zach blas
Grand Seiko is known for releasing a ton of watches every year, for better or worse. Some may find it overwhelming, but as a certified Grand Seiko enthusiast, I just think it’s great to be able to explore quite a few new products throughout the year, and 2024 was no exception. . Unlike Rolex, there were so many strong debuts that it was hard to narrow it down to five favorites. So, while there are many other Grand Seiko releases of 2024 that I like in addition to those listed below, this selection is my (and the T+T team’s) pick of five favorites.
Grand Seiko SBGH341 Sakura Hidden
The Grand Seiko SBGH341 was a notable and well-received release this year, as it uses the first modern 62GS case in 38mm size, along with the debut SBGH343. This is the Goldilocks diameter for many buyers, and 38mm is far less common in the current Grand Seiko catalogue. This is a welcome mid-size evolution. Powered by the 9S85 Hi-Beat Automatic, the SBGH341 and SBGH343 were also Grand Seiko’s first mechanical watches with a 62GS case made from high-strength titanium.
The total length of the 100 meter water resistant watch is 38 mm in diameter, 12.9 mm thick and 44.7 mm lug to lug length. SBGH341 is my pick of the pair as it offers the fan-favorite cherry pink dial for the first time on a mechanical 62GS case watch. There’s also another light green dial later on the list. However, if you don’t agree with our choice, both are the same price. Price: $7,700
Grand Seiko SBGY035 Karasawa
The Grand Seiko SBGY035, released in August, earns its place on this list due to its striking reddish-brown dial. Grand Seiko’s dials are best in class, and the brand has combined its lock pattern (seen on the SBGA413 Harubun) with a red color that I haven’t seen other brands use. And with Grand Seiko’s curvaceous elegance collection, featuring a hand-wound spring drive movement with a power reserve indicator on the bridge, the dial shines uninterrupted by complications.
The Spring Drive LE 20th Anniversary model wasn’t all that limited at 700 pieces, but if you go to the Grand Seiko U.S. online boutique, you’ll see that it’s sold out, at least online. But try your luck in-store. You might find it. Price: $8,500
Grand Seiko SLGW005 (and SLGW004)
It was really cool to see Grand Seiko debut a vintage-inspired limited edition model this year, as the company seems to be focusing and thinking forward with the development of its next-generation Evolution 9 Series . Reviving the 1968 4520-8000 45GS, the SLGW005 was one of two modern-day configurations that brought back the 45GS case shape.
While the SLGW004 debuted in 18K yellow gold, the SLGW005 features a near-vintage 38.8 mm diameter steel case. This is approximately 2.3 mm larger than the 4520-8000 45GS that inspired it. It’s also about 1.6mm thicker at 10.4mm, but a welcome trade-off is the use of Grand Seiko’s latest generation 9SA4 high-beat movement. The 9SA4 is a hand-wound version of the automatic 9SA5, which also features the brand’s dual-impulse escapement, but features a Wagtail-inspired Japanese click spring that enhances the sensation you feel when winding the watch by hand.
From the double-signed dial faithfully stylized to the ’60s model to the Seiko-signed pin buckle, this one ticks all the vintage notes Grand Seiko fans covet, opening the door to even more vintage revivals. I hope it opens. Unfortunately, it is my understanding that Grand Seiko has no intention of releasing any more 45GS references at this time. Fortunately, it appears to be available on Grand Seiko’s website for the time being, albeit in a limited edition of 1,200 pieces. If you don’t feel the vintage connection, you can always try the Evolution 9 SLGW002/SLGW003 duo. Price: $9,700 (SLGW005), $30,000 (SLGW004)
Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genmitani
Every time Grand Seiko introduces a completely new dial texture, fans take notice. Both in the Grand Seiko fanboy niche and the broader collecting community, it was clear from the start that the brand was sure to have a winner with the SLGH021 Genbi Valley, which once again has a dial inspired by nature. .
The idea behind the dial is that it was designed to represent the Iwai River and the rocks that surround it. In layman’s terms, cutting through the sea of green new products is a luscious light green that marks the unique hue of this year’s certified dial color.
The automatic 9SA5 Hi-Beat movement is housed in a 100 meter water-resistant Ever-Brilliant Steel Evolution 9 case with a diameter of 40 mm, a thickness of 11.7 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 47 mm, and is mounted on a matching bracelet. This limited edition of 1,000 pieces was released in June and sold out long ago, at least on Grand Seiko USA’s online platform. Price: $10,400
Grand Seiko SLGA025 Atera Blue
Perhaps the Spring Drive to complement the high-beat Genbi Valley, the SLGA025 Atera Blue struck a similar chord with a twist on the popular blue and green dial. Its emerald-like appearance blends blue and green notes to reveal an unusual final color. I’ve only seen this in brands like H. Moser & Co.’s Blue Lagoon watch and perhaps Audemars Piguet.
The 9SA5 is an 80-hour high-beat automatic, while the 9RA2 Spring Drive has a 120-hour power reserve, indicated on the movement rather than the dial. The Shinshu Frost decoration, inspired by Studio Shinshu’s winter snowy landscape, creates a slightly inorganic atmosphere. However, up close, the texture is rich yet high-quality, contrasting nicely with the diamond-cut bevel of the rotor and the outer circumference of the center bridge. Watchmakers must be extremely careful not to scratch delicate surfaces during assembly.
Not only is the SLGA025 the exact opposite in terms of movement technology, but it also visually reverses its properties, with a case and bracelet made from the brand’s high-strength titanium. However, both the SLGH021 and SLGA025 were big hits on Watchstagram, each with a unique dial, while also being superior products in terms of materials and movement. Also note that unlike SLGH021, SLGA025 is not a limited edition. Price: $10,500
Honorable Mention: Grand Seiko SLGT005 Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
It’s a heartbeat… I mean, come on. It’s very ambitious and exclusive, so we tried to focus on other works. Price: $365,000
