As a watch writer, I sometimes come across something really special and different from everything else. It doesn’t happen very often, but when it does, I know right away. When I received my watches from Celadon, a Chinese elderly brand, I felt the feeling as soon as I unleashed them. After seeing the dial it was clear that incredible time and skills had led to creating them. However, when the watch was turned around, the following surprise came to mind: Splendidly displayed through the caseback are the movements of the brands CH1 and CH5, created and completed by Lin Yong Hua, AHCI master watch maker dedicated to Celadon Haute Horlogerie. As you know, I was hoping to learn more about the Celadon HH Century Cloissoné collection.
Celadon is not necessarily a new brand, as it has been around since 2012. Currently, the brand has two product lines. The first is the Celadon Auto Auto Holology Line, featuring high-end handmade watches like this review. Luxurious watches are the perfect display of traditional craftsmanship. The second product line is the Maison Celadon line, which does not include luxurious everyday watches. However, these watches represent Chinese culture in all its modest elegance. I had the opportunity to learn more about some of the amazing watches from the Auto Holloggery line.
The story of Celadon and its founder
Celadon was founded by Benjamin Chi, born in the ancestors of the Fujian tribe in Singapore. After studying in London, there he built a deep love for vintage and antique watches before settling in Shanghai, learning more about his roots and the lands of his ancestors. It is where he came to know many highly skilled but unknown artists who use traditional skills and techniques to create amazing artisan products. When these artisans slowly became dying varieties, he decided to support their traditions.
At first, his support meant that Chi had a bespoke watch made for him. However, when he posted them online, his friends began to pay attention and expressed interest in owning some. That was when the idea of starting a business and selling watches online came into being. Over a decade later, it became three brands that created their own names in the world of watches. It all began with Celadon in 2012 and shining the spotlight on traditional Chinese craftsmanship. The second brand created by Chee is Milléchron. This celebrates the elegance of classic watchmaking. lastlythere is Bchh, Working with high-end European watches/watchmakers for exceptional watches. It led to the GPHG nomination for BCHH’s celestial voiced “The Sunset of Cappadocia,” which Chi created along with Andersen Geneva.
The Story of Celadon Autohorlogerie Century
But we’re going back to Celadon, or more specifically Celadon Auto Holloggery. With this special line, Qi wanted to enhance the fame and reputation of Chinese watchmaking. Over the past decade, we have seen more and more Chinese brands follow that principle, but not often in the Chee way at Celadon HH. Brands like Behrens and Atelier Wen focus on modern watchmaking, but Celadon is all about traditional craftsmanship, deeply rooted in Chinese culture.
Additionally, the Celadon HH allows you to choose from many standard watch options, but you can go a step further and have your brand create a custom-made watch. All canvas of this is a century model. In our office, there were several variations of the century time-only model. All feature the same 42mm x 47.4mm stainless steel case with 11.5mm profile and 22mm lug spacing. This classic shaped “Moon Case” is beautifully finished by hand. The combination of design and brushed refined parts has many references to traditional Chinese culture and architecture that make it more than just a canvas of the dial and movement.
Create a CenturyCloisonné dial
The Century Case is combined with several unique Cloisonné enamel dials. This enamelization technique dates back 600 years into Chinese history and is linked to many historical artifacts and events. Creating these dials involves 45 steps. It starts with Place the image on a solid silver base and determine the individual enamel color. The gold wires then lay tweezers by hand to form the final image. Each dial is then enameled and fired 25 times in a special oven that reaches 900° Celsius.
To give the idea of the dedication you need, simply lay out the image with gold wires and the artisan will take up to 50 hours. Plus, there is a risk that the dial will be cracked at any time while firing in the oven. So only 10% of the dial will finish normally. But as you know, the results are unique. Due to the craftsman creation process, the two dials are not the same.
Century Cloisonné Dial Options
Currently, you can choose from 10 Cloisonné enamel dial designs. There was a duo of swallows and double dragons in the office. Plus, you’ll receive your Century Jump Hour with the Double Phoenix dial. This is also one of the 10 options available. However, we’ll check that in another article. We have selected 10 or two additional examples to provide an idea of the detailed work that Celadon HH offers. The Mandarin Duck dial above represents the Tang Dynasty, which first used the Mandarin Duck as a symbol of eternal love.
Another example is the Peacox Dial duo. “It depicts the indulgence of peacocks and peahens in lush peonies.” See the incredible details and beautiful colors. It’s truly a work of art. Traditionally, peacocks embody the grandeur, power and beauty of Chinese culture. As you can see, the distinctive peacock tail time and fine hands perfectly suit the design.
The double dragons dial is reminiscent of Delft Blue
These two dials are amazing, but they connect more to the two dials I had for review. One reason is that I adore Delft Blue. This blue and white tin glass pottery is found all over the Netherlands. I like and respect traditional delftware forms, but modern reinterpretation is my favorite. As a small piece of art in my home, I enjoy multiple modern Delft Blue pieces.
