Zach Brass Breguet’s new Type XX 2067RK is the first watch of its generation to be made from precious metal. It is also the first for the brand to use ceramic on the exterior of the bezel insert. Breguet is not releasing this model in limited quantities, and it is priced at $37,900 USD.
Almost exactly a year ago, we published a conversation with former Breguet CEO Lionel Marca. Lionel was recently appointed as the next CEO of Blancpain, and Gregory Kisling replaced Marca as CEO of Breguet. In this conversation, Kisling shared his vision for the future of the current Type XX generation. Kisling explained the parameters of what will always be a Type XX watch. For example, he explained that all Type XXs are chronographs, nothing more and nothing less. He also mentioned that the in-house caliber 728 series will be exclusive to the Type XX collection. However, not all of his remarks were of a restrictive nature. Marca also detailed that a new steel bracelet will be introduced (which was subsequently announced) and that as the Type XX collection expands, they will start experimenting with new materials. Today, this goal has been realized. The new Type XX 2067RK/Y0/9WU features ceramic for the first time in a Breguet watch, combined with 18K rose gold.
This release is primarily an aesthetic remix rather than a technical overhaul, with most specifications identical to the previous steel model of the latest Type XX generation. The case diameter remains at 42mm and the thickness at 14.1mm. The chronograph counter arrangement remains the same, with the oversized small seconds counter placed at the 3 o’clock position. The applied numerals and hands maintain the same shape, and the date continues to be placed at the controversial 04:30 position. What’s new about the Breguet Type XX 2067RK is that it is the first precious metal reference in the latest generation Type XX line. More importantly, it is Breguet’s first model to use ceramic in external components (ceramic bearings are used in Breguet movements).
Ceramic is used for the first time in the form of a bezel insert ring that is finished in blue to match the dial, while the numeral scale matches the color of the 18K rose gold case. The blue dial features a rich sunburst finish, adding an elegance befitting the precious metal composition. Dial scrutinizers will also be pleased to learn that the date disc is finished in white and blue, maintaining a more seamless blend. In summary, among the latest generation of Type XX watches, the 2067RK is the first to feature a ceramic bezel insert, a colored dial, and a dial that uses both a sunburst finish and azure on the counters rather than a completely matte finish.
Inside is once again Breguet’s Caliber 728, a high-beat, vertical clutch, column-wheel chronograph caliber with a 60-hour power reserve. It also features a patent-pending flyback system, ensuring constant force for perfectly resetting the central chronograph seconds hand, regardless of pusher pressure. The sunburst pattern bridge also returns, along with the black winding rotor. The Caliber 728 remains unchanged by not a micron in the Type XX 2067RK, and that’s totally fine.
Considering the reality that many precious metal Breguet models depreciate in the secondary market (not that the brand is really to blame for this), the high retail price (US$37,900) of this precious metal Type XX may lead budget-conscious buyers to look to the secondary market for past generation models. That being said, they don’t have the appeal of the current generation of high-beat movements, and certainly don’t have the honor of being the first Breguet watch to feature ceramic on its exterior. It’s great to see Breguet bundling the Type XX 2067RK with two interchangeable straps, an alligator leather strap and a fabric NATO strap, each with 18K rose gold hardware, and to see this collection, in which Breguet has undoubtedly invested, expand and grow. It’s a solid first step, but I’d love to see the teasers described by Lionel a Marca (such as case size variations) come to fruition and a fully ceramic-cased Type XX emerge.
Pricing and Availability for the Breguet Type XX 2067RK
The Breguet Type XX 2067RK/Y0/9WU is available now. Price: $37,900 USD
Brand Breguet Model Type XX Reference 2067RK/Y0/9WU Case Size 42mm (D) x 14.1mm (T) Case Material 18K Rose Gold Water Resistance 100 meters Crystal Sapphire front and back Dial Sunburst Blue Bracelet Blue alligator leather, 18K rose gold pin buckle
Material NATO, 18K rose gold pin buckle Movement Caliber 782, in-house, high-beat automatic Power reserve 60 hours Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph Availability Current price US$37,900
