Borna Bosniak
While brightly colored dials understandably attract a lot of attention due to their inherent shock value, the majority of buyers who only buy one or two watches in a lifetime are drawn to gray, black, or white. It’s no wonder that there’s a high chance of it happening. A gray dial might not give you the same instant wow factor as a pink dial, but that doesn’t mean a gray dial is boring or less finished. That doesn’t mean you have to. And the six watches on this list prove that.
Furlan Mari Mecha Quartz Rosso Grigio Ref. 1085-A
The 1940s Tasti Tondi that Furlan Mali relies on as inspiration for his Mechaquartz chronographs is such a solid base, it’s no wonder it looks so handsome. The Rosso Grigio Ref. 1085-A incorporates an unusual breathing scale, realized on a reddish multi-gray tone dial. However, please note that it looks a little redder in the photo above than it actually is. With its affordable retail price and best-in-class case finish, it’s hard to pass up. Price: CHF 555 (~US$620, excluding VAT), available from T+T shop
nomos club sport neomatik smoke
Nomos is known for putting a twist on Bauhaus primary colors, but the three fall Clubsport Neomatik models released together remain underrated due to their outstanding dials. The sunray-brushed main dial and silver sub-dials look great and perfectly capture the minimalist appeal that NOMOS strives for. Featuring an ultra-thin automatic movement on the back and a water resistance of 200 meters despite being only 8.5 mm thick, it’s one of the most attractive daily wear pieces I can think of. Price: $3,700
Tudor Black Bay 58 925
When Tudor released a diver’s watch with a sterling silver case, many were skeptical about how the metal surface would tarnish over time, especially when used in salt water. As it happens, three years later, this model seems to be working perfectly fine, but it’s certainly not the most popular model in the series. This is a shame, considering the warm taupe/gray dial and bezel insert may be the best-looking color in the Black Bay collection. Price: $4,300
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41
Applying a half-baked color over the swirling iris texture of the Alpine Eagle’s dial gives a very decent result. This watch is featured in both the Best Blue Dial and Best Green Dial buying guides, and this silver-grey completes the trio. Thanks to the polished mid-links and bezel screws, the highly reflective parts of the dial are even better integrated into the overall look. Price: $14,800
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Parmigiani Fleurier’s intricate grain d’orge hand-engraved guilloché dial is a sight to behold. This small pattern almost disappears in certain lights, especially in muted colors like Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Similar to the Black Bay, the Parmigiani Fleurier lends warmth to this dial, blending well with the distinctive golden highlights of the sub-minute hand and the very subtle shine of the fluted platinum bezel. Price: 29,500 Swiss Francs (~33,000 USD)
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Ranging from brown-grey to blue-gray, Lange’s titanium-cased Odysseus dial seems to match the coolness of the lightweight metal. Not only is the shade particularly attractive, but considering this is a Lange we’re talking about, the dial is also finely finished with both azurage and graining, topped by polished indexes and hands. It has some highlights. The day and date display may be debatable, but it’s definitely in Lange’s design spirit, and even if getting your hands on the Odysseus is a bit more difficult, few people will complain about it. Probably not. Price: $56,500
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Grand Seiko SBGV245 “Grey Beast”
You probably wouldn’t expect Grand Seiko to make the “Best X-Dials” list with anything other than stunning pieces inspired by nature, but the Gray Beast bucks that trend. Not only is this a perfect example of how great a sporty quartz Grand Seiko can be, especially considering the chic flat-brushed dial and bezel combination, but I also love this Grand Seiko. There is also a personal connection. This was the first Grand Seiko I really fell in love with, and I remember scouring local boutiques and second-hand websites looking for an affordable Grand Seiko. For a while, I was reluctant to pay high premiums due to demonetization, but seeing as prices seem to be stabilizing, I wonder if now is my chance, or if it won’t be like that forever. No. Price: ~3,500 USD
