Tom Austin
The appearance of the watch is subjective. Some may love something, others may hate it. That’s fine. Interestingly, we could easily be wrong too. Our minds also trick us into thinking we hate something. For example, I thought I wasn’t on a square clock. But after all, thanks to the Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic, that’s definitely not the case. The combination of dark tone, texture and versatile eccentricity provided the wear and changed me like the other watches I’d worn. The hips are the ones that turn into squares.
What the heck is that?
Bell & Ross unveiled the BR-03 skeleton collection at Watches & Wonders this year, taking inspiration from flying instruments, marking the culmination of the brand for nearly 20 years, and creating pilot watches with a undoubtedly iconic look. This collection consists of three pieces, one of the rarer and most special is the Skeleton Lum Ceramic, the one we have here. As someone who wears a different watch all the time, it’s not uncommon for people who know I’ll ask me about them, but this has drawn a considerable audience. Even when a stranger is asking me at the supermarket, I can’t remember when I last wore the watch that sparked many conversations. It’s not that it’s a particularly exaggerated watch – it’s just unusual, but in the greatest way.
The BR-03 Skeleton Collection consists of two ceramic models and one steel model, which serves as the flagship piece of the trio. I was initially hesitant about the case size. At 41mm, it doesn’t look that bad, but the perfectly square proportion means each corner protrudes to give the watch a much larger look. But on my 7-inch wrist I wear it very well, mainly due to its relatively thin 11.25mm thickness and overall flat profile. Unlike metal watches, ceramic cases have the ability to keep you cool without keeping you cool, and you’ll feel amazing with the touch.
The square case and utilitarian finish give the watch a strong, robust look that looks like a wrist-mounted vault of some sort. I was surprised that this watch has a push-in crown instead of screw-in, but it still manages a 100-meter water resistance rating, making it suitable for lightweight aquatic adventures. Flat sapphire crystal does an amazing job of keeping reflections at bay thanks to its anti-reflective coating and is very close to the dial.
Glow violently or go home
The main part of the appeal of the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic is the party piece, the dial. Finished with the same sandblasted textured ceramic as the case, the watch looks like a unified piece of integrated ceramic. This is a cool effect. As the name suggests, it is a skeletonized dial, but the dial aperture is screened by a colored sapphire.
Like everyone else in the collection, the skeletonized dials are split into X motifs, with each opening being a glorious arrangement of rooms. This emits an impressive, futuristic glow that reminds you of something that might be seen in Star Wars rather than in your wrist. It’s a Super Luminova X1 C3, so it lasts for a long time, and the clock actually illuminates the corners of the room when it’s on the nightstand. Bell & Ross Experimenting Lume It’s not surprising they’re demonstrating now, as it’s going to take a while. Level of learning with that.
Form over function
Functionality may not be what we all want in our watches. Often we like to see brands express their creativity through design and continue to recognize it while pushing the boundaries of what they can do with it. That’s exactly what Bell & Ross did here. We have a watch that is clearly not designed by the committee.
Reading time is not really a top priority on this watch, so B&R decided to run on the BR-Cal at Serratabase. 328 automatic movement. But again, they decided that form was needed, so the movement architecture is visibly harmonious through the skeletonized windows, as it is overhauled to mimic the X-design of the dial. At a thorough inspection, this kind of attention to detail is great.
Close thoughts
What is BR-03 Skeleton Ram Ceramic? It’s definitely not a dress watch, it’s easy to read enough to be a functional pilot tool, and there’s no underwater diver either. It definitely suits more casual styles. The comfortable, wide elastic straps pair better with T-shirts and jeans rather than suits. But it fills in the slots of who’s collection as the beginning of a unique conversation every day. This is a joy to wear. After all, I found out I like Square Watch.
An enthusiastic room can be a distraction for watches, but with the BR-03 it becomes part of its appeal, and that’s what I like most about watches. When touched upon when it was first released, I criticized the price level because I felt that what you got for £5,900 didn’t balance the book. But I think the price makes more sense, especially considering you spend time with it and understand its habits and rarity.
Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton Pricing and Availability
The Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic is currently available through Bell & Ross Retailers, which is limited to 250 units. Price: $10,800, £5,900
Brand Bell & Ross Model BR-03 Skeleton Ram Ceramic Reference BR03A-LM-SKCE/SRB Case Dimensions 41mm(d) x 11.25mm(T) Case Material Microblasted Black Ceramic Water Resistant 100m 100m Crystal Crystal Anti-Elferre Frecty Cart Coating 328, Selita Base, Auto Power Reserve 54 Hours Function 250 Pieces Limited to Availability of several hours, seconds
£5,900
