Earlier this year, I heard from my colleague Jorg that the color of 2024 is brown. That shocked me. I don’t have anything against brown in general, but brown watch faces don’t appeal to me, to say the least. So why did I decide to try out the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac?Its shiny tobacco brown dial has a metallic shine, and the other hue nuances struck me. Because I gave it. I wondered if I could find a strap that would elevate my Glashütte three-row steel bracelet watch.
Well, 2024 is coming to an end, and while Jorg predicted it would be a year full of brown-dial watches, it looks like they’ve faded from my sight. I wrote an article with the headline “No Brown in Town” arguing against the seemingly fashionable brown dials, while also touting the timeless white dials. Just last month, I came across a brown dial that piqued my curiosity. That was when three NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 39 watches arrived at Fratello headquarters. Oddly enough, the darkest brown shade caught my attention. That’s because when light hits the sunburst tabac dial, the colors change dynamically and vividly. Most of the brown dials I’ve come across have always looked somewhat dull. I found the Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac not to be boring at all, and that you can adjust it to your own tastes.
Customize the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac to your liking
The brown dial reminds me of the books I had to read in high school. For those of you who didn’t have to read Dutch literature from the 1970s and 80s (lucky you, you devils), the tone of each book is dark. Dutch literature at the time was almost universally introverted, slow, and unadventurous. In the novels of the time, the main characters had little color, except for the dull brown shades of their clothing. Various novelists have not only painted that gloomy picture in my head, but also in their gloomy, plotless books, overcooked cabbage and drying on central heating radiators. It reminded me of the mixed smell of wet wool socks. Now you know why I don’t like watches with brown dials.
But when I noticed the Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, I found something that intrigued me. Perhaps my autumn mood was a bit gloomy, but I picked up the polished bracelet watch and immediately took off the bracelet. I don’t think the Oyster style bracelet is an advantage for club sports. It’s a little too shiny. The polished center link matches the Club Sport’s polished case, but pushes the overall look over the top. As someone who sees Clubsport as the next generation of field watches, which are fairly rugged with 200m water resistance, the bracelet doesn’t match my vision. It also served to distract from the interesting hues on the dial. Straps, on the other hand, solve that problem. But what color strap will suit my taste?
all kinds of dimensions
Before we move on to our chosen straps and discuss the color dimensions in detail, let’s first discuss the physical dimensions of the watch. The fully polished 39.5 mm case is 8.5 mm thick (0.1 mm slimmer with the all-steel caseback) and has extra-long lugs, measuring 49.5 mm tip-to-tip. Long, curved lugs are a polarizing feature and the subject of heated debate. I know this design won’t work on some wrists, but the 39mm version with a case length of about 5cm fits my 18cm wrist perfectly. I also like the “long-legged” look of the watch. The slim, long case is elegant, and the rounded bezel at the top is a bit muscular. The combination of these characteristics creates an elegant all-rounder with a sporty twist.
Now let’s take a closer look at the dimensions of color. When removed from the bracelet, the dark brown dial with a metallic sunburst begins to shine. When light hits the dial, it reflects hints of orange, but often gives off a purple hue with casual gray notes. I don’t want to make the brownest of brown watches, so a brown strap is out of the question, but all other colors have a chance. I looked through Fratello Shop’s large selection and settled on a gray nubuck strap. The gray softens the brown dial considerably and brings out more of the purple hue.
Gray brings out a lot of detail
With a gray strap, there is more room for expression in the functional details of the dial. The combination of white Arabic numerals and rectangular hour markers surrounded by a small 60 seconds/minute scale, also white, has a refreshing sense of transparency. The circular graining on the sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock also becomes more apparent as it subtly contrasts with the rest of the dial’s sunburst finish. Precise length and width, Super-LumiNova coated pencil-style hands provide a functional and aesthetic fit to the part. When it comes to functionality, the lack of a date indicator (or two) keeps the dial clean and tidy. The date function does nothing for this Club Sport’s dial layout.
There are other reasons why I love pairing brown and gray. Wearing a third color on your watch, such as a dark forest green or a shade of blue, will give you a classy and moody color combination. At first glance, it may not match your outfit, but the muted color makes it look classy. The Club Sport Neomatik 39 also combines elegance and sportiness, making this watch suitable for both casual and formal wear. In other words, it goes just as well with sneakers as it does with Chelsea boots. I have to say that I had a lot of fun customizing the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac to my liking.
Final word, specs and price
The NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac I tailored is a reference 760 with display case back. The three-row bracelet of this watch retails for 3,120 euros, and the all-steelback version (Ref. 759) costs 2,820 euros. NOMOS also offers the watch with a 20 mm textile strap in blue-black. Prices start at 2,640 euros for the solid-back version and increase to 2,940 euros for the version in this review. This strap has a nice dark blue hue with black trim, but I’m not sure about the fabric. I think this watch is more versatile and the leather strap is a bit more luxurious. But ultimately it’s a matter of preference and up for debate.
What is indisputable is the existence of the DUW 3001 Neomatik movement. The 3.2 mm thick automatic caliber operates at 21,600 revolutions per hour and has a power reserve of 43 hours and 27 jewels. It features the brand’s signature swing system and unique escapement. Great looking movement with three-quarter plate, Glashütte ribs, perlage and hardened blue screws.
If you still feel like having a (friendly) discussion, please leave your thoughts about this brown dial watch, and perhaps a few others, in the comments section below.
