jamie weiss
Ulysse Nardin is the ultimate brand. On the one hand, they create pieces in a very traditional style, as seen in the Marine collection, inspired by marine chronometers, and the minimalist (and sometimes erotic) designs of the Classico collection. On the other hand, it is perhaps best known these days for its avant-garde high-tech products, including its famous Freak series and its latest diver products. The Blast belongs decisively to the latter group, offering large diameters and horological delights such as marquetry, astronomical instruments or modern interpretations of impressive tourbillons. This article will discuss two of them.
case
At the time of publication, there are eight different versions of the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon in various case materials and color combinations, but today we’ll be looking at two of the most iconic models. One is very sporty; It leans more dressy. The former features a case made entirely of black DLC titanium, while the latter is primarily 18ct rose gold with some titanium elements, including a blue DLC titanium bezel.
Despite its somewhat intimidating 45mm diameter, the Blast Tourbillon is just 12.6mm thick, and the lugs create a slight camber that keeps the watch snug on the wrist and flows nicely into the integrated rubber strap .
The black DLC gives him a villainous and sinister look, like something Black Manta would wear. On the other hand, in rose gold, the deep brushing and dark blue accents on the top give it a very royal look.
dial
When talking about watches with skeletonized movements, it is very difficult to separate the dial discussion from the movement discussion. Because they are actually the same thing. But before we explain why the Blast Tourbillon movement is so noteworthy, we’d like to take a moment to talk about the beauty of its dial. The movement’s armature forms a rectangular letterbox shape in the center of the dial, crossed by an X-shaped structure. These harsh angles within the circular watch case create a striking look.
I also like the subtle differences in coloring and finish between these two models. In the case of the blue/gold model, these armatures are entirely blue, with contrasting gold reholes, indexes, hands and tourbillon, as well as a gold ring around the rotor gear. By comparison, the black model adds a devilish red to its mostly butchered look, while the blue/gold model blacks out movement elements such as the central rotor gear and stem mechanism, which are left bare metal. It’s out.
These subtle differences demonstrate Ulysse Nardin’s attention to detail, distinguishing different colorways of the same watch in small but meaningful ways. I also appreciate that both models maintain readability. Some skeletonized watches don’t fully expose the movement (or are technically not even skeletonized at all), or sacrifice ease of use in favor of a more impressive openwork. Some do. The United Nations has found a happy medium here.
movement
Now let’s talk about the movements that power these two Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillons. This model is called UN-172 and features a micro-rotor on the dial side at 12 o’clock and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Thanks to the escape wheel, anchor and hairspring, it is highly resistant to magnetic fields. They are all made from silicone, and Ulysse Nardin pioneered the use of this material. The Blast Tourbillon is actually the first Ulysse Nardin skeleton model with an automatic tourbillon.
Ulysse Nardin often uses an X-shaped motif on its watches, and the movement’s X-shaped armature is repeated in the UN-172 tourbillon’s X-shaped cage, which is much more open than most tourbillons. I am. The way the purple silicone escape wheel dances off-center as the tourbillon rotates is truly spectacular, as is the way you can see the rotor spinning from the dial side. In general, this is a very beautiful movement.
The UN-172 also benefits from a 72-hour power reserve for weekend use, but this comes at the expense of frequency, beating at a slightly slower 2.5 Hz. However, personally, I would prioritize power reserve over frequency any day of the week.
strap
Both of these variations of the Blast Tourbillon are mounted on an integrated rubber strap with a titanium butterfly clasp combined with a buckle that matches the case material. The blue/gold model has a strap with a velvet inlay at the top, while the black model has a full rubber strap with a hobnail upper texture (pictured in this article) or a black alligator leather inlay. You can choose one of the uppers. I don’t like combining exotic leather and rubber. Counterintuitively, it makes the watch look cheaper than it actually is, at least in my opinion.
judgment
Ulysse Nardin does visually dramatic watchmaking better than most, but it takes something very special to stand up to the freaks. Realistically, I think potential customers will do that. They will be cross-shopping internally. But oddly enough, I think what the Blast Tourbillon offers is a more readable and traditional watch than the Freak, though it doesn’t skimp on being visually impressive. They have a very unified design.
When it comes to blue/gold and black, I’d probably choose the former. I just think it’s more eye-catching. But I also like the evil look of the black model…and if neither suits your tastes, plain titanium, ceramic, iced-out white gold versions, etc. are also available. Call it Blast Wave…
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon price and availability
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon series is now available from Ulysse Nardin retailers. Price: US$56,100, CHF 53,200, A$92,100 (black DLC titanium, red dial), US$67,300, CHF63,800, A$110,300 (rose gold, blue dial)
Brand Ulysse Nardin Model Blast Tourbillon Reference Number 1723-400-3A/BLACK (Black DLC Titanium, Red Dial)
1725-400-3A/3A (Rose gold, blue dial) Case dimensions 45mm (D) x 12.6mm (T) x 54mm (LTL) Case material Black DLC titanium (1723-400-3A/BLACK)
18ct rose gold and titanium (1725-400-3A/3A) Weight 99.64 g (1723-400-3A/BLACK)
127.90 g (1725-400-3A/3A) Water resistant 50 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Skeleton finish Lug width Integrated strap Textured rubber, alligator leather upper (1723-400-3A/BLACK)
Textured rubber, velvet upper (1725-400-3A/3A) Movement Caliber UN-172, manufactured in-house, micro-rotor automatic Power reserve 72 hours Functions Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon Availability Current price US$56,100/CHF 53,200/A $92,100 (1723-400-3A/Black)
67,300 USD/63,800 Swiss Franc/110,300 Australian Dollar (1725-400-3A/3A)
