Blancpain is empowering Air Command “squadrons” to secure air superiority with a new version of its 1950s US Air Force flyback chronograph. The 42.5mm model features a lightweight titanium case with a black bezel insert, olive green dial, black bezel, beige lume, numerals and scales. Does this new release push the boundaries of retro too far, or is it just right?
Hearing the sound of a propeller plane brings many to their knees. The same can be said about pilot watches from the “propeller era”. Yes, the jet age made intercontinental travel much more accessible. Slowly but surely, the romance of flying faded away. You can even compare quartz watches to jetliners. Yes, quartz watches and jet planes are great if you stick to the numbers, but there’s more to life than cold, hard facts. This is especially true when it comes to beautifully crafted machines such as aircraft and mechanical watches. When it comes to owning an anachronistic machine, a vintage watch trumps a vintage plane. At 22,450 euros, the Blancpain Air Command is definitely not a watch for the masses, but it’s more affordable than, say, a 1950s Lockheed Constellation. This watch is also more wallet-friendly when it comes to maintenance intervals than a three-tailed “Connie”.
Blancpain Air Command is back on radar
The name Air Command is said to have a connection to the 1955 film “Strategic Air Command.” Blancpain produced 12 watches, a proof of concept, delivered to the US Air Force and commissioned by Allen Tornek of Tornek-Rayville, Blancpain’s US importer. Tornek needed a name for the chronograph and came up with an action-packed movie. Thankfully he didn’t think of “The Court Jester,” starring Danny Kaye, which hit cinemas in 1955.
Regardless, the Air Command is a watch worthy of the sky. It ranks high on collectors’ and enthusiasts’ lists as well. Its legendary status is somewhat unusual: the origins of the Air Command and the exact reasons behind its design are unknown, it was never mass-produced, and it mysteriously vanished.
Part of the Fifty Fathoms Trilogy series, the 1996 Air Command had very little in common with the original watch, and in 2003 it too was discontinued. It wasn’t until 2019 that Blancpain released an Air Command with a design based on the 1950s model.
Olive green and beige for a retro yet modern look
When Blancpain of Le Chenitt in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, decided to revive the Air Command, they started with a steel version of the flyback chronograph. Three years later, a blue-dial model in titanium and pink gold and different case sizes debuted, and now there is a version with a green dial. I had the chance to try out the 36.2 mm model and the 42.5 mm iteration. Made from grade 23 titanium, an alloy that can be finely finished than grade 5 titanium, the 42.5 mm case is 13.7 mm thick and 51 mm long. The long, thin lugs are very reminiscent of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 that Blancpain released last year. I like these elegant lugs on both retro-style watches.
So, here’s the big question: is a green dial retro? If the hands, numerals and other markings are done in a “faux patina” then yes, it is retro. But if the dial is green with beige details then it is fashionable. I’m not a huge fan of faux patina, so I went for the fashionable, contemporary option. It also matches many of my favorite pieces in my wardrobe.
How does Air Command “fly”?
The numbers tell you the size, but how does that translate to comfort on the wrist? These proportions, combined with the lightness of the titanium case, make the Air Command comfortable to wear. At least, I think so. Due to the length of the watch, the strap hangs almost vertically on my 18cm wrist. To fit and function properly, the leather of the strap needs a bit of flexibility. The green calfskin strap with contrasting beige stitching that comes on the watch looks great, but it’s stiff as a board. I’m sure that will be resolved within a few weeks (or months?) of daily wear, but out of the box it’s not the most comfortable strap.
That being said, we do applaud the choice to pair the strap with a simple titanium pin buckle – a fancy folding clasp would have been sufficient given the price of the watch, but the spirit of the watch calls for a functional and practical pin buckle.
I also wonder how nice the green Air Command with its bidirectional titanium bezel with black ceramic inserts and luminous markers would look paired with a bezel-matching black nubuck strap. The supple nubuck is comfortable to wear right from the get-go.
Turbulence-free movement
There is nothing new inside the 3 ATM water-resistant case. That is not a bad thing, as the 297-part automatic caliber F388B with silicon balance and hairspring is a great combination of beauty and functionality. It is robust, reliable, and accurate, as it oscillates at 5Hz. The finishing is also of a high standard, but it is also industrial in style, so it requires more effort to recognize and appreciate. However, there is more room to see the movement than in the 2022 model, as Blancpain decided to use a propeller-style rotor. The 2019 debut also had a propeller-shaped rotor, but it was made of rose gold and was a bit more showy. The new propeller blends in with the rest of the rotor and the look of the movement below it. And once the rotor finishes winding the movement, it has a 50-hour power reserve.
An integrated flyback movement with column wheel and vertical clutch, the operation of the Caliber F388B is smooth and direct. Of course, the flyback function is rarely needed nowadays, but it does make the watch even more enjoyable when operating the chronograph.
Dreaming of the future of air command
Today, the vintage Air Command is a legendary coveted watch for Blancpain collectors due to its rarity and sporadic appearances at auctions. We don’t know much, but the few things we do know put our horological brains into creative overdrive. For example, the original watches were equipped with Valjoux 222 flyback movements, only some of which were signed by Blancpain. Next year, the Air Command celebrates its 70th anniversary. How about a special 70th anniversary edition with a 42mm case in white gold? Inside the case is a reinterpreted version of the hand-wound Valjoux 222, with haute horlogerie finishing and signed by Blancpain. Is this too expensive to develop? No, I don’t think so. Because Breguet will share the costs. The brand could use it for a future special version of the Type 20, the watch I reviewed, signed by Breguet.
Since the movement does not have a rotor, the case is slightly thinner (11mm?), which enhances the historical appeal of the watch. The dial is black with eggshell white numerals, hands and details, ideal for a timeless look. What do you think? And what do you think of the green dial version of the Air Command? Let me know in the comments below.
