Rolex Submariner Ref. After spending time in. 5508 and A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I have another opportunity today to explore my personal Holy Grail clock. Yes, life is a good thing when you have special access to some of the best watches in the world. This time, I’m a 1978 Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1a.
Again, the stakes are high. Will spending time with Nautilus cement it as one of my greatest favorites of all time, or do you lean under pressure? Let’s see how we worked together!
Original Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe introduced Nautilus in 1976 in this reference 3700/1a. This was a bold watch on any scale, with a diameter of 40mm (ear-to-ear 42mm), a strong integrated bracelet design, and, lastly, a “jumbo” 40mm (ear-to-ear 42mm), a powerful integrated bracelet design, priced at 3,100 USD, and a powerful integrated bracelet design. Such a sum of money for steel watches was previously unprecedented and converted into today’s money, worth around USD 17,000. Patek even boasted in an advertisement at the time that “one of the most expensive watches in the world is made of steel.”
Ardmars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus
Gérald Genta drafted a rough sketch of the Nautilus on the napkin in a few minutes. Genta’s pencils were just one of many things that tied the Nautilus to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, introduced in 1972. Royal Oaks showed the Swiss brand’s escape from the quartz crisis with its ultimate luxury, but Nautilus examined its approach in many ways. The similarities are impressive. It comes with a diving helmet-inspired RO and a porthole-inspired Nautilus, a shared Jaeger-Lecoultre caliber, an integrated bracelet and a blue dial.
These two Titans paved the way for the new luxury Swiss watch industry. In a way, Nautilus is Cristiano Ronaldo of the Royal Oak Lionel Messi. The competition drove both to higher heights.
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1a
So, what was this original Nautilus about? Interestingly, the 3700/1A featured a two-part case held together with “ear” screws. This means that the porthole design is not just an aesthetic gimmick, but also an inspiration for the construction of the case. The movement had to be loaded from the top, which was enabled by the stems of the split crown. This and the slim profile of the caliber provide a larger overall case thickness. The bracelet is well-knownly integrated with the case for a more natural flowing overall design. On 3700/1a, the bracelet tapers to 16mm with the clasp, and later versions to 14mm.
Inside, checks Ultra Thin’s automatic caliber 28-255C, the Patek version of the Jaeger-Lecoultre Caliber 920. The movement is 2.45mm x 28mm thick. JLC has provided the Ebauche version not only for AP and Patek, but also for Vacheron Constantin. With a 19,800VPH frequency and a power reserve of less than 2.5mm thick, we have checked all the boxes of the Holy Trinity.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus featured a raised dial with what many call the “Teak-Deck pattern.” Patek’s artisans hand carved these ridges and added a subtle sunburst effect and blue lacquer on top. The simple, rectangular white gold applied index contrasts with the round baton handset. Such small design quirks give the Nautilus character.
First time I’m dealing with the original Nautilus
The first thing I noticed when I picked up a 3700/1A in front of me was its size. Even by today’s standards, this is certainly a jumbo watch. However, unlike many of its modern counterparts, it wears that proportion very elegantly. The wide dolphin ears taperely into a very elegant bracelet. The beautiful slimness of the case and the subtle elements of the dial provide a formal, understated quality that perfectly balances your stately height.
This design beautifully combines subtle details with a rigorous, bold statement. For example, its wide flat bezel adds assertions to a much more refined dial sitting inside it. Flatness is amplified by the proximity of the dial to the sapphire crystal. We’ve become accustomed to taller hand stacks and even taller rehouts, which seem endlessly refined.
Compared to Royal Oaks, the Nautilus feels mature, but not radical. Genta softened some of the watch’s bold statements with rounded elements. At first glance, you may feel that these are randomly sprinkled on your hands, as opposed to time markers. In careful inspection, the entire watch balances softness and softness through a rounded (or angled round?) bezel and a soft rectangular central link. Even more than the photos, the design sings to me when I work with the watch.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Wearing Ref. 3700/1a
I was fortunate to be able to roughly share the wrist circumference with the owner of this Nautilus. The watch confirmed my previous discoveries as I slid my hands down with the clasp. I know there are very few watches that pair boldness with elegance perfectly. That stance is ordered without being overwhelmed. Its appearance is assertive, but it’s far from awful. It felt right away. “This might be my one watch,” I thought.
Reference 5711/1a
Later versions of Patek Philippe Nautilus now have a more matching design. Usually I mean this in a positive sense. However, in this case I don’t. The legendary Nautilus ref. For example, 5711/1a has become thicker and wider. Bold hands and markers were thrown in to make them look more aggressive. Overall, it didn’t seem a bit nasty. In theory, it should cure the divided personality of 3700/1A. But in reality, it abandoned the delicate balance and upgraded it as a statement of wealth rather than a masterclass in watch design.
Interestingly, walking around this roughly 100,000 euro (in today’s market), Nautilus feels normal because there is no better word. There is no suggestion here that it is one of the most coveted luxury items in the world. It feels like a very nice and stylish vintage watch. Frankly, the glossy new Rolex Submariner, which costs around 1/10, screams far more loudly. This is speaking for the Nautilus, but I wonder if we all went crazy. I like it. I mean, I really like it! But under any circumstances I will not drop this kind of money into one.
Herd mentality
Of course, the above implies a group mentality and a group idea within the watch community. Collectively, a handful of watches are “what you need to get,” we see massive inflation and unhealthy worship of them. I am fully aware that I am involved in it and waxing poeticly about the Nautilus on my forearm.
Similarly, it is impossible to see the watch through the lens of its historical connection. Some watches didn’t turn their heads until the enthusiast community jumped on a collective basis. “In my time you couldn’t pass them on, but now you want everything,” there is a general comment about such a watch. It makes me wonder how hype forms our views.
Let me add this in the end. I have handled almost every integrated bracelet luxury watch on the market, but I don’t think they’re all spoofing Royal Oak and Nautilus. But with Nautilus in hand, I’m looking at why this and RO are OG in the genre. A very few, including Patek Philippe itself, were able to make something as good as this. I simply find it beautiful on another level, but it has quirks like a marker that is too small and bright white date opening. Sometimes the quirk works and gives a more interesting overall look and feel. Do I even need to mention Cubitus? Ah, hell… I just did.
Some people may share my feelings, but many of you will disagree. Original Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1a!
