Tom Austin
Sustainability is a topic that is rarely discussed in watchmaking. Watches, especially those at the gorgeous end of scale, generally avoid scrutiny – perhaps because of their small size, they give the impression that the environmental impact is equally small. The truth is somewhat different, with around 16 million watches making up only Swiss exports each year, with over 900 million watches in all other forms around the world. It’s a lot of watches, and in the process it’s a hell of many manufacturing industries, especially considering how environmentally impactful it can have, such as the production and processing of steel. Not to mention the rest – like plastic, composites and everything else that goes into the watch. The more you think about it, the more accurate the scale of the impact becomes.
But that doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone should be made to feel bad about owning a watch today. Many large watch brands act responsibly, and many brands spend a considerable amount of time trying to offset their footprint. Companies like Rolex, which make up the share of Lions in the Swiss market, run the majority of businesses focused on charities, raise funds and awareness of environmental causes, and do a great job. Nevertheless, there is no doubt that it can be done, especially with large brands, as there is little to scream from the roof about manufacturing sustainability.
Detrash is here to change that, with a clear message to put sustainability first and build a brand that takes the environmental footprint seriously. Founder Guy Blaskey is committed to building a great watch brand. It aims to manipulate recycled materials for numerous processes, giving more than 1% of sales to the brand’s planetary causes. Their latest release, Cali Melting Ice Cap Blue, is intended to maintain the forefront and center of climate change in a rather appropriate name.
Dial
This message is evident in the melted ice cap blue with a bold powder blue dial. The dial surface is textured with a crackle finish. The blue theme continues with markers from Royal Blue California Hour Hour and even darker blue mobile phones. The theme of the watch is to remind us of the fact that the polar ice caps are constantly melting, especially with the bright white super lumino balm finishing their hands and markers 12, 6, 3, 9, so this bold message is actually done very subtle. Detrash Mascot Cliff sits at 6am, a fun addition and combined with a quirky California layout makes it a dial that opens an engaging conversation.
case
Kari is a dive watch first and foremost, but I like the fact that it doesn’t look like it right away. There is no thin percentage here. This is a tool watch that passes through a lug of 41mm diameter and 47mm to the lug. Built for purpose, 12.9mm thick, it definitely has a wrist presence in the way modern dive watches should. The case is made from 80% recycled stainless steel, but corrosion resistance is still high on the agenda as attention is paid to ensure that the grade is still comparable to the 316L surgical grade. There is also a subtle nod to the classic diving watch. For example, a brushed surface combined with some nice bevelled edges on a straight rug.
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-in display caseback and screw down crown help to provide 200 meters of water resistance. You cannot request any more in this price range. The case finishes again with a brushed 120-click unidirectional steel bezel made from recycled materials, complete with a minute track finished with matching blue inlays.
Movement
Building a reliable dive watch must be extended to the movement. Detrash makes a robust choice for Cali and offers Seiko NH35 automatic caliber. This popular self-winding mechanical movement features anti-shock technology, 24 gems, a 41 hour power reserve and its extremely important cleaning seconds hand. It’s a move chosen for some of the coolest microbrands on the market, so it’s good to see them detrashing something sturdy, accurate and hardworking for Cali.
strap
Straps tend to be the area where it becomes somewhat easier for brands to push their sustainability message, and so is Cali. The watch is equipped with a blue nylon style textile strap made from marine plastic recycled with #tide Ocean Material. Plastic waste pollution is a major problem in our oceans, so it’s great to see straps made from 100% recycled marine plastic. #tide (has no relationship between time and tide!) was actually founded as a spinoff from the Swiss watchmaking industry. So, another example of Swiss watchmaking playing its role in trying to minimize the environmental impact. Each strap is finished with a recycled stainless steel pin buckle and modified with a 20mm spring bar instead of a military style nylon strap. However, this allows you to attach different strap styles, so the choice is yours.
verdict
The brand’s commitment to actually being environmentally conscious and putting specifications in places with mouths can be somewhat vague at best. It is easy to choose a hole in the claims they make, and to question some aspects of their actions, especially when it comes to products and components made in areas where details are often obscure. Detrash does an amazing job of building a watch brand by not only being less ambiguous, but standing by and boldly putting it at the start of the message. The name “Melted Ice Cap Blue” indicates everything. When they wanted the watch to have a message, they consciously chose to name those that reminded them of the message. Also, the fact that at least 1% of the cost is directed at supporting the planet in some way is humble to know that some brands out there care about what is really important.
Brand message aside, Kari is a capable tool watch that checks all the right boxes in terms of specifications and looks. At this price level, it competes well with the competition and offers finishes and specifications that are in line with overdependence. It is also a unique look. The California dial is finished in its impressive crackle finish blue, combining a classic diving watch style with a modern, bold twist.
Detrash Kari – Melting Ice Cap Blue Pricing and Availability
Detrash Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue is available directly from the Detrash website. Price: £395, USD 495, USD 788
Brand Detrash Watch Model Kari – Melted Ice Cap Blue Case Dimensions 40mm(d) x 12.9mm(T) Case Material 80% Recycled Stainless Steel Water Resistant 200m Crystal Crystal Front and Black Dial Crackle Blue Lug Width 20mm Bracelet Textile Strap One-way Diving Bezel Availability Available
495 US$
$788
