Lists — Don’t you just love lists? Well, not really. I don’t want to sound like the Grinch, but the avalanche of end-of-the-year lists that come with the holidays – music, movies, sports – doesn’t exactly make me feel warm and fuzzy. The feeling of memories. I prefer to look ahead. I’m more interested in future watches than in regurgitating watches from the past. Despite my objections, I present “Best Watches of 2024 – Rex’s Picks.” I chose watches from Omega, Echo/Neutra, and Tudor that instantly make my heart skip a beat when I put them on my wrist. Yes, this Grinch has a heart. How about that?
I’ve already been brutally honest about my year-end list, so I think it’s best to keep it that way. The most memorable watches have been on my wrist for a while, so it didn’t take long for me to compile a list of the best watches of 2024. It’s easy to find the three most memorable watches of the year because they almost leave a physical mark. While writing about these three watches, a few others came to mind that are worth a brief mention.
The Best Watches of 2024 — Starting with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Silver Surfer”
One of the dangers when creating a best-of list at the end of the year is that short-term memory takes over. January was 11 months ago, which feels like a lifetime ago, and even Watches and Wonders is now a thing of the past. Fortunately, long-term memory, with the help of the Internet (first and foremost the archives of the Fratello site), brings the past year to life. That said, I can’t resist choosing the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Silver Surfer”. Until this Seamaster was released, I thought Omega’s year-end model would be the white-dial Speedmaster Professional. Still, seeing the undated Seamaster 300M with its vertically brushed steel dial and “naked” titanium bezel made me cross Speedy off my list.
Monochrome yet dynamic, the Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 210.30.42.20.06.002 (€7,200) is a mishmash of style without functionality, but it works great as a stylish sports watch. The predominant gray appearance has a certain energetic brightness, as different finishes reflect and absorb light differently. The watch’s many angular details show off the original 1993 design, while being completely modern. Yes, the overall design is definitely 1990s. The domed sapphire crystal and mesh bracelet link it to an era much earlier, and perhaps that’s exactly what makes this Seamaster the quintessential 2024 timepiece.
You get a state-of-the-art METAS-certified in-house developed movement, superior finishing and manufacturing quality, and a fashionable look. That said, the gray dial is surprisingly easy to read thanks to the large indexes and unique openworked sword-shaped hands filled with white Super-LumiNova. These stand out very clearly against the vertically brushed background. It’s a nice looking and comfortable watch. That’s not a bad thing, and it has historical significance.
More Shades of Gray: Echo/Neutra Rivanera
No, dress watches are not over. On the contrary, microbrands like Celica and Denison – nimble brands that are acutely aware of what modern watch fans want and need – are showing that small, elegant watches are still valuable. I’m proving it. Further proof that chic sophistication is alive and well is Echo/Neutra Ribanera. According to the brand, the watch took two years to develop. And it shows. With a gray or black dial, the Ribanera is a rectangular tank-like piece housed in a grade 5 titanium case measuring 27 mm wide, 40 mm long and 5.9 mm thick.
This sinuous creature combines an Art Deco dial with an angular case in a similarly finished contemporary material. The case has a fine-grained sandblasted finish that contrasts with polished edges. One of the features that put Rivanera on my list is the mirror-polished bevels that contrast nicely with the subtle texture of the matte sandblasted finish.
Another great thing about the Echo/Neutra Rivanera is the presence of the hand-wound ETA/Peseux 7001 caliber. The use of a 2.5 mm thick mechanical movement rather than a quartz one elevates the watch from a cool watch to a luxury watch. Can you pay me 1,490 euros? I think it’s worth it.
More than just a watch, it’s an experience: Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition”
Tudor launched the Pelagos FXD Chrono Pro ‘Cycling Edition’ (€5,390) in May and I road tested this carbon watch in July. The best way to test a chronograph was to spin it for long periods of time in harsh weather conditions, from Bern to Zermatt. The Chasing Cancellara Bern-Zermatt bicycle event I participated in is a 310km endurance race in which participants overcome 5,000 meters of climbing. Fabian Cancellara is a Swiss cycling legend and current owner of Tudor Pro Cycling, and his endurance racing has brought together the worlds of cycling and watches in the most spectacular way.
The 43 x 13.2 mm lightweight carbon cycling chrono comes with an integrated fabric strap. The watch joined my wrist as I rode through the Gantrisch Nature Park, over the passes of Mittelberg and Col du Pillon into lower Valais, and finally arrived in Zermatt in the shadow of the famous Matterhorn. I did. This watch proved to be the perfect companion with its fixed strap bar, comfortable strap, and lightweight 100 meter water resistant case. In a downpour on the way up to Zermatt, my cycling computer was “submerged”, but my watch was not damaged. The clock told me the time, which in turn helped me press the pedals. Yes, I have a functional connection with this watch and that’s why it’s on this list. The fact that it has an automatic chronograph caliber MT5813 with a 70-hour power reserve and a sporty, classy design that avoids falling into the trap of gimmicks also helped.
Honorable mention
These are not the best watches of 2024 in my opinion, but the other four are worth mentioning. Start with Denison ALD’s Natural Stone Tiger Eye (€637.95). Echo/Nutra Like Rivanera, it shows that elegance is not dead, but very much alive. Audemars Piguet proved this year that it hasn’t lost its adventurous side with the launch of the (RE)Master 02 Selfwinding (€47,400). This is a limited edition of 250 pieces made of sand gold, a new 18K gold alloy, and pays homage to the brutalist-inspired watch created in 1960 (model 5159BA). If I’m invited to the Met Gala in 2025, this is the watch I want on my wrist. If not, you can wear it on your birthday.
The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar (CHF 150,000 incl. VAT) is impressive in every way and represents a milestone in the development of perpetual calendars. This is a watch that should definitely be added to your year-end list. And since I’m a PRX fan, the stealthy, lightweight, high-tech Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon (1,075 euros) also deserves my attention.
But what do you think about my selections and honorable mentions? Also, could you list your favorite watch of 2024 or your wish for 2025? Either way, you can do so in the comments .