Borna Boschunjak
Since the success of Kickstarter, Atelier Wen has been trying to offer features that usually see what is usually seen at prices that more enthusiasts can comfortably buy. Although impressive, the success of perception does not fully convey the perfect narrative of their creativity, but today it changes. If my Chinese translation skills are standard, meet Atelier Wen Ancestrajao, whose name means Scared Dragon. Looking at the dial reveals where the inspiration came from, but there’s more to it than just eye contact, as it has become the standard for Atelier Wen’s dialing. Apart from the complex finishing, the fact that this ancestor is a proposal for a completely different market segment from perception is also evident from the choice of movement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wahiuhg5uo
Dial
But before we get into it, let’s take a closer look at that dial. At first glance, it may seem like a lot is going on. The baguette cut markers are alternating with calligraphy (but printed) numbers by artist Elaine Wong, with alternative styles that have not yet been announced, with odd hours being designed with diamonds and Western Arabic numbers (of @onehourwatch fame).
It all comes from the background of this, a stunning round of the finestness of the epic Feu-Enamell. Created by Kong Lingjun’s workshop (founder of Koncise, the Enamel-First Watch Brand), the 925 Silver Blank is covered with first hand before undergoing the painstaking process of Grand Feu Enameling. In addition to the uneven surface, to make sure they don’t have too easy time to do it, the Ancestra has a noticeable slope towards the edge of the dial, from pale silver to deep blue. How difficult is they to make accurately? Now, Atelier Wen is quoting a 50% failure rate, so he should draw a picture.
It’s all going well, but I left the best, or at least my favorite, to the end. Ancestra’s hands are just gorgeous and surprisingly 3D. Each inclined side is scalloped and transitions to the top surface of the matte, and together they form an elegant fauille shape, almost double the thickness of a regular watch hand, achieving this complex shape.
case
There’s a lot going on with the dial, but the added thickness isn’t translated so badly into the case. The diameter of 38mm and lug-to-lug 46mm are ideal daily wearer dimensions. Adding a very dome crystal to the equation, the thickness is 11.3mm.
Interestingly, Atelier Wen gave the Ancestra a screw-down crown and a water resistance of 100 meters. This is at odds with that complicated (dare I say) Haute Horlogerie Hallmarks, but hey, you don’t see me complaining about the extra robustness. Speaking of the crown, it is once again surprisingly intricate, with the sculptures surrounding it and the Atelier Wen logo signed in blue.
The overall design was highly thought to reduce the perceived perception of overwhelming thickness using a convex bezel that stepped into the lug, a notable feature of the case (see what I did there). Created as separate pieces, they screw into the sides of the case with visible polished bolts with a “circulation” motif, and also create accurate transitions between alternating finished surfaces. Like some perceptual models, the Ancestra is cased with 904L stainless steel, so expect the polished bevels and bezels to truly shine. The top-down shape is reminiscent of a more modern cornsuduvash style and is a concrete reminder of what comes in some of Andersen Geneve’s modern products.
strap
As good straps can completely change the way a watch feels, bad things can make it even worse. Thankfully, it’s not something you have to worry about with your ancestors. The included Epsom pattern numbers are not only a suitable stylistic choice that does not steal lightning from the dial, but the 20mm lug of the watch opens you to the world of options in the secondary market world. However, if you are swapping, you should check the new strap taper at 16mm, as Atelier Wen also pays close attention to the buckle design with handmade bevels as a highlight.
Movement
The big development of Atelier Wen, and what you can witness via the Sapphire Caseback, is the movement situation. The recognition made the most of the Dandong SL1588, but monitoring this caliber is not surprising (Puns On Fire today, isn’t it?), and they chose to upgrade to the Pequignet EPM03. Caliber was launched in 2021 as Pequignet’s third in-house movement and served as a slimmer and less complicated foil for the flagship Caliber Royal. The Pequignet lineup features patents like Pellaton inversion in automatic assembly, located under the initial moniker of the caliber.
The manufacturer states that about 70% of the ingredients are sourced in France, while others are of Swiss origins, but for Atelier Wen’s purposes, the movement is engraved in ancient Chinese manuscripts that properly deal with the theme of creation, taking into account the name of the clock. Although machines have been applied, such intricate sculptures are an impressive way to adorn the movement surrounded by the frosted surfaces of the main bridge. For exposed ratchet wheels and balance cocks, Atelier Wen chose the traditional black polish, but the open rotor is gold and highlighted in the same engraved pattern as it appears on the ancestral dial.
verdict
If you’re sitting quite a bit like Atelier Wen did, if you sell out insignificant times for each new limited recognition model, you’ll be allowed to stick to the gun until something really special comes. Ancestra feels like this one special thing. It proves that brand leadership was not scared of as the steadily rising prices of recognition stepped into a distinctly very different bracket. Again, Atelier Wen’s ability to bring together a team of artisans and designers to create works of fascinating designs is impressive.
But most importantly, Ancestra does not appear to have actually cut out any notable corners, and the creator’s vision was translated into the final product without compromising. Certainly, I was able to ride people who say they benefited from a watch thickness of less than 10mm – perhaps manual movement and less water resistant – but there are very few moans when it comes to everyday wearable watches.
Pequignet’s move choice obviously really surprised me. I put the Pequignet COO somewhere between the entry-level Sellita and Vaucher’s VMF3002, but it’s hard to fully quantify as it’s not used anywhere other than Pequignet’s watches. Comparing their ancestors to them, whether they’re fighting with one hand or tied behind their back, I think it’s a battle that Atelier Wen can easily win.
Atelier Wen AncestraJiāo Prices and availability
At the time of publication, Atelier Wen AncestraJiāo is only available in the 7-day order window. Price: USD 5,850
Brand Atelier Wen Model AncestraJiāo Case Dimensions 38mm(D) x 11.3mm(T) x 46mm(LTL) Case Material 904L Stainless Steel Water Resistant 100m, Under-Screw Crown Crystal (S) Sapphire Front and Back Dial
Gradient Grand Feweynamel with hammer silver and baguette cut diamond
Lug width 20mm strap leather strap, stainless steel pin buckle movement Pekkenet EPM03, automatic power reserve 65 hours function Limited to 7 days order window price.
