As always, there were many amazing watches on display at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. One of the highlights for many was the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. It is the second watch from the revived Daniel Roth brand and is based on last year’s first release. As we discussed in our introductory article on the watch, the rose gold version of the Tourbillon looked even more stylish than last year’s Tourbillon Script. Above all, it proves that Daniel Roth’s revival has been accomplished with class and meticulous care.
Just a few weeks ago, I left my introductory article eager to try out the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold on my wrist. I wanted to know if the rose gold version was the better of the two models released so far. Additionally, and perhaps more importantly, I wanted to know if my love for Daniel Roth would be resurrected as well. Daniel Roth’s work has been special to me ever since I first became interested in watches in the early 2000s. The magical combination of highly recognizable style and Roth watchmaking has always fascinated me. As you can see, I was excited to find out more.
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold Overview
First, let’s take a quick look back at the watch. If you want to learn more, we recommend reading our introductory article from two weeks ago. In this article, we’ll focus on the experience of seeing two Daniel Roth Tourbillons side-by-side. Additionally, we’ll talk about some small but important updates that contribute greatly to the pleasure of wearing a new Daniel Roth watch. There’s a lot more that went into this project than just reviving a name; it’s an attempt to do justice to the excellence of design and watchmaking.
The new Tourbillon Rose Gold comes in a 5N rose gold case that is 35.5mm wide, 38.6mm long and 9.2mm thick. This case respects the original design of the stunning double ellipse case that I fell in love with in the early 2000s, when this case design had already been on the market since its introduction in the late 1980s.
Compared to the original design, LVMH designers optimized the case’s fit on the wrist by positioning the lugs at a downward angle, and also slightly updated the design by moving the distinctive “bump” to the center of the side (whereas on the original case, the bump was located two-thirds of the way down the side).
Using influences from the past to create something better
The design perfectly expresses the character and flair of the original, but has been optimized down to the last detail for a more contemporary feel and greater comfort: the entire Fratello team who tried on the watches were impressed with the size, balance and fit.
Despite its relatively small size, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold sits well on the wrist. The relatively large 20mm lug spacing and the beautiful light brown calfskin strap contribute greatly to this presence. Furthermore, the improved ergonomics ensure that the watch sits comfortably on the wrist.
Dial details tell a story
LVMH designers have brilliantly recreated the dial design of the original Daniel Roth Tourbillon watch: early versions of the Double Face Tourbillon ref. C187 from the late 1980s came with a silver or grey dial with a Clous de Paris guilloché finish, which is why last year’s edition features a yellow gold dial with the same pattern.
Later models had a linear guilloche pattern, which the new rose gold model also has. The original dials from the 1980s and 1990s were primarily silver and grey, but the new rose gold dial adds more depth to the style. I think it looks better than the dials on the vintage versions.
If it came down to choosing a favorite between the two new models, I’d stick with my first choice, the new rose gold version. I think the guilloching on the lines makes it feel a bit more lively, and I like how the rose gold dial and case give the watch a slightly more contemporary feel.
Additionally, I preferred the black hands and Roman numerals over the blue hands and markers on last year’s yellow gold version, but that being said, I was far more impressed with last year’s version than I would have expected, and the level of detail in person is far more impressive than any photographs could ever show.
For me, being a fan of style and incredible movements (more on that later), it wasn’t a question of choice: both watches complement each other perfectly and tell two stories firmly rooted in Daniel Roth history. They demonstrate the great dedication and attention to detail that went into the revival of the brand.
Daniel Roth DR001 Caliber
Further evidence of this is the Daniel Roth DR001. As we explained in our introductory article, it is the brainchild of LVMH master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The 206-piece hand-wound movement runs at 21,600vph, features 19 jewels, and has an 80-hour power reserve. The DR001 was developed specifically to fit the new gold double ellipse case. As a result, it’s a pleasure to view the movement through the display case back, another change from last year’s model, which came with an all-gold case back.
But with the new rose gold model, you can really appreciate the movement. Looking at it up close, you can see the amount of effort that went into its development, manufacture, decoration and hand finishing, all of which was done at La Fabrique du Temps. The level of refinement is impressive. It’s great to see the mix of finishes, but the hand finishing is impressive and tasteful at the same time.
The magic of a well-designed tourbillon watch
But the magic of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold doesn’t just stop at the back. It continues on the dial side. The tourbillon cage looks spectacular, coupled with the three black hands that indicate the seconds on a triple 20-second scale. It’s a fun way to display the seconds, but it’s also where the dial and the movement work perfectly together.
I’m not usually a big fan of tourbillons because they tend to disrupt the design of the dial. You could argue that complications are the essence of a watch. Technically, I agree, but incorporating a tourbillon into a design is a visual challenge. But the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold excels in this regard. The combination of elements works well. There’s room in the tourbillon’s structure, and it has a playful connection to the seconds display. The three scales flow nicely into the dial showing the hours and minutes. This is a very beautifully designed watch with a stunning case and an original dial.
Final Thoughts on the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
The original Daniel Roth Double Face Tourbillon and this new Tourbillon Rose Gold are both my favorite tourbillon watches. As you can see, seeing Daniel Roth come back makes me super happy. And the way LVMH has brought it back is just amazing. As a result, the new watch tastefully pays homage to the original while improving it with an updated case, a thinner movement (resulting in a thinner watch), and two beautiful dials. Add in the flawless finishing and the perfect match with the brown calfskin strap, and you can see why the new Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold was one of the most talked about watches at the Geneva Watch Days.
With a limited production run of just 50 pieces per year, it may be hard to get your hands on the new Tourbillon Rose Gold version, but we’re sure these watches will find their way into collectors’ hands. The new Daniel Roth Tourbillon models are perfect proof of why the rebirth of the Daniel Roth brand is so exciting.
The way La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton approached this shows great vision and dedication and is worthy of respect. If the initial press information wasn’t proof enough, seeing the actual watch up close makes it even more clear. The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold is one of my favorite watches of the year.
To find out more about the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold, head over to the brand’s official website, and let us know in the comments whether or not you think this new rose gold version beats last year’s yellow gold Tourbillon edition.
