Choosing my favorite dates was not an easy exercise. I’ve got some vintage references from most of 2021-2023. Each was chosen for reasons. My game was a hard-to-find dial, paired with a sharp case and an atypical bezel. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options for my wear spinning. They are wonderful, fit beautifully and run like a diesel tractor. However, there is one model with one remaining model, which is the 1601 No-Lume lavender dial.
Almost two years ago I wrote a thorough accounting for a Rolex DateJust 1601 that I purchased from Wind Vintage. The watch had mostly missed opportunities, but luck finally settled in. Still, I covered the section with nice shades of the clock and dial. So, what can I write about today? Well, I’ve been wearing watches relatively frequently since 2023, and I’ve come to appreciate the beauty even more. Oh, Wind Vintage’s Charlie Dunn sent us some nice evidence about these lavender dials.
Summary: 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial
I’m a regular watcher of wind vintage sites. Eric and Charlie are constantly adding new pieces, but even if you can’t afford most of them, it’s fun to see stunning examples of rare and/or desirable models. It was early 2023 and our family was looking forward to our annual Easter trip. In the background, I followed several watches in preparation for a side visit to see Eric. The 1601 No-Lume lavender dial was a strange piece. I’ve heard these dials before, but I haven’t done much research on them.
Image: Wind Vintage
Fast forward to my visit, Eric brought out a pile of cool things to try out for the size. Strangely, 1601 was not in it. I asked, and to my surprise, after sitting on the site for months, the watch sold the night before. Still, he put out the clock and I was taken with him immediately. Wind Vintage posts consistent photos, but their works were metallic and different. The dial was warm and gave a direct hint of lavender. Furthermore, the condition of the watch that left the factory in 1971 was unrealistic. If the buyer decided to deny the purchase, I left the condition that I would be willing to buy the 1601. Less than a week later, Fortune smiled at me and the watch was mine.
So far, two years of uniqueness
Honestly, most vintage Rolex watches are not uncommon. Visit vintage watch shops in big cities, watch auctions, or head to a gathering. A Rolex could be the most typical sight. So, when the veteran Rolex collector stops and sees just 1601 Nomeru Lavender Date Just twice, he begins to realize that it is relatively unique.
Openly, I didn’t buy this 1601 for attention, but I bought it because it was so different. Rolex offered a lovely blue dial on the date just model, but most of the options were relatively restrained. Black, gray, silver and white are the regular fares. They’re lovely, but are they bright shades of purple? Now it’s wild!
Myths and reality
Many people, including myself, were given the impression that these dials began life as grey or silver, and that time changed their hue. However, when viewed directly, very consistent clean tones are revealed, and there is no difference in color of the normal age spots or edges seen on highly aged dials. Plus, the lume-free lavender version I own does not have tritium to change the paint. But instead of continuing to comment on this anecdotal evidence, let’s share something more determined.
1972 Rolex Japan Catalog
Charlie Dunn, a tenacious researcher who he is, shared a screenshot from the 1972 Rolex Japan catalog. Here you can see the different dial colors. Lavender is a clear option. In this catalogue shot, it’s interesting as the photos show a brighter version. It is not found in the mine. This was typical for the Japanese market due to restrictions on imports of radioactive materials. Still, there is evidence of factory production of these unique colored dials.
Other reasons why this 1601 lume lavender dial is my favorite date
The beautifully preserved dial is part of why this watch is my favorite date. Other factors, such as the fact that this watch is virtually untouched, can see what it looked like 55 years ago. This case is lovely with its slim yet sturdy rug, with its grooved bezel in 18K white gold that is surprisingly crisp. Then there is the 6251 Jubilee bracelet built by gay Freres. Over the past two years, I have claimed to be the most comfortable bracelet ever. Again, this example is mint, and it gives you a feel for what it would be like to step into a Rolex ad in the 70s and try out a date just for a date.
On the wrist, 36mm feels like a natural extension. It is an elegant light that does not rattle or look suffocating. It’s a great watch for all environments too. I brought it to the Florida key and the pastel dial was perfect for dinner and drinks on the water. In formal wear, the dial glows next to a light blue dress shirt. Above all, it’s just a date, but it’s nowhere near as the rich look of sparkles and Nubeaux, like the horde of modern 41mm models I see everywhere now.
The thoughts of parting
For 80 years, DateJust has been the flagship model of Rolex. It introduced impressive innovations, and even the modern version remained very close to the original model of the spirit. But as for my preference, the 16xx series balances the perfect balance between old and new enough to carry out daily duties. Certainly, the lack of a quick set date is a bit annoying, but it does guarantee that the watch will be worn. This little niggle cannot overcome the perfect balance and wearability of the 1601. Adding details such as a no-lume lavender dial will promote you to best-in-class status. Well, at least for me…
