I can’t believe that 2024 will be over in just one day. But the past few weeks have gone by so quickly that in retrospect, it’s been a big year for watches. As per our current tradition, the Fratello team will take turns selecting the best watches of 2024 and sharing our favorites with you. I had the privilege of playing against you today. So, with a quick word of context from me, let’s take a look at my top four favorite releases of 2024.
To be honest, it feels a little redundant to say at this point, but just a quick note for those who aren’t that familiar with the series. The watches on this list are just a very thin and subjective piece of the pie. Countless releases made this year. Opinions may vary, but these are the watches I can’t stop thinking about. These are my four favorite watches released within the past 12 calendar months. This may also be the exact release chronological order. I’ve also included an additional (and slightly self-indulgent) section with a few honorable mentions. Well, with that out of the way, let’s get straight to the point.
Best Watches of 2024 — Downsized Doxa Sub 200T
What should I say? I’ve never needed more Doxa watches in my life. The brand’s catalog included a selection of different dial colors that you’d already want to buy. Now, the dilemma extends to the question of size. I’ve said it before, but it’s worth repeating. I consider myself an imminent owner of Doxa. It’s not a question of “if” but “when.” The problem is, you want to get your first purchase right, but when you look at a brand’s website, you see so many options that you start considering a few models, but end up feeling overwhelmed and unable to complete the purchasing task. That means leaving it for another day. .
That said, the Sub 200T’s sweet-spot case dimensions (39mm x 41.5mm x 10.7mm) are almost appealing. Combined with the attractive price of just 1,590 euros for the bracelet (1,550 euros for the rubber), this diver has become widely wearable, putting Doxa’s classic design within reach of most people . If there’s one “but” in the equation, it’s the 18mm lug spacing. I don’t really care for it, since it’s essentially a reproportion of a vintage one, but it still makes those of us who stock up on 20mm straps cry tears of defeat. Nevertheless, my experience with these watches earlier this year confirmed that the bracelet is so comfortable that I rarely want to replace it with something else. The Doxa Sub 200T is a winner in my book and deserves a spot on my list.
Bright light in the dark: Sinn U50 SL
Joining my list is a quiet release from everyone’s favorite tool watch brand from Frankfurt am Main, Sinn. I’m, of course, referring to the U50 SL, which debuted as part of a multi-watch release (including the equally cool U50 Hydro model). Finished with a black DLC coating on the brand’s 41mm diver’s watch, this model features a luminous dial upgrade, eliminating the red and white found on the standard U50 dial and hands in favor of darker contrasting elements. We are hiring. It’s a monochrome element that gives the 500m capable dive watch a seriously tactical and serious feel. But the brightly lit dial lends just the right amount of no-nonsense. This is my kind of nonsense.
For more information on the U50 SL, check out Jorg’s introductory article here. I’m on record as saying that Sinn (along with Doxa) is one of the brands that will eventually find a home in my collection. And the U50 SL could be a strong candidate for that. A look at Gin’s website shows that some of the 500 produced may still be available, so it’s not too late to consider that possibility. For 3,110 euros, you can get the undisputed best luminous dial diver of 2024.
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT
This doesn’t need much explanation. These days, Tudor is not a brand that disappoints. In fact, it can be said that they have had quite a string of attractive releases. The Pelagos FXD GMT is exactly that. And although my heart belongs to the black dial FXD “USN” released in 2023, this year’s Tudor fixed bar novelty still deserves a spot on the list of best watches of 2024. Worth it. If you want to read more, check out Jorg’s article. Click here for practical review. At 4,630 euros, the Pelagos FXD GMT is not the most expensive watch on my list. But this watch certainly has a lot of tricks up its sleeve, and together with my next watch, it will form a perfect two-watch collection.
Omega Speedmaster pilot takes to the skies with flight qualification
Looks like we’ve saved the best for last: the uniquely cool Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Talk about a breath of fresh air into the Speedmaster family. Coming on the heels of the new First Omega in Space and the white dial Speedmaster Professional, this was my Speedy highlight of 2024. Many of us walked away after seeing the military-only version of this watch in late summer or early fall. I’m hungry for more. How did U.S. Air Force pilots have so much fun? After all, exclusivity didn’t last forever. It didn’t take long for Omega to deliver and create a civilian version of the Pilot’s Chronograph for us all to enjoy.
This two-register Speedmaster is reminiscent of the Flightmaster models of the 1970s, except for the use of brighter colors on the dial. For those who already own a classic Moonwatch, this watch can easily exist in one collection. Because both meet completely different conditions. And although the Pilot Flight Qualified model is quite expensive in terms of price (10,300 euros), I must confess that I found myself doing some mental gymnastics to justify the purchase. Therefore, it is no surprise that it takes an honorable place on this year’s list. If you want to know more about this latest Speedmaster, check out RJ’s article and video here.
Best Watches of 2024 — Honorable Mention
As promised, here is the somewhat self-indulgent “honorable mention” portion of my list. This is an encore for the watch media world. That’s it for the list, but you know there’s more. So there’s no need to keep cheering. Here are a few more watches that we think are worth celebrating as newfound material beings. Without rummaging through the ever-expanding thicket of poetry, let me list them (in no particular order). Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49, 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Celica 1174 Parade, VPC Type 37HW.
And of these five additional watches, only the VPC was available for purchase, but with my infinite means, I would have happily owned each of these watches this year. Masu. Could you have added more to this section? Absolutely. Since I started writing for Fratello, I can’t remember a year in which I’ve been able to list so many personal highlights. But boiling it down to its best is a good exercise in thoughtful restraint.
final thoughts
All in all, this is a big year for watches, and I know this list could easily double. However, I will call you here. These are my favorite watches of 2024. Now let’s look at next year and what it brings us. Stay tuned to Fratello as we bring you all the news. By the way, what are your favorites this year? And what do you think of my choices? Please share your thoughts and favorites in the comments section below.