In early March, I attended my second British Watchmakers’ Day at Lindley Hall (Royal Horticultural Halls) in Westminster. The sophomore effort had another great turnout and solidified the show as a genuine addition to the watch event calendar. With 45 UK-based watch brands being announced, there was plenty to enjoy for everyone. All brands have connections to the British Isles and are part of an alliance of British watch and watch manufacturers. Blemont also attended for the first time after being particularly absent last year. But it didn’t stop Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato from wandering around the halls and checking out their competitors and compatriot products. As anyone who attends can prove, it can be quite busy, and sometimes certain brands receive a lion’s attention share. I couldn’t see all the brands, but many people were excited about the British watchmaking.
It was a glorious, out of seasonal, warm March day in London. After a late night at The Fears Watches Gimlet Party, I was ready for the main event. The line had already appeared in watch fans in search of the number of limited edition works that could only be available on the day. Daan got into these models here, but it was definitely the studio Underd0G x Fears Gimlet that attracted the most interest. I’ll go with that reason, but grabbing the headline was an even more limited horror in the Brunswick 40.5mm Jump Hour Edward’s version. The 10 sterling silver case pieces were snapped quickly for a much higher price of £5,450. Elsewhere, Christopher Ward has doubled the range of the highly successful C1 BEL CANTO, with a variety of colours available. Bremont also exhibited the latest version, with all Heritage Propeller logos being phased out completely.
Studio Underd0G×Fears Gimlet Brunswick 38
The limited nature of the Gimlet and its attractive price range made it an essential purchase for the day. A total of 200 pieces were available for £1,000 each, with 100 am and 100 afternoon attendance. I was swept away by hype and had to buy my first fear. I missed the morning line but managed to hook one in the afternoon. Amazingly, there was no prioritization of the press. As a token of confidence that my gimlet was waiting for me at the front, I had to wait in line with just plastic lime slices. This was my first time doing it, and I was surprised at how great the case felt compared to the more premium Brunswick 38.
There were concessions made to cases that ended to keep prices down, but it still felt like a quality product. What’s also surprising was the atmosphere of movement. The Sellita SW210-1 can’t compare to the Brunswick 38’s top-grade ETA 7001 caliber, but when you manually wind the gymlet, it’s tactile and satisfying. The playful All-Lume dial and floating numbers also distinguish them from the Stalwart Fears catalog. That’s where Studio UnderD0G flavors come in. From what I’ve heard, Gimlet is the first in a cocktail-themed collaborative line between two British brands. The cherry above is a Calfskin leather strap from a strap tailor at the top. We look forward to the next edition of this exciting watch.
Bremont Terra Nova
Blemont was in attendance for the British Watchmakers’ Day for the first time. Bremont, who missed it in 2024, tried to join the alliance last year. The brand has a prominent position this year, somewhat symbolically, on a level higher than the other brands, with Roger W. Smith on the other side. As Blemont owner before the recent management change, I was a bit skeptical of the change in emphasis on watch production watches in the UK. New watches include land, sea and air exploration for marketing. However, the difficult spirit of previous leadership is lacking, and such a dramatic reform of rebranding makes it a difficult battle to rebuild. I hope Bremont is the best and I am grateful that bleeding cash reserves will be fruitless to pursue the goals of British athletic production. But that pioneering spirit has attracted me and many others to the brand.
Within the new collection, I was engrossed in the bronze Terranova 40.5mm power reserve. The dial design of the first-ever Terra Nova model is saturated with vertical gradient dials on a 100-piece bronze limited edition sandy beach. Reducing the size of numbers and logos goes a long way in allowing dial tones to breathe. I say this is the best of the new Blemont. And that was this subtle improvement from last year’s release and we would like to continue establishing its new trajectory. The limited nature of Terra Nova and its £4,450 price could be a barrier. The logo update is another controversial issue, but it gradually progressively progressively from the Heritage Propeller logo to look like Christopher Ward, with the new logo fully adopted and hopefully accepted.
Zero West S5E Spitfire Escape
Zero West is another brand that changes in the right direction. I have always admired Zero West, especially its creative and reference dial design. Visiting Emsworth Studios in southern England is one of my most enjoyable days covering the watch. The element that hinders me was the 44mm case, which makes up the majority of the catalogue. Perfect for many wrists, but the overhanging rugs were not mine. After a massive R&D, Zero West introduced S5E and S6E Spitfire Escapes. The brand is open to new audiences thanks to a tiny 42mm case with a more streamlined design. The flight instrument stimulates the S5E (time only) and S6E (chronograph) dials and casts a portion of the Spitfire Merlin engine onto the limited edition number plate on the case band.
My favorite is the £3,480 S5E, which nods to the series of watches and military styling in the “Dirty Dors” series, including the number of stencils and wide arrow symbols. For me, this is a case that sets the S5E and S6E apart from the previous Zero West Watch. The modular design of the 316L steel housing, internally known as “DualconcentricConstruction,” demonstrates the matte finish surface and the ability to mix and match in the future. You can even see alternating metals to highlight a lasting legacy and bring the story to life. In addition to the case, there is a new strap option that includes the first bracelet of Zero Waist. The three rows of construction is perfect for everyday wear. However, I’m more interested in integrated elastic straps because it feels good on the wrist and focuses on the case line.
Schofield Watch Company Obscura
The Show Field B6 Deep Blue, Shallow Green, and Sea Change Edition were new to the show, but my eyes couldn’t escape the Oscabra. The above model has a stunning caseback featuring the art of mermaid and enamel seas by Benjamin Guffy in a bluish bronze case. But around me there was this biomechanical object that ignored the conventions. Initially, I thought this case was made of a superconducting material, as seen with the Bamford x Black Badger Zenith El Primero Superconductor. In a hurry, Giles Schofield fixed me that Obscura uses Damascus Steel Case, but avoids the typical wood grain effect due to cellular structure. After many attempts to balance case processing with acid and oil, Scofield landed on a different victory formula for anything in the world of watches.
What further alienates Oskektura in the most amazing way is its sparse and unfamiliar dial design. But it all assembles seamlessly with grey dials that match the tone of the attractive case. Below you will find three enlarged portals to see the movement of the partially obscure manual winding unitas. Additional touches include the insignia of the luminous crown and multicolored light around the dial, revealed by a powerful light source. Sadly, the illuminated venue – the rarity of the clock event – hid the light show on the dial. Still, the Schofield Watch Company Obscura left a lasting impression on me as a rare sight in watchmaking. Limited to 40 units, Obscura is available for £9,558.
Honorable mention
There’s so much to look at, and this isn’t a thorough list. However, there were a few more highlights to mention. William Wood Dunkirk is still a great watch, and there are plenty of details I’ve come in here.
Vertex has a new expandable metal bracelet for the M36, or Fix-O-Flex. However, you can add a link and adjust it to your wrist.
I also saw the ANOMA A1 slate. It is wearable and surprisingly houses an automatic caliber, whilst brilliantly combining clever constructions to maintain its triangular shape.
Did you attend British Watchmakers’ Day this year? If so, what was your highlight? Please let us know in the comments below. See you next year.
