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The Breguet signature transcends the brand and is found throughout watchmaking, demonstrating why Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of (if not the) greatest watchmaker of all time. Whenever a Cartier or Patek Philippe watch features its eponymous signature, such as Breguet numerals or hands, collector interest tends to make the watch highly desirable and expensive. Today we’ll focus on the former. Here are six of the best Breguet numerals watches you can buy right now.
Baltic MR Classic PVD Gold
The Baltic MR Classic (originally MR01) is a classic-sized micro-rotor automatic with a diameter of 36 mm, a thickness of 9.9 mm and a lug distance of 44 mm, which already has great appeal. But the top point is Etienne Marek’s wise choice to incorporate Breguet numerals into the design. The good thing is that you can put two cherries on it, and the other good thing is that this watch costs well under $1,000. My personal recommendation is PVD Gold Black. It is timeless and the stable simulation of a solid gold watch enhances the sense of luxury. Price: 545 EUR (~570 USD), available from T+T shop
Farlan Mari Gray Sector
Expectedly, along with Baltic, Furlan Mali will also offer affordable watches incorporating Breguet numerals. It’s more than double the price of the Baltic, but internally it’s even better, including a 68-hour Swiss La Joux Perret automatic movement. What’s more, the 37.5 mm diameter, 10.5 mm thick, 46 mm lug-to-lug width case, with its expertly crafted oxhorn lugs, is beautifully vintage-inspired, reducing the cost of a complex case. I am. The only caveat here is that I don’t have a full set of Breguet numerals, but I like the twist on the dial that blends numbers and sectors. Price: CHF 1,250 (~USD 1,380), available from T+T Shop
longines master collection
Stepping up from the big brands, Longines caught the attention of watch enthusiasts with the Master Collection Small Seconds, which featured a brushed salmon dial with Breguet numerals engraved on the surface. The case measures 38.5 mm x 10.2 mm x 44.9 mm, falling somewhere between the Baltic MR Classic and the Farlan Mari Gray Sector. Inside is the L893 caliber (ETA A31, or 2892 base) with a 72-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Price: $2,500
Hubring² Erwin
Back to small independent companies, Austria’s Habring² makes watches that I like the look of but would never buy. And that’s my reason why so many people find it appealing. The Irwin features a deadbeat seconds complication. This means that despite being a mechanical watch, the central seconds hand keeps time rather than sweeping, thanks to the in-house A11S movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The 38.5 mm diameter and 9 mm thick stainless steel case is available in a variety of dial configurations. One of them, in particular, is white lacquer with blueprinted Breguet numerals. Coupled with the blue hands, this smart watch is sure to be a conversation starter at watch meetings. Price: $6,800
Breguet Classic 5177 5177BB/2Y/9V6
It would be a crime to talk about the best Breguet numeral watches and not include Breguet. This watch may seem like an odd choice among the brand’s collection, finished with an enamel dial without guilloché. However, I have seen this metal watch and the blue enamel is stunning, the Breguet numerals are perfectly set on the face, and the color-matched date window is perfectly finished. The 18K white gold case measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.8 mm in thickness, and is powered by the elaborately decorated in-house 777Q movement with a power reserve of 55 hours. Even if you miss the lack of guilloché on the dial, you’ll be happy to find it on the winding rotor. Price: $27,900
Hida Naoya Shoten NH Type 1D-3
Disclaimer – The website states that you can order this watch, but it will take several years to arrive due to the low volume production. That being said, the best things in life are worth waiting for. The independent Japanese law firm Naoya Hida is controversial because some of its work does not pass California standards. The 3019SS uses a Valjoux 7750 running train with the automatic winding and chronograph components removed. This is an 18K yellow gold case with the brand’s first hand-carved decoration by metal engraver Keisuke Kano. Inspired by the fountains and waves of the Art Deco era, the design is sculpted using simple yet powerful carving techniques. The NH Type 1D-3 also introduced a German silver dial with friction plating. This dial is specifically handcrafted and incorporates a stunning set of hand-engraved Breguet numerals as well as 60 yellow gold minute markers. The Hida Naoya logo is hand carved. Only three pieces will be produced between 2024 and 2025, making this a truly special watch for those in the know. Price: $56,700
