Borna Bosniak
There are many traditional techniques for decorating watches, but guilloche is one of the best known and most respected. The technique of engraving repeating patterns using special machines dates back to the 1500s, but it would be another two centuries before it was applied to metal. Guilloche is typically applied to watch dials (and sometimes other parts) using rose-engine lathes or straight-line engines, and is also an increasingly rare technique. reason? As always, this is partly due to the fact that traditional watchmaking is becoming increasingly difficult to break into, but also because there are no longer any companies making this manual precision machine. Ask any independent watchmaker who makes guilloché dials using traditional methods, and they’ll tell you just how precious these vintage machines really are. Names like Schaublin and Neuweiler und Engelsberger immediately perk up a machinist’s ears. People who don’t have the money or can’t find a dial have no choice but to make their own, which requires a completely different set of skills on top of the ones needed to make a dial in the first place. That is why guilloche is generally so highly regarded. We will introduce excellent brands and manufacturers in each category.
Atelier Wen Perception
Lately, a lot has been said about Atelier Wen’s dial production process, but the truth is this. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more affordable hand-engraved dial. In this case, it was hand-carved by Chen Yukai and his team of craftsmen using Chen’s self-designed machines. And that’s always been Perception’s biggest appeal. . The guilloché design itself isn’t very complex, but it’s well-crafted and has a distinctly different handmade feel, which helps justify the asking price. Price: From USD 3,288
Garrick S7
Next up is Garrick, an independent British watchmaker. The company takes pride in hand-manufacturing a vast number of parts in-house. For one, the brand’s guilloché dial is decorated with both rose and linear engines, creating multiple patterns on the same dial. The Garrick S7 is the most affordable option, with the choice of handset, dial color, and opening caseback being up to the customer, and the movement being an improved vintage Unitas caliber. Price: From £6,500 (~US$8,500)
Reine V38 Guilloche
Torsti Laine approaches traditional watchmaking with a modern mindset, which is not surprising given his background in computer science. Although he doesn’t hesitate to use very high-tech CNC machines to create some of his watch decorations, completely handmade products are also a big part of his in-house dial manufacturing process. . The V38 Guilloche pattern is one such example, and is available in three different configurations, each containing three different Guilloche patterns. Of course, everything is cut by hand. Underneath the dial is a top-grade Vaucher 5401, but Laine also engraves the rotor in-house. Top tip: If you’re happy with just one guilloché dial (and a slightly larger case), you can save a few thousand Swiss Francs off the asking price and opt for the Laine Gelidus 3. Price: 11,500 Swiss Francs (~13,000 USD)
Benzinger GAP 1
While there are companies that specialize in guilloche, such as Metalem, Comblémine, and Décors Guilochés, it is rare to find a serious watchmaker willing to produce dials for other brands as well. Jochen Benzinger is one of the few exceptions, choosing to create stunning dials for one of the three brands to which he lends his name (the other two being Jaeger & Benzinger and Grieve & Benzinger). When he’s not spending his time, this German craftsman creates dials. Chronoswiss, Glashütte Original, Moritz Grossmann, these are just some of the things he is actually allowed to name. The Benzinger brand is the most attractive model among the three brands mentioned above, and the GAP 1 is its most attractive model. The name is an acronym for “German-Austrian Partnership” and refers to the movement, which was developed in collaboration with Habring². But we’re here, of course, to talk about dials. GAP 1 comes with a full suite of Benzinger’s most impressive works. Price: From CHF 12,500 (~USD 14,500)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor Golden Sienna
Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the few manufacturers that is vertically integrated and can produce all components in a number of different workshops. Vaucher is well known for its movement subsidiary, but when it comes to dials, it’s Quadrance et Abillages. As well as Benzinger, QeH also manufactures dials for many other brands (although Trilobe appears to be the only one publicly confirmed). My favorite is the Grain Dolge pattern on the Tonda PF model. With this in mind, what watch could make that statement better than the Tonda PF Golden Siena and its no-date layout? This particular guilloché pattern isn’t as dimensional as the others on this list, but its convention Gender and simplicity are two different things. The case and movement are also very nice and provide a great experience on the wrist. Price: 23,500 Swiss Francs (~27,000 USD)
Andersen Geneva Jumping Hour 40th Anniversary
Introduced to commemorate Andersen’s 40th anniversary, the new Jumping Hour celebrates the long line of Jump Hour watches that defined Andersen’s own work as well as those of other brands. Instead of a brass blank, the dial is made from 21K blue gold, with a hand-carved losanges magiques (magic diamond) pattern taking up most of the space. For added contrast, the minute subdial has a classic hobnail pattern. That’s enough. There are no extraneous information to distract from the amazing guilloche. However, the rotor is hand-engraved with a grain d’orge pattern, so you can see a bit of a guilloché Easter egg. Price: 37,800 Swiss Francs (~43,000 USD)
Breguet Classic 7137
If you’re talking about guilloche with big brands, Breguet needs to be part of the conversation. Considering that Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of the first (if not the first) to introduce this technique into watchmaking, this is another pioneering effort by the legendary watchmaker. Of course. Armed with an enviable collection of manual machines, including the Rose Engine, Breguet artisans have created every imaginable guilloché pattern. The Classic 7137 features a unique asymmetrical dial, but I wouldn’t really complain if the basketweave, clous de Paris, and Damier guilloché patterns didn’t give it incredible dimension. It might have been. As a side note, I was actually going to give this spot to the Breguet 7337, but the latest update has significantly simplified the dial and downgraded it to a single pattern. Price: $46,000
JN Shapiro’s Resurrection
One look at Joshua Shapiro’s dials and it’s easy to see why he is considered one of the greatest living figures in the guilloche world. He started out making dials for other brands, but by 2018 he introduced the Infinity series that put JN Shapiro on the map. The Resurgence continues this tradition with even better finishes and is proud to be a fully American made watch, interestingly also available in tantalum. Its unique dial consists of several rings that step down from the outer minute track to the center as separate pieces of metal, each representing Shapiro’s signature infinity pattern. Please be careful. The dial is surrounded by a barley pattern, and the small seconds dial has a moiré pattern. Price: From USD 70,000
Voutilainen Vint-8
As you read through these buying guides that focus on very traditional decorating techniques, you’re sure to notice the same names popping up. Whether it’s the enamel work, the movement decoration or the engine rotation, Kari Voutilainen cannot be left out. Vingt-8 is Voutilainen’s first ground-up creation, and while it is studded with hand-crafted components upon closer inspection, it is designed to be unobtrusive and simple. This particular model with a silver dial is so delicate that the intricate guilloché pattern isn’t immediately obvious, but you better believe it’s there and it’s almost perfect. Of course, you can also customize the Vingt-8 to your liking, in case you don’t like the Clou de Paris perimeter, wave inner, and basket weave sub-seconds. Price: From USD 108,000
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Roger W. Smith UK
Roger Smith’s Great Britain was released in 2014 at a time when my watch obsession was very formative. Still, I distinctly remember reading about it and it was described as being “the most intricate hand-crafted dial ever made.” Considering it is made from over 30 hand-finished sterling silver pieces, all of which are decorated with various guilloché patterns, forming a quarter of the GB flag. This explanation starts to make sense. Beyond the dial, it was also the first watch to feature a Daniels Co-Axial escapement developed by Smith, featuring a single wheel between brushed, hand-engraved movement plates. unique pieces
