[f]

Christopher Ward has the trick to surprise us. When you think you have the handle in that direction, the brand finds a way to shift the gear. The 12 collections were already strong competitors in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre. Now with the new 12 660, Christopher Ward shows that Synness games can also be played.

I only looked at press releases and images from the brand, but I thought I was sharing Fratelli, which shares some thoughts with you at the time of release. My first reaction was simple curiosity. At just 6.6mm thick, you can see this slim, but still feel like a proper 12? Or does slim down necessarily mean a character compromise?

Slim case with sharp details

The answer is in detail. Christopher Ward didn’t just shave millimeters from existing cases, he didn’t call it a day. The design team rethinks proportions from scratch. With a diameter of 38mm and length of 43.3mm, the 12 660 remains true to wearable dimensions. The bezel is slightly wider than the other versions, and is a clever move that adds visual balance to the thin profile of the wafer.

Finishing is the most important thing here. A mixture of linear brushing, polished bevels and sandblast accents keeps the surface vibrant. Stopping an ultra-thin watch from looking flat has always been a challenge, and Christopher Ward seems to have found a good rhythm of alternating textures. The case appears to be lean, but crucially, it doesn’t seem to be lively. This approach worked incrediblely with the recently launched C12 Loco (I bought it), so the same approach also pays dividends here.

Matching bracelet

Bracelets often disappoint thin watches. If the clasp is thicker than the case, a jarring step will be created on the wrist. Christopher Ward worked on this by designing a new bracelet with a 2.9mm thick single piece link. The clasp is 4.2mm in size and the push button mechanism is neatly integrated. This means that the bracelet doesn’t cover the case. Instead, it flows into it in real harmony.

On the wrist, you need to translate into a watch that feels like one continuous piece, rather than a case perched on a bulky bracelet. For watches in this price range, it’s impressive engineering.

12 660 features a peeled back dial

Christopher Ward takes a minimalist approach to the dial, and the results are impressive. The coarse texture is under the clear lacquer, giving a crisp finish that avoids the plastic luster of cheaper treatments. The index and hand combine brushes and polished surfaces for a clean and easy-to-read look.

The most notable omission is the hand of seconds. There is no date either. These are intentional choices and are tailored to the 12 660 characters. The design leaves a balanced, gentle-looking watch without the visual confusion that collides with its slim profile. This is a bold move for brands that often lean towards practical features for daily use, but we feel it here.

The color name adds a playful twist. BLK, WHT, GRN, and BLU are vowel light labels that reflect stored attitudes. The black DLC version in particular gives a visually extreme thinness. I think that’s what model collectors will talk about most, but if you want versatility, the Steel Brassylette version looks just as attractive.

Reworked movement

Slim watches can only exist in the right movement, and Christopher Ward once again relied on Cerrata. The 12 660 uses the SW210-1, but it’s far from stock. The brand has opened the train bridge with skeletalization, rhodium plating and added brush and diamond finishes. Through the display caseback, it should look more refined than most competitors’ calibers in this price range.

Other small touches like the Sunray-Brushed Crown and the wheels of the Ratchet emphasize attention to detail. Christopher Ward has worked with some of the same suppliers who helped with the award-winning Bell Cant, suggesting a stronger partnership with professional finishers. It will only be useful for the brand in future projects.

The manual winding diameter bends at a 4Hz frequency, has a power reserve of 45 hours, and holds time within the allowable range of ±20 seconds per day. These are not groundbreaking numbers, but ending efforts will increase the movement beyond normal.

Living in thinness

What I am struggling with about the 12 660 is that Christopher Ward isn’t trying to position it as part of the ultra-thin weapons race. CEO Mike France clearly says that keeping this under the glass isn’t new, but rather a watch worn every day. That distinction is important.

I have dealt with the true ultra-thin works of Piaget and Bvlgari, which, while noteworthy, often find fragile. The Twelve 660 aims to provide elegance without fragility. This is a completely different proposition. It is a watch designed to slip under the cuffs and disappear when you want it, and can still carry enough wrist presence when you don’t.

Price and positioning

The price of this watch feels in line with Christopher Ward’s usual strategy. Steel models start at 1,250 pounds on the strap and 1,395 pounds on the bracelet. The DLC black version adds a small premium and is top of the bracelet for £1,495. This will be placed between the regular steel 12 and the titanium COSC model.

This is an interesting middle ground. For many, this decision depends on whether thinness is worthy of a function trade-off. With no seconds or dates, the 12 660 is more about the purity of the design than the actual complications. However, for collectors who value clean lines and comfort, this could be a 12 model.

There is good news for our buyers too. Christopher Ward confirmed it has rewind the 29% tariff that came into effect earlier this month. CEO and co-founder Mike France explained that North America is now Christopher Ward’s biggest market, so the brand was researching how to make watches more accessible. The sudden increase in tariffs accelerated these plans, and the company managed to absorb the costs. As a result, US prices are now back in July 2025, and in some cases they are slightly lower. For customers on that side of the Atlantic, the 12 660 arrives with a little extra reason to celebrate.

Final Thoughts on Christopher Ward 12 660

Christopher Ward is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, and the brand shows no signs of slowing down. Although Bel Cant recognized it internationally, the 12 have quietly built a loyal fan base. 12 660 adds another layer to that story. It’s not the flashiest release of 2025, but it doesn’t have to be. Instead, it shows brands that are learning to refine as much as innovation. Christopher Ward created a mature, confident watch by focusing on slimness, balance and detail.

I look forward to meeting in person and finding out whether that sense of balance goes from the image to the wrist. At least on paper, a 12-of-660 appears to be a reminder that in reality there can be fewer. Please let us know what you think about it in the comments below.