Buffy Acacia
Bovet is one of my favorite brands. Since I have looked into the historyThe unashamed embrace of luxury is what I love about fine watchmaking, and false modesty is exhausting. So has Bovet finally caved to the sports-crazed masses and released a titanium watch on a bracelet? Not quite. The new Bovet Récital 12 certainly borrows aesthetic cues from that world, but it does so in a balanced way. The luxury and charm we expect from this home.
Incident
Titanium is not strictly a precious metalIt’s not even grade 5 titanium, a common alloy with excellent strength and corrosion resistance. It’s chosen primarily for its light weight, with a density around 60% that of stainless steel. Unless you’re one of those people who believes weight is an indicator of quality, a lightweight watch will always sit more comfortably on your wrist. Bovet’s Relentless Pursuit of Excellence This time-only watch required a pivot from complications to ergonomics, and this is evident in the choice of materials: while many watchmakers would accentuate the dark grey of titanium with a matte or sandblasted finish, Bovet opted for a fully polished case, allowing it to shine brightly.
Continuing the theme of comfort, the Bovet Recital 12 has a 40mm diameter and short lugs, making it easy to wear on a variety of wrists. Bovet has a number of larger watches packed with extra features, but the modest size was definitely the right choice here. The overall case height is 9.8mm, so it’s no problem slipping it under your cuff. The bracelet adds a sporty touch to the overall design, but it’s by no means a sports watch. It’s water resistant to 30 meters, so you should keep it away from pools and beaches. Grade 5 titanium is more scratch resistant than pure grade 2 titanium, but not as scratch resistant as stainless steel.
Dial
The Récital 12 has actually been around for a while, but previously followed Bovet’s usual flashy style. The dial of this model is very similar to its predecessor, but the monochrome approach to the exposed movement gives it a more industrial feel. It’s immediately clear that the majority of the Récital 12’s dial is actually the back of the movement, as the entire caliber has been inverted, placing a more visually dynamic display at the front. There’s a strong horizontal symmetry, with the balance wheel opposite one of the gears, and the swooping arch is also reflected from the power reserve indicator. On the left side is a three-tipped seconds hand, showing how the gear train culminates.
The main time indications are off-center on the dial, with leaf-shaped hands displaying only the hours and minutes. The Arabic numerals are playfully typefaced, appropriately playful yet clearly legible. The base guilloché pattern spirals out from the center, reminiscent of a peacock’s feathers, and is finally colored with a coat of colored lacquer. The Bovet Récital 12 is available in deep blue, green, and turquoise, all attractive and versatile colors.
bracelet
Since this is Bovet’s first watch on a bracelet, it’s great to see the brand aiming for something unique. At the same time, it’s not so eccentric that it stands out. Most of the titanium is brushed, which contributes to the overall sporty look, but the polished sections in the middle of the links help visually connect the case to the bracelet. The V-shaped taper is quite extreme, creating an almost slimming effect on the wrist. Also, because there is no connection between the links, the bracelet fits freely around the wrist as soon as it passes the end of the lugs.
motion
It may not have a great name, but the caliber 13BMDR12C2 is a great movement. As the dial makes clear, the entire thing is turned inside out, allowing for a spectacular view that is usually only available through the caseback. Conversely, the see-through caseback exposes the side of the movement that is usually hidden under the dial, allowing a peek at the keyless mechanism of the crown assembly. Both sides are exquisitely finished, with the curves of the Côtes de Genève matching the circular cutouts on the dial side. Clearly, no detail has been neglected. The frequency is 3Hz, but the main surprise on the spec list is the power reserve of 7 days or 168 hours. Considering that it is a time-only movement, 45 jewels and 227 parts are quite high.
Verdict
The new Bovet Recital 12, while not a sports watch, represents a philosophical shift for the brand: instead of a watch you simply wear to the opera or a fundraising gala, it’s a watch you could, in theory, wear every day to the office. The $35,000 price tag is undoubtedly surprising, given the lack of complications or precious metals, but it speaks to Bovet’s place in the world of fine Swiss watchmaking, and the beauty of the display.
Bovet Récital 12 Price and Availability
Bovet Récital 12 is now available. Price: $35,000 USD
Brand Bovet Model Récital 12 Case Size 40mm (width) x 9.8mm (thickness) Case Material Grade 5 Titanium Water Resistance 30 meters Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Dial Openwork Strap Titanium bracelet Movement 13BMDR12C2, in-house, hand-wound Power Reserve 168 hours (7 days) Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve Availability Available now Price USD 35,000
