Zach Brass French artist Laurent Grasso releases Bvlgari Octo Finissimo, a collaboration with Tadao Ando and Kazuyo Sejima. The case and bracelet have a matte midnight blue PVD coating. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition is limited to 200 pieces and costs CHF 18,900.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo collection is widely known for its record-breaking reference, producing the world’s thinnest watches (excluding the thinnest tourbillon). Back in April, Bulgari reclaimed the record for the thinnest mechanical watch ever made with the 1.7mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (yes, it’s also a COSC chronometer, surprisingly) . But GPHG awards and accolades aside, I especially love how Octo Finissimo serves as an artistic canvas for its collaborators.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, executive director of product creation at Bvlgari and designer of Octo Finissimo, is a great artist in his own right, creating ultra-thin baroque designs with highly faceted designs and minimalist lettering that exudes a delicate Italian flavor. We have debuted a unique one-piece bracelet watch that boasts a disc aesthetic. swagger. I once seriously considered the idea of having Fabrizio sketch Finissimo on my forearm and use it as the basis for a tattoo, but I was too chicken–to ask the man for permission. Both in terms of fear and the fear of the pain they will endure. This will be my first tattoo. But you’ve probably seen his sketches. For a watch geek like me, it was probably worth photographing.
Too many chefs in the kitchen can often be problematic, but Fabrizio and Bulgari have a long track record of collaborating with other artists to create amazing limited editions. Tadao Ando’s various Octo Finissimos are highly sought-after pieces, and command a considerable premium on the secondary market if, for some reason, one lucky owner happens to part with them. I vividly remember being fascinated by the Sejima edition when I saw it at Geneva Watch Days many years ago (along with wondering if it was easily scratched). Inspired by trains, I was in awe of its invisible, fully mirrored beauty.
The new Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition, which I’m still waiting to get my hands on, will probably be my favorite collaboration Octo Finissimo. What you see above is a titanium case and bracelet with a matte Midnight Blue PVD coating, although it’s clear that these renderings don’t do it completely justice. That alone is impressive, but the twist that Laurent Grasso has added to the dial is also very eye-catching.
Grasso, a French conceptual artist known for incorporating his love of science and space into his work in various mediums, aimed to give Octo Finissimo an iridescent, midnight look. “I envisioned a rainbow-colored cloud, a unique, almost magical shape,” Grasso explains. “Particles in suspension and millions of frozen water droplets diffract light, making clouds iridescent with multiple colors. I’m fascinated by this phenomenon, and my conversation with Fabrizio brings it to light. We started by looking for a way to recreate it on the dial.”
Like the case and bracelet, the dial and hands also feature a blue PVD coating with a cloud pattern created using silkscreen technology with metallic pigments. Even more than the aura and color of the cloud motif, what resonates with me is the fact that the canvas-like appearance of the clouds and the entire dial makes it look like a real painting when viewed up close. All luxury watches can be described as art, but this one is definitely art on the wrist.
Bvlgari and Grasso strive to consider every detail, and the micro-rotor caliber inside has a cloud silhouette perfectly reflected on the display case back, and the movement is oil-free. The eye can be fooled by spills. A very artistic, albeit cloudy oil spill. The surface of the sapphire caseback is engraved with Grasso’s signature and the words “LIMITED EDITION OF 200”.
I’ve seen some live images that I’m very jealous of that others have been able to capture, and the midnight blue of all the components looks mysterious yet much more vibrant than rendered. (if that makes sense). A lot of thought went into realizing the concept of this collaboration, but by effectively taking over a discreetly placed dial, Grasso has given Finissimo a high-pressure touch to the tenants that make Finissimo Finissimo. I am grateful that I was able to leave my mark without becoming one. However, my only concern is how the blue PVD coating will hold up over time. Then again, does that potential patina or scratch on its exterior become part of the work of art?
Some have complained that the Octo Finissimo’s large dial can give the illusion that the entire watch is larger than it actually is, but this element allows for the artistic collaboration and experimentation that Stigliani acknowledged. creates a ripe canvas for Therefore, I really hope that Bvlgari continues with these kinds of limited editions as they have always done.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition price and availability
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition is available now as a limited edition of 200 pieces. Price: CHF 18,900 (~USD 21,700)
Brand Bvlgari Model Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition Reference 104005 Case dimensions 40mm (D) x 5mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) Case material Blue PVD coated titanium Water resistance 30 meters Crystal Sapphire crystal, front and back dials Blue, silk Screen cloud pattern strap Blue PVD coated titanium bracelet, butterfly closure Movement BVL 138, manufactured in-house, micro-rotor automatic Power reserve 60 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Availability Limited to 200 pieces Price CHF 18,900
