Exactly a year ago I was introduced to Lederer Watches. The brand founded by Bernhard Lederer creates incredible movements with complex mechanisms. The constant escape and twin gear train are some of the impressive details. Last year I fell in love with the Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer, a set of 44mm watches that I traveled to multiple countries. Now there is a small set of models inspired by last year’s release. We spent time on the new CIC 39 longitude and loved it every minute.
Last year’s Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer was an impressive release. Lederer sent watches to Besançon, Glashütte and Geneva Observatories for accuracy testing. Of course, they each passed with flying colors. It also featured a loving design reminiscent of legendary watches such as the Patek Philippe JB Champion Observatory Chronometer. However, just as these watches were lovely and spectacular objects, the diameter of 44mm has become difficult to wear. With CIC 39 longitude, Lederer has transferred much of its design to a more manageable platform.
Lederer CIC 39 Longitude
If you mistake the exact copy of last year’s Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer with the latest Lederer, you’re being made into an excuse. From a design perspective, the new model is a dead ringer, but as you can see, there is an aesthetic difference. First, the 44mm case has been reduced, giving it a lug-to-lug of 39mm and 44mm diameter. As you can imagine, these dimensions and reasonable 10.75mm thickness have a monumental effect on wearability. Lederer then chose 18K white gold instead of stainless steel for a 30m water-resistant case. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the watch is available with a white or cobalt blue dial.
Let’s break down the name of this watch. “CIC” refers to the central impulse chronometer. “39” indicates the diameter of the case, and the use of “longitude” has a deeper meaning. We address this when detailing the movement details, but aesthetically, the watch is a vertical double line that runs from the top of the dial to the bottom, paying homage to the Prime Meridian.
44mm Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer (left) and 39mm CIC 39 Longitude
Two great options
The new CIC 39 longitude dial is simpler, but it’s impressive with its clean, nonsense design. In fact, Jekyll and Hyde have a bit of a great Jekyll and Hyde happening, as dials like the Bauhaus contrast very strongly with the gorgeous display case. Each watch has a set of sectors and long-time markers. In the cardinal point, I selected the baton index to which Lederer was applied. This provides a contrasting level of detail. The hands made in-house are delicate with skeletonized arrow-shaped tips. Finally, a small offset second register ensures that the dial is too unpractical.
Turning the clock over reveals another animal
Based on CIC 39 longitude only faces, I am totally pleased to own or wear it. However, when you flip the pieces sideways or back, it feels like a Willie Wonka and Chocolate Factory scene when the kids first enter the chocolate room. In other words, the world was amazing. Lederer designed a complex, curved sapphire display. From the sides, the sapphire creates a gentle arc between the lugs, resulting in a liquid-like suspension of movement. It’s beautiful, once again, when juxtaposed with a serious dial, it’s perfect contrast. But is the view worth the admission fee?
A spectacular company movement
We are no longer strangers to Bernhard Lederer’s gorgeous calibers, but seeing them never tires us. The 9016’s dual-stop escape is a manual take-up caliber with a 38-hour power reserve and a frequency of 21,600VPH. However, these movements are mechanically impressive, so it’s a shame to stop there. Each has a twin barrel, a twin gear train, two constant ability mechanisms, and two independent escapement wheels.
However, returning to the longitude moniker is associated with the Remontoir D’égalité, part of the winding mechanism. For over 500 years, Clock/Watchmakers have used this innovation to deliver stable power to the escape, making it even more accurate. The present invention is a feature of marine chronometers and has been essential for the use of longitude as a navigation tool. With its central impulse chronometer, Lederer became the first brand to introduce Twin Remontoirs. It has achieved 95% of the company’s production, and the movement has ended beautifully.
CIC 39 Longitude is at home on the wrist
During the 2025 Geneva Watch, I spent time with the CIC 39 longitude duo, which included trying out the size. It’s easy to first impress with all the new watches at events like this, but I loved these new ledders. The supple calfskin straps and simple white gold pin buckle made the watch feel natural on your wrist. For an exotic watch, it is not a guarantee that so many people are too big, thick or too bold. The longitude of the CIC 39 is a quiet force, and with such a great power movement, it’s like having the ultimate stealth watch. I didn’t publish any Best Show articles from participants in each Fraterêtre, but these works were in my top three.
Exclusive and luxurious prices
Lederer is a small watchmaker, so he only makes 12 examples of each dial color. That’s a shame, but at a price of CHF 158,000, that might be a reasonable number. The numbers aren’t small in any stretch, but I think these watches are amazing no matter what outfit they look like. Plus, there are plenty more pieces at this price (or more) that exchange more shock value and celebrity status than the actual watchmaking chops. Your mileage may vary, but if I was spending at this level, I know what to choose.
