Jamie Weiss
When you’re diving in at the bottom of the ocean, you probably don’t think about whether it’s on the way around the world. Still, diving watches with GMT capabilities are extremely popular and Doxa is dealing with it with the latest release. Doxa’s catalogue had no GMT watches for quite some time – in fact, almost 20 years – and the last Doxa GMT in 2006 was a very different beast with both technical and visually complex structures, measuring at a massive 45mm diameter. In comparison, the new Sub 250T GMT has a much more refined and wearable outlook.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7yi9kqgq3e
case
Generally speaking, GMT leads variations of popular toolwatches to one of two routes. They keep things simple other than radically reinterpreting the design to facilitate complications or adding another time hand or a second time zone subdial. The Doxa Sub 250t GMT falls into the latter camp. Here we have a Doxa signature stainless steel tonneau-shaped case imagined at a diameter of 40mm. This is the Goldilocks size of the tool watch. It’s too big, but not too small. It is only 10.85mm thick. This is considered thin in a time-only diving watch, so it is impressive that it remains in its enormous state, taking into account the complications of GMT.
For context, this will land a Sub 250T GMT in the middle of the Sub 200T on the land. This is the 39mm x 10.7mm and 42.5mm x 13.4mm Sub 300T. It’s strange how it works. Additionally, the prize for guessing water resistance ratings is 250 meters. This is much more than most GMT watches. Doxa fans are happy that Doxa hasn’t deprecated the Sub’s signature unidirectional steel dive bezel for this GMT Watch, maintaining its core functionality as a diver’s tool.
Dial
At first glance, the dial on the DOXA sub250T GMT is virtually indistinguishable from the standard sub200T or 300T. However, if you look closely, you’ll see a two-tone 24-hour scale around the chapter ring and a large skeletonized GMT hand designed to interfere with local timetelling to obscure the 3 o’clock date window. It’s smart, subtle and maintains the practical design language of Doxa Sub.
Doxa is known for its eye-catching and colorful dials. Doxa fans are pleased to hear that the Sub 250T GMT belongs to all signature Doxa colors. Ciarambler Silver; Sharkhunter Black; Caribbean, Navy Blue. Diving Star Yellow; Aquamarine; White Pale, it is pure white. Sea Emerald, a green sunburst. Sea Emerald was added only to the Doxa lineup last year, and quickly proved to be one of the brand’s most popular dial colors.
However, the big news for the Sub 250T GMT is that it will also arrive with an additional vintage Sharkhunter dial option, representing Doxa’s first gradient dial. It has a luscious, almost tobacco-like samburstuchme, complemented by this aging room, a homage to Doxa’s earliest Sharkhunter model. Speaking of hands, this model has a different GMT hand than the other models in the range.
As for Lume, all models utilize Super Luminova with time markers, hand and bezel pips, using two small dots from Lume, which distinguish between hemispheres on a 24-hour scale. The time markers are painted directly on the dial, not applied or filled plots. This has a more retro look.
strap
The nine models come with an FKM rubber strap or stainless steel “rice beads” bracelet that matches the dial collar. Both have safety with an extension of divers. Interestingly, the bracelet is only attractive at a price premium of 40 USD on the rubber strap, so in my opinion, it’s easy to choose a bracelet.
Movement
This DOXA GMT complexity is provided thanks to the Sellita SW330-2. This watch has a 50-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz. It features quick set dates and GMT hands, and a few seconds of hacking. This movement is only 4.1mm thick, which contributes to the thinness of the sub-GMT of 250t, just like a closed screw-down caseback.
verdict
This is probably not the most groundbreaking DOXA release of all time, but I think it ranks as one of the best submarines ever. Not only is it a suitable Doxa dive watch, it is possible to robust underwater adventures, but its reasonable proportions and useful complications make it a versatile everyday wearer. In some respects, its complications, not its proportions, what makes it very attractive – the addition of a handy GMT function (and full disclosure, I’m a huge fan of GMT watches. That’s my favorite complication. In any case, it’s great to see another complication join Doxa’s current range.
DOXA Sub 250T GMT Pricing and Availability
The DOXA Sub 250T GMT is available both in-store and online through the Time+Tide Shop. Price: 2,450 US$
Brand DOXA Model Sub 250T GMT Case Dimensions 40mm(d) x 10.85mm(T) x 42.9mm(LTL) Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistant 250m, Screw Down Crown Crystal (S) Emerald Strap FKM Rubber Strap or Steel “Rice Beads” Bracelet, Diver Extension Movement Safety Clasp SW330-2 with Cerata, Automatic Power Reserve 50 Hours Functionality Time, Minutes, Seconds, Date, GMT, Unidirectional Diving Bezel Availability is currently available.
