Since posting images on Doxa Sub 200t Divingstar’s social media, James Stacey, Hodinkee’s editor-in-chief, I’ve known I have to practice with one. Yellow is the colour that keeps me back. The diving star was already on my radar, but I watched it over and over again and used up my very limited resistance to trying out the watches I actually wanted to own.
Doxa is an interesting brand. The company currently specializes in diving watches, but historically produced a variety of styles, including dresses and daily watches. The Jenny family has taken over the brand direction, so we focus on the core lineup. This includes entry-level sub-200, sub-300Ts like Battle Tank (think Rolex’s sea resident), flagship watch, and sub-300 (think Rolex Sub-Mariner).
Doxa Dive Watches
Certainly, other models are in range, such as a series of dive-enabled chronographs and the elusive Doxa Army. However, the brand’s core DNA is within these three model lines. Incidentally, the Sub 200 is based on Reference 11804, Doxa’s first first dive watch.
Last year, Doxa introduced another line to its core range Sub 200t. This is a 300T shrinkable version. The Sub 300T is a Panzer watch that can handle the depths that are the territory of Omega Proprof and Rolex residents. However, the 200T is no longer with the helium escape valve, a depth rating of 12000m, and a case size of 42.5mm. Instead, it is a 39mm watch and could be perfectly capable, still 200 meters below. Doxa’s Sub 200T is also a previously processed watch.
Doxa Sub 200t is my favorite
The Sub 200T addresses all the design issues I had with the Sub 300T or Sub 300. First off, the 300T clumsy bracelet is gone. In fact, there is no proper expression, so it is added to the lug-to-lug footprint of that watch. However, the 200T retains the excellent clasp and ratchet dive expansion system that the 300T has. Secondly, the crappy clasp on the sub 300 is nowhere to be found. Third, and non-existent, is the dome sapphire crystal that overturns the head of the sub-300. The crystal has a very large amount of pop, and you cannot read the watch at a certain angle. Finally, there is a 39mm case on the wrist that feels like a 37mm case thanks to the cushion shape.
In short, the Doxa Sub 200T, a short vintage, is my favorite rendition of Doxa’s “Fugly” magic. The only latest exception to this is the recently released Doxa Sub 300 Great White Limited Edition. The room dial is drop dead gorgeous. However, when the opportunity arises to pick a colour and take a sub 200T for a long-term review, I knew exactly which one to spend weeks.
Why did I go to Diving Star Yellow?
Which colorway did you choose? Well, if that’s not yet clear from the photos, I went to the diving star. The core colorways of Doxa have historically been Silver (Searambler), Black (Sharkhunter), and Orange (Professional). That said, yellow was almost in the beginning, but it was truly rare. Therefore, yellow is as doxa as orange.
It is a scientific fact that yellow makes humans happy. Yellow causes something in our brains that we associate with happiness. It may last for a long time. Because I’ve been looking down at the Doxa Sub 200t Divingstar on my wrist for the last few weeks, so I smiled a lot.
This 39mm diving watch is a dokusa for me
In recent years, due to the trend of small watches, Doxa has missed out on offering medium sized up to the Sub 200t. This is something my colleague Thomas also pointed out. The sturdy sub-300T offers the classic look of the original conquerors, but thanks to modern manufacturing, it has technically upgraded features and tolerances.
Meanwhile, Doxa’s Sub 300 offers something for our vintage enthusiasts. The sub-300’s small dial footprint and thinner case create an attractive package for those interested in the original vintage version that debuted in 1967. The Sub300 plays a solid role as a brand’s Halo product and houses a COSC certified movement. However, as mentioned in this article, there is a precedent for a smaller DOXA sub. Some of these existed during the golden age of brands in the 1970s. Examples are essentially a 300ts sub-reduced to a size of 35mm, surviving. These were also known as sub-200s. DOXA was used to promote these as women’s watches and could be seen in old DOXA ads.
Underwater Handling of the DOXA Sub 200T Diving Star
Of all the colours I have experimented with underwater, yellow should be one of the easiest to read. In fact, the Doxa Sub 200t Divingstar appears to be much easier to read than the brand’s famous orange counterpart. I took a picture of all the colorways underwater and removed for aquamarine. This should be the easiest to read, even in the churn-up waters that Sydney has been facing recently.
The Doxa Sub 200T also has the advantage of a slim profile that will hold your wrist well. This is a great factor when considering taking a watch underwater. Because it’s easy to scrape it on the rocks when you’re pulling.
There are other yellow options out there
You want to participate in joy, but is Doxa not for you? Thankfully there are quite a few watches with yellow dials. What comes to mind is the citizen tsuyosa NJ0150-56z. This offers some of the magic of the yellow Rolex Oyster, but is still in production and not thousands of euros in the secondary market. That said, the Yellow Dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the watch I want.
Breitling’s Superocean Automatic 42 is another great option for anyone who can spend around 5,000 euros. Alternatively, if your budget is much larger, you can see picking up a used royal oak offshore diver in yellow. Hublot has also created some interesting options with the recent yellow magic model. Really, there are options for every taste and budget. I would like to reveal more yellow dial watches, but some more smiles are good!
Final Thoughts on Doxa Sub 200t
The Doxa Sub 200t Divingstar has been something that has come to my mind since James Stacey began waxing lyrical about it on the Grey Nato podcast. Well, it paved the way to my brain and could now be a bug in my collection that way. Yellow watches have fun, and many boxes are ticked.
How about you, Fratelli? What is your favorite color for the watch dial outside the standard? Please let me know what that is in the comments!
