DC Hanney
We at T+T are big fans of Nivada Grenchen, and for good reason: Not only does the legendary name boast an extensive catalog of iconic references with authentic history, but today’s Nivada offers collectors that classic look and rock-solid functionality at an affordable price point.
Arshuddin K. Bilimoria has spent most of his life collecting vintage watches, with a collection numbering in the hundreds. An avid historian and archivist, he is also an author and has written two books on vintage Nivada Grenchen watches. Below is his fascinating history of one of Nivada’s most iconic models, the Antarctic.
When it was introduced in the early 1950s, the Nivada Aquamatic (waterproof + automatic) was widely regarded as the company’s most reliable model. Nivada used this as the basis for the Antarctic series, which was introduced in 1954 and 1955. Specifically, the Antarctic series was advertised as follows:
“This is the watch sent to Antarctica as part of the US Navy’s Operation Deep Freeze. It was submerged in icy water multiple times, crashed into ice, and plunged into deep snow, yet maintained steady accuracy everywhere man and machine can go. Waterproof, automatic, shock-proof, and anti-magnetic, the Nivada Antarctic can withstand any abuse, anywhere!”
The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic was the first watch sent to the Antarctic. It was delivered to Admiral Richard Byrd and his US Navy crew in 1955-1956, taking them on the Antarctic Expedition as part of Operation Deep Freeze I. This model has earned a place in horological history thanks to its extraordinary success. However, until relatively recently (before production resumed), it was one of the most underrated expedition watches of all time.
Doyle Dane Bernbach, a well-known New York City advertising agency, was responsible for the first Antarctic ad, which featured a man smoking a cigarette and wearing the original Antarctic hat. The man in the picture was model Peter German (wearing a fake beard), and apparently the ad was so striking that Nivada approved it and began showing it internationally. This infuriated Cuban strongman Fulgencio Batista, who believed that German bore an unpleasant resemblance to Fidel Castro, whom he was fighting against at the time. As a result, the ad was no longer shown in Cuba.
The first model of the Antarctic had the longest production run, lasting over eight years. This model had a strong personality all its own. It was decorated with huge applied numerals and markers in the Art Deco style. The outer edges of the faceted markers had luminous plots arranged in a complementary V-shape, but behind the 3, 6, 9, and 12, they were arranged in a straight line. The case size was 35mm without the crown, with a thick bezel and flat chamfered lugs, and a few cases had embossed casebacks. Most were powered by ETA caliber 1256 movements, which were later replaced by calibers 2375, 23XX, and 24XX. In contrast to the typefaces used in the later revisions, the typeface employed was linear and well-spaced. Nivada followed up on the success of this model with the launch of models such as the Antarctic II, III, IV, V, and VI. In the 1950s, the Antarctic developed a number of models, as well as a divers series.
Above are two examples of early production models. After the watch went to Antarctica with Admiral Byrd and his crew, the name “ANTARCTIC” was printed on the dial. On the right is a rare example of a pre-expedition Antarctic. In addition to the original lineage, there were numerous models in the Antarctic series. There was a wide variety of watches, including divers, dress watches, and explorer watches. Some were chronometer certified. Cases were made of solid gold, gold plated with a stainless steel caseback, or stainless steel. The Nivada Grenchen movement of the model imported by Croton for the US market was engraved with the COW code. There were a great many watch companies engaged in this activity at the time.
From 1955-1956 “Operation Deep Freeze I”, to “Operation Deep Freeze II”, “Operation Deep Freeze III”, etc., the United States has been code-named “Operation Deep Freeze” for a series of operations conducted in Antarctica. The name was proposed by Admiral Richard Byrd. The International Geophysical Year (IGY) that took place in 1957-1958 was the main impetus for Deep Freeze I. The IYG was a joint effort conducted by 40 countries to carry out various scientific research from the Arctic to the Antarctic and various places in between. A group of countries including the United States, New Zealand, France, Great Britain, Japan, Norway, Chile, Argentina, and the Soviet Union agreed to go to Antarctica, the least explored and most inhospitable region on Earth. The main objective of their expedition was to gain knowledge and study the Antarctic hydrography and weather system, as well as glacial movement and marine life. The United States Navy was tasked with supporting the American scientists in charge of part of the IGY research. The command position of the expedition was given to Rear Admiral Richard E. Byrd, who had served on four previous Antarctic expeditions. Task Force 43, formed in 1955 and commanded by Rear Admiral George J. Dufek, was responsible for providing logistical support for the mission. During Operation Deep Freeze I, which took place from November 1955 to April 1956, a permanent research station was established, laying the foundation for subsequent operations involving more in-depth research.
One of the most fascinating features of this watch is the Nivada Antarctic medallion, embedded into the caseback. The medallion depicts the scenario of Operation Deep Freeze I, providing a time-traveling experience. The engraved aircraft tells its story: After a 12.5-hour flight from Christchurch, New Zealand, a Douglas C-124 Globemaster II, nicknamed “Miss North Carolina”, became the first aircraft to land on Antarctica on October 21, 1956.
In 2018, after seeing the original brand’s increasing popularity among vintage fans, the pair set out to revive Nivada Grenchen in their home country of Switzerland. French entrepreneur Guillaume Reyde, founder of the brand William L. 1985, established himself in the watch industry by creating and manufacturing affordable vintage-style models with automatic movements. His partner, Rémi Chablat, made his name as CEO of the Montrichard Group, a parts supplier and watch manufacturer with a particular focus on efficiently producing watches for smaller brands and private labels.
Chablat and the Montrichard Group were able to obtain the licensing rights to use the Nivada Grenchen name and discontinued models from Nivada Swiss, made possible by an existing business relationship with the Mexican owner of the Nivada Swiss brand, so Reyde and Chablat embarked on a mission to give collectors exactly what they wanted, effectively reviving Nivada Grenchen in 2020 by reintroducing three of its most historically significant watches: the Chronomaster, Depthmaster, and Antarctic.
Arshuddin’s third book, “A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches,” can be ordered through his Instagram page.
