[F]Date window that values ​​functional beauty

As a man with a strong sense of vanity, I understand that watches are not just tools, but have a presence similar to jewelry. After all, the adage that men shouldn’t wear other jewelry still rings true, especially when your partner receives another order confirmation message on your phone. But for me the functionality including the date window is still important.

I never leave the house without my watch. I sleep with my watch on most nights, and without it I feel naked. Despite the constant glare on my Apple screen from my phone and tablet, I check the time and date on my watch. Yes, unlike many watch enthusiasts these days, I enjoy the date window, but it’s the most overlooked complication. Some brands are good at including this feature rather than removing it for visual clarity, so consider this a celebration of a much-discussed but useful feature. please.

Grand Seiko SLGA025

Let’s start with an example of Grand Seiko’s no-compromise approach and the beautiful dial of the recently released SLGA025. Grand Seiko has become synonymous with scaled-up Japanese craftsmanship. Still, many of the finishes are still done by hand, making it a highly respected brand. In contrast to competitors such as Rolex, the brand shares how its watches and their components work and what stages they go through. The Japanese watchmaking ethos is almost obsessive, but we misunderstand it. Because Grand Seiko is designed to be a solid watch for everyday use, the cases on many models are too thick. Unfortunately for many collectors, this also includes a traditional date window that is not color matched.

Some may feel that the presence of a crisp white date wheel compromises the deep blue dial of the SLGA025, but I disagree. After all, legibility is paramount in a quality watch for everyday use, so I enjoy the perfection of the slightly beveled frame and large date numerals. Grand Seiko is a very reliable and beautiful watch, at least for me. This is my third time using Zaratsu polishing, and I am still impressed by its bright, perfectly flat feel. And it’s probably more reflective than most watch cases you’ve ever seen. In other words, it’s perfect as a daily driver, but if you’re a watch-loving idiot like me, you’ll save it for special occasions.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris knows how to serve up a colorful cocktail on your wrist, as seen on the bright and bright recycled dials of the recently updated Aquis Upcycled series. But the ProPilot X is a cleaner, more modern tool watch than the brand’s vintage-inspired or dive-capable Aquis series. Back in 2023, I wasn’t expecting the crazy pop of lime green on the dial art, and the date window threw me off course. The dial is a fiery bright pop of green, but the small date window at 6 o’clock looks very dark at the beginning of the month to match the color. So what is that red dot?

Yes, everyone, please take a look. You’ll see Kermit the Frog’s big, grinning face appear on the first of every month. I also respect the ProPilot X as a faithfully modern watch design with a very perfect bracelet. It is powered by the Oris Caliber 400 with a 5-day power reserve and is extremely lightweight thanks to its grade 2 titanium construction. Being a 39mm medium build, you might think that this crazy acid green pop would already be gone, but it wasn’t exclusive. Yes, the Kermit edition is still available in all its greenish glory. Yes, date windows can be both functional and fun, especially if they have a balanced aesthetic. Who would have thought that lime green would go so well with matte titanium?

Vacheron Constantin Historique 222

The 222 is more than just a watch. With a price tag of 72,000 euros, this product is more like an unattainable talisman for the glamorous jet set of the 70s. We’d all be happy if Vacheron released a slightly more accessible version of this all-gold holy grail. Still, for some reason I don’t think the Submariner will be affordable unless you count it as a daily beater and an occasional FPJourne. But this is all beside the point. As I keep reminding my collector friends, even if you don’t have the budget to buy the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, you can still enjoy it.

The 222 is all about delicate tones and gold charm. That’s why I’m posting it here. Its date window is very plain and even annoying for some people. But this Vacheron is a great example of a time when you needed a watch to get you through a busy day. So imagine checking out your lithe Vacheron Constantin 222 at the office for a 1977 calendar appointment. Then you’ll understand its value even more. The 222 would look cleaner without the date window, but its slim faceted frame fits the mood perfectly, and the date wheel matches the discreet brushed finish of the dial and the color of the T-shirt. There are only a select few performances that are perfect for these times, but even if they are unrealistic, I will note them down as my holy grail list.

Dior Chiffre Rouge

Before you can raise your virtual hand or don your Troll costume, the discussion about fashion brand watches is over. And Dior, along with the likes of Chanel and Louis Vuitton, have made great strides with the same innovative approach. Take the Chiffre Rouge as an example and you’ll see why this approach is so different from most watches. This is probably because the designer is not from our niche watch world. Chiffre Rouge is a timeless combination of deep black and red, with a stunning focus on the date window.

The angular case, large crown and red chronograph pusher at 4 o’clock are truly dramatic. To match the outfit, the pattern on the dial matches the pattern on the rubber strap. Think stealth-elegant rather than mission-capable. It’s a difficult balance, and Dior’s designers walk a tightrope between class and toughness. But let’s go back to the date window. The date window is circular and would be a silent presence on the dial if it weren’t for the red circle and single red numeral eyeball. 8. Including a single red number on a date wheel is nothing new. However, it often falls on the 31st, which marks the end of the month. The number 8 here is because this was the lucky number of the legendary Monsieur Dior.

laurent ferrier sport auto

Laurent Ferrier is a brand known for its pared-down elegance and smooth, pebble-like cases. So when Sport Auto was released, I moved away from that scent. I was shocked to see this take on a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, as it was completely different from the brand’s previous designs. But its unusual case shape gave it a sense of something new, unlike the well-known holy grail of the genre. The shock subsided, followed by intense admiration for today’s most beautiful date window. Given the price of a good car, it would be bold to use a Sport Auto as your daily driver. But that’s exactly where it excels.

The bracelet is loose and has a vintage feel. However, the spacing between the links is wider so there’s no hair pulling, and the surface is titanium with a sublime finish that only Ferrier can manage. The large and beautiful date window at 3 o’clock can even be called a piece de resistance. It has a soft blue dial balanced by discreet crosshairs. Ferrier’s influence on racing seems obvious, but we’re just speculating here. The deep slope that draws the eye into the diamond-shaped window resembles a racer’s NACA ducts. Instead of trying to hide it, Ferrier framed it in pinstripes. It brings to mind custom paint jobs on muscle cars and joins the crosshairs celebrating increased functionality. If any of my watch collecting friends ever tell me that a Sport Auto looks better without the date, I will never speak to them again. Until now.

Obvious omissions and honorable mentions

As I write this, I can practically feel the anger of an avid Rolex collector. They will question my omission of the brand’s ubiquitous Cyclops lenses. I think it’s on the same level as facial warts. I don’t mean any harm, and I have no grudge against Rolex, but I’m concerned that the numbers are bloated and look a little distorted. No, I’d rather see a clear, color-matched, discreet square without magnification.

And what if it appears at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock, like the TAG Heuer Dato reissue? This tasteful dark green model is the new Glassbox version of the OG Dato 45. However, it has been modernized with a bold move to keep the date disc clean and white. If you know Heuer, you’ll know this right away, but if you’re new to the watch hobby, you’ll probably have to do a lot of searching. Cheeky swaps and single registers triumph on sheer audacity alone. I would happily rock this watch.

Fratelli, what about you? Are you a fan of clean dial construction or a functional aesthetic? Let us know in the comments. Let’s start the discussion!