Andrew McCutchen
Inside the box I unboxed in the video below is a watch released this year. This is from a microbrand that has never released a watch before, but it still commands a minimum 50% and up to 100% premium over retail price. So, in the blink of an eye, the value of the brand’s first watch rose by at least 50% since its launch. That means two things. First, the price was undervalued, and second, this watch is hot. This is Toledano & Chan B/1.
I have a responsibility to not only drink the Kool-Aid, but also to make the Kool-Aid. I’m incredibly fascinated not only by the shape and design of this Brutalism-inspired watch, which I’ve never seen before, but also by the style of watchmaking it currently represents: an unusual shape. I fell into the trap of being rejected. And the design is much more avant-garde than the big brands. I saw this watch for the first time in Geneva and you know what I did? I bought it.
I bought it at list price and from the gentleman who made it. Alfred Chan is one half of the brand and the designer of this watch. His brutalist partner in crime, Phil Toledano, oddly enough, developed their entire relationship over Zoom in designing this watch. But before we talk about the watch itself, let’s take a look at the box designed for the watch. It looks like it’s made of hard concrete, and it certainly feels heavy. Interestingly, there are inclusions within it, giving it a natural and raw feel, like a strange concrete coffin. The irregular shape shares the muse of the B/1 case, which was inspired by the windows in the Met Breuer building. It looks like it’s almost 1:1.
This is a watch unlike any other I’ve seen. In the rendering, it looked like a slightly disfigured Rolex King Midas – the model that inspired Alfred and Phil – and no doubt Phil had a maniacal collection of Midas and Cellini Rolexes. Ta. However, when you hold it in your hands, its volume, dimensions, and actual shape look closer to the Star Wars X-Wing Fighter.
I had no intention of buying it. I appreciate how different watches can be and how bold, creative and exciting their designs can be. Sellita movements are certainly not unusual, but they have quite a few quirks in appearance, as you’ll soon see. It has the distinction of being a “Destro” watch, worn with the crown on the left side.
The case has this weird – but very cool – bevel on the wrist that makes it thicker. Creates a wedge effect. The thickness of the watch is 9mm on the crown side of the case and 10.4mm on the other side. Also, what makes this watch so unusual in the hand is that the links are all individually made and have different lengths.
Its lapis lazuli stone dial reflects the beauty standard created in the 70s when the Swiss decided that lapis lazuli should be uniform, meaning that everything should have the same uniform electric blue appearance. does not comply with the standards. This, on the other hand, is what Phil proudly calls “Galaxy Lapis,” which is blue with flecks of gray and silver. This comes from Toledano’s artistic sensibilities. He likes to provoke and likes to provoke you and do things that hurt you.
The crown is quite recessed on the left side, and my friend, the versatile watch designer Emmanuel Gate, told me that it could be worn the other way around, as there was nothing to prevent it from being placed on the right side. Since there are no numbers or indexes, you can technically swing it however you like. You can wear the crown on the right side, or you can wear it on the left side if you prefer.
This is immediately recognizable among fewer than 150 people worldwide at this time, and I applaud their courage. I admire the true design intent of creating something with an element of surprise, delight and completely bespoke. I don’t know how they made this watch happen for $4,000. Yes, the back cover is closed. It has a Sellita movement – nothing to really talk about there. Again, this is still a Swiss made movement. But what a bold and strange little watch it is to make a watch out of steel and wear it on your wrist. Phil, Alfred – you guys are evil geniuses. I am very grateful and proud to be the owner of this watch. And I’m glad I jumped on this watch. I was really impressed when I put this watch on my wrist. It’s rare for me these days to still get that kind of excitement from a watch.
I don’t think this is a one-hit wonder. There are many ways to adapt this design to keep it interesting. It will be interesting to see what these gentlemen reveal next. And I’m sure many of you feel the sharp knife of FOMO when it sells out, and crave the opportunity to buy a successor whenever it comes out.
Toledano & Chan B/1 price and availability
Toledano & Chan B/1 is unfortunately sold out. Price: $4,000
Brand Toledano & Chan Model B/1 Case Dimensions 33.5mm (W) x 10.4mm (T) Case Material 904L Stainless Steel Water Resistance 50 Meters Crystal Sapphire Dial Lapis Lazuli Bracelet Integrated Steel Bracelet, Folding Clasp Movement Sellita SW100, Automatic Power Reserve 42 Hours Function Hours, minutes Availability Sold out Price US$4,000 (Suggested retail price)