So you will soon realize that you liked the Double Dragon’s Dial, created in Ming Dynasty colors, in blue and white. The name shows you the basics, but the level of detail on these dials is unbelievable, so it’s not a complete story.
The double dragon features two famous mythical creatures fighting each other through fiery pearls representing the moon. Plus, they take up most of the space on either side, leaving a rather small blank in the center. Of all the 10 options available, it’s my absolute favorite.
The Crosonne duo of the Swallow Century is picturesque
The Swallows Dial duo depicts elegant scenes of birds and flowers paintings. This is an art form that dates back thousands of years to Chinese culture and reaches the peak of the dynasty. I love how this looks more calm compared to the Double Dragons dial. But look at the wonderful details of the petals. It’s very well done and the watch feels like a true picture on your wrist.
However, the signature hand is also special, so there is more than a dial. The two peacock tail hands have a large, circular open hint that stands out against busy dials. These hands can turn blue or purple with additional bespoke steps. Depending on the background, they may change the style of the watch immediately.
Celadon Caliber CH5
The Swallows model duo we received housed the brand’s flagship caliber CH5. This is a special creation by Lin Yong Hua, a master watch maker, for Celadon HH. The manual winding movement operates at 18,000 VPH and provides a 45-hour power reserve. The bridge, balance cock and click are designed to look like the feathers of the phoenix crested head and tail. Plus, it features Breguet Overcoil, Gold Chatons and beautiful spoke centre wheels.
The manual finish, including black polishing, Chinese scroll stripes, and meticulous hand bevels at inside and outside angles, is impressive. Celadon offers a variety of custom-made options, including rose and white gold finishes and frosted or striped bridges. Finally, the planetary gear mechanism and Grandesonny style winding click springs make the winding extremely smooth.
Celadon Caliber CH1
The Double Dragons model we had was equipped with an elaborate caliber CH1 at a more affordable price. This is also the creation of Lin Yong Hua, a master watch maker. Like the CH5, it is a manual winding movement that operates at 18,000VPH and provides a 45-hour power reserve.
Caliber CH1 features three-quarters of a bridge plated in rose gold, with curved lines and rubies set in the chat. Celadon offers Breguet Overcoil options for a fee. Additionally, you can select the The movement ended in white gold.
I’m wearing a Celadon HH Century Cloisonné watch
As always, it takes a lot of words to explain all the complicated details of a hot watch. But how do they translate to the wrist? My response was much shorter than all the words I spent describing the details. It’s great to wear a set of watches like this. I was able to immediately feel the craftsmanship involved in creating the watch. From the case finishing, to the recessed crown and the incredible dial, all the details run fantastically. The words I spend on these watches and all the images taken by our Fratello photographer Max are not close to having a Celadon HH century Closin on my wrist.
With a diameter of 42mm, the case is not small, but it sits well on the wrist thanks to its relatively slim overall profile. Furthermore, the leather straps that come with these watches are of very high quality and are well-selected colors. I have to say that Celadon did an amazing job combining the dial and the fantastic strap. I was impressed with the two watches we had, and I can imagine the Mandarin duck and the two swallow models being equally impressive.
Final Thoughts on the Celadon Century Collection
Overall, I have great respect for what Benjamin Chee is trying to achieve with Celadon Auto Hollogary. In the world of high-end watches, Switzerland is the dominant country. But as most of you know, we see smaller, independent brands that arise outside the traditional homes of watches. It was an absolute joy to see the Celadon century model. Their dials are completely different from the distance, but I really connected with them.
In addition to that, it was a joy to see the CH5 and CH1 calibers, particularly developed for Celadon. Buyers can choose the movement they want. Celadon HH also offers a say in the finish. This is not something we often see. It comes from Qi’s first quest to pay homage to Chinese tradition and craftsmanship through bespoke watches.
If you want a 1st century Cloisonné model with the CH5 movement, it’s available for $29,000. This includes white gold, blue or purple hands, Breguet’s overcoil and caliber finish.
If you prefer a first-century Croyson with the CH1 movement, it starts at USD 14,900. The optional Breguet Overcoil costs USD 2,000, while blue or purple hands add another USD 2,000. Finally, if you want to create a custom dial, you will be charged an additional $3,000 USD, regardless of the caliber you choose. It really would make it a unique personal watch.
Overall, looking at these Croison watches of the century was an impressive introduction to the Celadon Haute Hollogary. The Double Dragon piqued my interest in learning more about the historical connection between the Ming Dynasty and Delft Bleu, and the Swallows duo was a great example of the Singing Dynasty style art of the wrist. Certainly, these watches are great historical storytellers and I respect that very much.
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