For those who like the classic appeal of matte black dials and clean tool watch designs, a blue dial may be your first opportunity to dip your toe into the seductive ocean of colorful dials. A deep blue dial is very effective at highlighting the polished details of the steel case, and can transform a rugged sports watch into an elegant wrist companion for more formal occasions. In the world of diver watches, the blue abyss of the ocean is often reflected on the dial. Who knows? For those who are deeply involved as desk divers like me, the dark abyss may inspire a true sense of adventure.
Yes, this is a very subjective (and slightly rule-bending) roundup, but to me, these watches have the best deep blue dials of 2023. I think you’ll agree with at least two of my picks. Plus, to keep it diverse, I’ve included everything from sturdy dive watches to chic timepieces with integrated bracelets. Will one of these be your stepping stone into the world of bold, colorful watches? Read on at your own risk!
Omega Seamaster 300M 60th Anniversary James Bond
Let’s jump right into this Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and start cheating. This watch was released before Christmas 2022. But for me, it’s still one of the best Omega watches with a deep blue dial in 2023. Yes, I’ve been crazy about this watch for a long time and I loved the titanium version, but I found it a little too vintage. But this one is resolutely modern. The 60s touch of the mesh bracelet is still there. For me, this watch is one of the best in the industry. But the Bond connection is subtle and can only be seen in the animation on the caseback that covers the coaxial charm. The only other 007 Easter egg is on the bezel. The ceramic bezel is fully luminous, and where the triangle would normally be, there is a glowing green “60” (representing Bond’s silver screen anniversary), matching the Superluminova on the minute hand. This is the first time that the Bond connection has remained as understated and sophisticated as Mr. Bond himself. The watch is still available to purchase for 8,900 euros.
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
The TAG Heuer Skipper is a sharp reissue of a colorful retro reference. Vintage fans may complain that the 39mm case is too big, and I get it. The dramatic lug angles and realization of the round case make it closer to the original. On the other hand, the 39mm may suit modern tastes better than the old-fashioned 36mm. But here, in a wearable 46mm (lug-to-lug) long case, the dial is the star. The well-worn (yet fine for me) term “pop of color” seems too modest to use here. The new TAG glass box design features small orange-red luminous dots on the outside of each index to match the tips of the new sword-shaped hands. There’s a proper party on the dial, especially with the seafoam green 9 o’clock register and the iconic three-tone 15-minute regatta counter. Do you like the date window at 6 o’clock? The frame features a sharply cut second hand at 6 o’clock that is just as attractive as the rest of the dial. The price for this model is set at 6,600 CHF.
Longines Heritage Flagship Moonphase
The moon phase window at 6 o’clock is a delightfully irrelevant but still attractive complication. You probably won’t need it, but it does bring a certain charm. The moon phase fits right in with the mid-century design of this flagship model. This time, it has been reduced from the slightly larger 40mm of the 1832 model to a nice 38.5mm with the addition of a new dark blue dial. Rex called it a classic gentleman in his article on the elegant silver dial version, and I agree. But I love the monochromatic blue vibe. The sprinkling of silver stars and crescent moons further enhances the night sky vibe. The clean case design with angular Carrera-style lugs pairs well with Longines’ exclusive caliber L889.5. Although it is relatively thick at 12.4mm, it is enough for a charming proposal. It is tall, but the price is reasonable at 3,300 euros.
IWC Ingenieur
IWC does blue dials so well that half of our readers would classify this as green, but I choose petrol blue. Even if IWC also called it green, my contrarian nature would come out again. In low light, under a dark blue shirt, the chameleon-like hue leans toward blue (Thomas called it aqua, but it is technically a type of blue). There is some debate about the bracelet and clasp of this sleek new 40mm Ingenieur, but I would still wear it happily. The bold case and wide bezel make the dial smaller, which means it wears closer to a 39mm watch. The sawtooth checkerboard dial plays beautifully with the light, and the thin bevels accentuate the bold case sides. It’s slim at 10.7mm thick, and the caliber 32111 is beautifully decorated and beats worthy, even when hidden behind the case. It also boasts an impressive power reserve of 120 hours. IWC did a great job! If anything, I think the price of 12,900 euros is a little more expensive than I would have liked.
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph
Grand Seiko is a master of dial texture and has dabbled heavily in lacquer work, though it’s mostly been limited to three-hand designs and GMTs. But all that changes with the mechanical Tentagraph. The case belongs to the contemporary Evolution 9 collection, and this model is the first high-beat chronograph in the range. It’s by no means small, but it’s slimmer than the previous chunky 45.3mm chronograph. It’s kept to 43.2mm and nicely finished in lightweight, strong titanium. The feel of the Tentagraph is medium but strong, and the 9SA5 movement and black DLC bezel reinforce that image.
The bark-like texture is wonderful, and the three recessed navy registers add plenty of interest to an otherwise busy dial.
But we’re talking about deep blue dials, and this watch is a perfect example. The bark-like texture is wonderful, and the three recessed navy registers give a zen-like depth to a cluttered dial. You may not need the 72-hour power reserve, and the comfort of a Grand Seiko will make it your everyday favorite. Is 14,300 euros expensive? Not if you consider it a good Daytona alternative. Trust me, it is. Indeed, it exceeded the 10,000 euro budget for this article by 43%. Sorry to the picky eaters. Trust me, it’s worth it!
Zenith Defy Skyline
I am a fan of Zenith’s buzzing small seconds at 9 o’clock. The frivolousness of the movement in tenths of a second may seem like an irresponsible placement, but I find it very appealing. The dimpled dial is a great alternative to pique, clous de Paris, or other guilloché patterns. The smooth, stepped surface of the dial at 9 o’clock stands out and is a detail I love. The chunky version of Zenith’s hot integrated bracelet pairs well with the bold faceted design of the case. At 41mm, it’s a great choice for a medium-sized watch. If you prefer a sportier look, Zenith also includes a matching blue rubber strap, making this indigo version the perfect package. As Thomas says, the crown is not my favorite detail, but I’d still be happy to wear it on my wrist. At 8,300 euros, it’s a great example of Zenith’s modern side.
Bvlgari Octo Roma
Have we had enough of Bvlgari’s ultra-thin stunners yet? I may not be a big fan of the matte-blasted case, but I still like the Octo. The more accessible and slightly chunkier Octo Roma makes a nice addition to the deep blue textured dial. The Roma body is packed with the angular and octagonal flair we know and love. All this in a still-slim 11.35mm case. The petite Clous de Paris pattern is a nice new twist amidst a motley mix of bezel and case shapes. I would have liked a blue date wheel, but since this Octo is about 40% cheaper than the Finissimo, it’s a tolerable detail. And while it has the same 41mm diameter, the lack of a square case makes it look more compact. The Superluminova on the hands and indexes underscores Bvlgari’s sport-luxury ambitions with a 100m water resistance. How much does it cost? It will be 7,900 euros.
So, what do you think, my tool watch-obsessed Fratelli? Would you be willing to move away from matte black and towards one of the best deep blue dials of 2023? Let me know in the comments. Also, let me know if you have a favorite watch that didn’t make it on the list.
