Louis Vuitton is not exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, the past two years have seen a major shift in fashion houses and their approach to watches. In 2023, Tambour is back in its most competitive form yet with an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, the slightly dressier Escal rejoined the lineup. Both models are elegant watches that can be worn daily.
Call us skeptics, but when a high fashion or jewelry brand enters the watch market, we scrutinize the details with a collective fine-tooth comb. Often these are just branding exercises that leave us watch geeks cold. But Louis Vuitton didn’t call the effort. The brand owns La Fabrique du Temps, a proper movement development company that designed the Tambour and Escale movements. Then there’s the design. Some people love it, some don’t, but everyone agrees it’s beautifully made and finished.
2014 Louis Vuitton Escal Worldtimer
Back to 2014
Before last year’s Tambour relaunch, 2014 was the last time I woke up and paid attention to Louis Vuitton and its watchmaking. I still remember the Escal Worldtimer being launched in various cities with handmade enamel bulging luggage tags. The clock wasn’t all that easy to read, but since I love putting stickers on my suitcases, the color and the idea of travel really appealed to me. But now, Louis Vuitton has a one-two punch with its current lineup of Tambour and Escale.
Louis Vuitton Tambour
When Tambour debuted in 2023, it caused a lot of buzz. This was a surprise, as few expected it to be a watch that would challenge the most famous companies in watchmaking. Louis Vuitton introduces a newly designed 40mm x 44mm watch with an integrated bracelet, new chronometer-certified LFT023 micro-rotor movement, and a sandblasted and brushed sector dial. The hands and hour markers are coated with Super-LumiNova for improved visibility in the dark. With a slim and comfortable 8.3 mm thickness and 50 meter water resistance, it’s also suitable for most everyday activities. The foldable hidden clasp gives the watch a sleek and finished look on your wrist.
There are also different types of tambours. The 18K rose gold model with a brown dial is now available in a yellow gold version with a white dial. The price of these watches is 59,500 euros.
Bicolor/two-tone watches have been making a comeback lately, and Louis Vuitton’s Tambour is one of my favorites. The combination of stainless steel and warm 18K rose gold perfectly complements the gray and silver sector dial. Delicately engraved rose gold outer markers on the outer sector contrast with indexes on the central ring. It’s a comfortable combination that eliminates the tacky look that tends to be found in two-tone watches. It’s also elegant enough for dressy events, yet sporty for less formal occasions. This watch retails for 30,200 euros.
Tambour watches made of stainless steel are the most affordable, but offer the same quality as models made from precious metals. The comfortable bracelet blends matte links with small polished intermediate links. Dark blue and medium gray dial options are available for €20,900.
LFT023 Micro Rotor Caliber
The LFT023 micro-rotor movement quickly put Tambour and Escale in competition with established watch brands. The caliber is only 4.2 mm thick and has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations. It also features a 22K gold rotor and 50 hours of power reserve. Official chronometer certification equates to a daily accuracy of +6/-4 seconds. In terms of finishing, the movement follows the dial and features sandblasted bridges. The raised and polished edges also boast angles. This is a beautiful caliber with 31 jewels, which is naturally displayed on both models.
Louis Vuitton Escale
Not content with Tambour from 2023, Louis Vuitton introduced Escale earlier this year. The watch incorporates elements from the brand’s famous and historic travel trunk line. The design of the lugs and dial are reminiscent of the brass hardware used on Louis Vuitton bags. It sounds “on the nose” but the application is subtle. These 39mm x 46.5mm watches are 10.34mm thick and, like the Tambour, are water resistant to 50m.
Escale comes in two 18K rose gold versions priced at €29,000. One has a dark blue embossed dial with a silver satin-finished outer flange. The second option has a similar outer area with an embossed silver center section. Both have rose gold indexes, hour and minute hands. Only the seconds hand is made of titanium and coated with rose gold to minimize weight. This model comes with a camel or dark blue calfskin strap and an 18K rose gold pin buckle. Despite its elegant and dressy shape, the Escal complements casual outfits.
Finally, for those looking for a special option, the Escal is available in a 39 mm platinum case for 39,000 euros. This model features a Gibeon meteorite found in Namibia in the center of the dial, and white gold for the indexes and hands. It has a black calfskin strap with a platinum pin buckle.
conclusion
Louis Vuitton has developed two highly wearable watches: the Tambour and the Escale. The design is attractive and stands out with unique details. What’s more, the modest case size and practical thickness made possible by the new micro-rotor movement make it competitive among luxury watches. For those considering an elegant daily watch in this price range, the Tambour and Escale are well worth a look.
For more information on Tambour and Escale, please visit Louis Vuitton’s official website.
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