It’s been a while since we covered an Undone watch. This Hong Kong-based brand is widely known among watch enthusiasts for its affordable watches. Undone’s latest creation is the Urban Automatic, a triple calendar watch that is the first mechanical model in the vintage-inspired Urban series. I have always loved Urban Line. Because they take inspiration from the iconic chronographs of the 1940s and 50s to create a series of highly desirable watches. I tried out the new Urban Automatic and was pleasantly surprised by how much vintage spirit it captured. Let me explain why.
Of the 10 collections Undone currently offers, I find the Urban and Basecamp lines to be the most interesting. The latter is a series of diver’s watches with some pretty attractive items. The Basecamp Classic and Cali models are particularly good. Another model that I remember vividly is the black dial version of the Undone × Simple Union Bronze Limited Edition. This had a heavy artificial patina and looked great. However, this review will focus on the new Urban Automatic series.
Andon Urban Series
The name Urban can be a bit deceiving, as it often connotes modernity. That’s not the case when it comes to Undone’s Urban line aesthetic. A series of 40mm mechanical quartz watches inspired by vintage. One model that some of you may be familiar with is the Vintage Killy. This stylish timepiece is inspired by the beautiful chronographs of the 1940s and 50s and perfectly captures that vibe. Two more standout models are the Urban Vintage Arctic Blue and Pistachio Crisp, with their bright and colorful dials.
With the new Urban Automatic, the brand has taken a step away from mechaquartz movements and introduced a model with a self-winding mechanical caliber. But that’s not all. The two new versions of the Urban Automatic also initially look like monopusher chronographs, but they are not. These two models are inspired by vintage calendar watches with pushers to adjust the month display. This is thanks to the Miyota movement that makes the Urban Automatic model an interesting modern twist on a classic design.
Andan Urban Automatic specifications
The new Urban Automatic features a 40 mm stainless steel case measuring 47.8 mm from lug to lug and a total thickness of 14 mm, with a domed sapphire crystal. It’s also 100m water resistant and has a 20mm lug gap, making it a true strap monster. The round case has straight lugs with a nice downward slope and excellent side contours. I love looking at interesting angular shapes.
The case is mainly polished, with only the sides of the lugs and the thin case band being brushed. The right side of the case features an onion-shaped crown with the brand’s logo and a pump-shaped pusher. Overall, the visual balance is perfect and the watch feels well-balanced. However, there are notable differences in the presence of the two versions.
Two essentially different dial variations
The first of two models, the Sandstorm version, features a vertically brushed beige dial with a textured outer ring and two textured subdials in the same color. We are prepared. This is combined with brushed steel applied hour markers and hands. Luminous-filled pencil-style hour and minute hands and small luminous dots next to the indexes allow you to read the time in the dark. Additionally, the tip of the central seconds hand and the moon pointer at 3 o’clock are red, corresponding to the red details on the dial. The tip of the hand that indicates the day of the week is dark blue.
Regarding the calendar function, the left subdial shows the day and the right subdial shows the month. An aperture at 6 o’clock displays the date, completing the three calendar functions. This version of the Urban Automatic comes with a light beige suede strap to complete the look.
The second version, the Urban Automatic Eclipse, features a vertically brushed black dial with textured silver-colored subdials and a matching outer ring with a black printed 60-minute scale. We are prepared. The brushed indexes and luminescent hands are finished in gunmetal gray. Like the beige dial, it has small luminous dots next to the indexes.
The tips of the central seconds and calendar hands are orange, matching the orange detailing on the dial. These include the date printed in orange on a black date disc. A typical Undone detail is the brand logo at 6 o’clock on both dials. It’s a strange place for a logo, so you’ll have to get used to it.
This model comes with a black nubuck strap. Overall, the Eclipse version looks more modern than the Sandstorm version.
Automatic Miyota triple calendar movement
The Miyota 9122 caliber powers the Urban Automatic model. This movement belongs to the 9000 series, meaning it is one of the Japanese company’s premium products. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it features 26 jewels and offers a 40-hour power reserve when fully wound. As described, this automatic caliber features a triple calendar with day and month subdials and a date window.
The central time, day and date functions are controlled by the crown. Pull the crown out to the first click and turn it to the left to change the day of the week, and turn it to the right to change the date. You can adjust the time by pulling it out to the second step. The pump pusher at 2 o’clock controls the month display. Each time you click the pusher, the little hand advances one month. Overall, it’s a fun and easy-to-use complication that adds a lot of personality to the watch.
Wearing the Andan Urban Automatic
I was very impressed with how much fun it was to wear this watch. Each version has a charm firmly rooted in the past, but thanks to its modern proportions, the watch fits perfectly on my 18.5 cm wrist. Despite their retro style, there are distinct differences between the two. With its beige dial, the Sandstorm model feels like a proper remake of a 1940s or 50s watch.
Although the case shape and dial design are the same, the black dial Eclipse model creates a completely different atmosphere. I think it’s a funkier, more 60’s inspired look. I prefer the aesthetics of the lightweight model, but I can appreciate both as they are very different.
The curvature of the case is also noticeable. As a result, the watch doesn’t feel as thick as 14mm. The curved sapphire crystal slightly distorts the image of the sloping dial, but that’s part of the classic appeal. Another great thing is that both watches look great on a variety of straps. I tried both watches on a cognac nubuck strap and a cream suede strap and they looked great together. But these are just two of many great choices, as these watches can be matched with straps of different styles and colors.
Working with Urban Automatic’s calendar function
I found the push-pull onion crown easy to use when adjusting the calendar function. It draws you out with a clear click and gives you confidence. However, the pusher is a little less impressive. I would have liked a firmer click to confirm that I had just advanced the month. Plus, each time you let go, the little hand wiggles in place. It fits perfectly on the actual moon marker, but it’s a bit interesting to see the hands move when you release the pusher.
However, that doesn’t take away from the enjoyable experience I had while wearing the Urban Automatic model. With these automatic triple calendars, Undone adds two adorable new products to its Urban collection. The price is also very reasonable at $430. The Andan Urban Automatic is an attractive price point for those looking for a retro watch with a calendar complication that perfectly captures the vintage vibe.
Final thoughts on Andan Urban Automatic
These watches are not meant to replace a proper vintage watch, but they capture its spirit well and offer the comfort of modern manufacturing techniques and modern movements. So if you like the style of these watches, we recommend you give them a try. The Andan Urban Automatic model was a fun change-up from the series of much more expensive watches that sat on my desk. It made me smile when I wore it, and it’s more than worth the price of these watches. Moreover, that’s exactly what a watch should be.
The new Undone Urban Automatic model will be available from the last week of October 2024. Until the watch goes on sale, visit the brand’s dedicated page for more information. Moreover, you can also sign up and register to purchase the model of your choice. Let me know in the comments which version you prefer.
This article is a collaboration between Fratello and Undone. learn more.
