Tom Austin
Christopher Ward is currently sweeping the world of watches. A recent alliance of British watch and watch manufacturers emphasizes that the Anglo-Swiss brand holds a 14% market share of the British Watch industry. There is a wide variety of models selected in the catalog, but over the past two or three years, a series of releases have proven that brands can offer more releases than the average watch brand and much less than the average price.
Two watches in particular stand out as flagships defining what modern Christopher Ward represents, bringing unusual concepts and complications, making them accessible and incredible value. The first one is C1 BEL CANTO. This is a striking Sonnerie AU passage that is visually and audible, and is now instantly recognizable, with the second being the latest high temperature collapse range top, the C12 Loco. They are two very different watches with a clear approach, but it’s easy to hear frequently when people discuss them. Which do you prefer? So let’s solve this, which ward are you? Team Loco or Team Belcanto?
Brand Christopher Ward Christopher Ward Model C1 Bel Canto C12 Loco Case Dimensions 41mm(d) x 13mm
Hit a chord
Bell Cant has hardly been introduced to date. It became a microcosm of Christopher Ward’s brand image, and after first choosing a small, safe dial and color variation, it began to mature and develop with a few different options that appeal to a wider audience. The watch design focuses on the complications of the party’s work, Sonnerie Au Passage.
Most watches that feature chiming complications usually come with warnings, so it’s this fun complication that sets you apart from most people. You will need a savings account equivalent to the GDP of a small country. Christopher Ward, along with Bell Cant, brought high watches to real-world enthusiasts. It disrupts the cultures like gatekeeping that can occur in the watch scene, questioning that only the most exclusive and elusive watches are allowed to characterize such complications.
The design itself is a victory. It’s not a small watch with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 13mm, but the Grade 5 titanium case keeps most things very light, forgetting it’s on your wrist. There is a reason for the size. First, it houses the basics of the movement of the Sellita SW200-1, but balances the intricate layout of the dials of the additional mechanism, a modified jump time module that operates the chimes, leaving enough clean space to play with the colour and texture.
Since its launch, new dials have been displayed, including classic gold and green guillotines, or Sunburst Red and Red One from Andrew Morgan collaborations. These alternative variations bring a new perspective to an already impressive design, showing that Word is happy with the gambling he took with this watch, providing new things to tweak the design and make the range interesting.
Lessons from the movement
A few years after Bel Cant arrived, whispers of new things on the horizon from the ward were picked up. There was always an exciting idea: “If they could do this, what would be next?” Surrounding the brand. However, the watch community was beginning to ring with more rumors. The gorgeous integrated bracelet watch launched surveillance for the 12 masses, and while it is a great watch in many ways, it was something we all saw before and certainly not a ground destroyer like the Bell Cant. But it served as an excellent entree for what is to come and formed the basis for the next chapter of Christopher Ward’s journey to geriatrics.
If Bell Canto was his debut smash hit, then the 12 people are like a B-side banger. It’s a great release, but not everyone remembers first. That difficult second album was still in the work and had to be something special to keep that momentum going for the brand.
So, yes, the C12 Loco features 12 distinctive stainless steel 41mm integrated bracelet case designs, but this time it’s based on something very different. It’s more than just a traditional watch with a cutaway dial that claims to be “open work.” Like the Bel Canto, the dial is motion, and the movement is dial. At the front of the dial is an exposed bridge that houses the balance and escapement of fleece pulling completely separate from the rest of the movement. At the same time, other mechanisms are revealed on the back of the watch, such as a large twin barrel, providing a 144-hour power reserve to the movement.
The CW-003 movement at Loco is a testament to the broad R&D process of Ward and the exercises of ingenuity and creativity. Most brands at this level would probably choose ready-made items with relatively simple decorations and run with them, but they wanted to prove to the world that CW means business. The exposed elongated bridge at the front of the watch is lovingly bevelled by hand, along with polished screws and an oversized bevelled cock that holds the winding mechanism on the back of the watch in place.
The whole aesthetic is intentional and architectural. It makes you feel like you have something special. Mainly because there is so much attention and attention paid to all the overall fit and finish from both sides. Finally, on the front there is symmetry and cohesion between the large dial at the top, the large balance wheel at the center, and the escape wheel at the bottom.
Christopher Ward spent nearly five years developing the C12 Loco. It was named to derive from the inspiration taken from the movement. Details of this journey can be learned directly from the brand itself. The fantastic story is featured in a documentary on the YouTube channel that was used as part of the watch launch. As we’ve seen from the brand before, there’s a small range of bold firing colors, along with blue, black and white, as in the photo. The dial is split in half, with the top half having a brush finish that catches light completely, and the bottom half features a microblasted version of texture exposed with subtle microblast texture.
Again, this is the perfect canvas to start with for ward. It’s almost certain that a fresh new colorway will be on sale soon, and perhaps some alternative dial textures and finishes to make things even more exciting. Who is that pyramid motif at 12 years old?
What do they like to wear?
Both watches are generally quite a complete experience. They don’t tend to blend in with the crowd, as submarines do. Instead, they both have character eggs. Honestly, most other watches at this level can’t compete. Now, I’ll admit that the two models featured here aren’t in the most subtle colorways, but why do they need them? Both of these are conversation starter-type watches, so we want to stand out from the monotonous and mundane.
The wear experience from a functional standpoint is comfortable. Both watches have particularly supple rubber straps, which are light and ventilated. Neither is too big or too small. They sit in the typical 40-41mm area for most wrists. We could argue that narrowing down to 38mm might be an improvement, but it is already not like a tool watch, and could undermine readability. And while it’s great to look down and see the Free Sprung Escape working in Loco, I have to admit, I have nothing beat the subtle hourly wage from Bell Canto.
Verdict: Which ward are you?
As mentioned earlier, whenever we discuss the C12 Loco with anyone, this topic inevitably increases its position as a flag bearer alongside Bel Canto, one of which is preferred over the other. Technically, they are incredibly different watches, and the Bell Canto focuses on the experiences of the audible age and uses existing movements to carry out the effort. Loco shows how far Christopher Ward has come, but it shows that they shouldn’t be scoffed when it comes to pushing the boundaries of internal movement technology and design. Together, they are both modern watches, but there’s something more classic about the Bell Canto aesthetic that stands out from the ultra-modernistic loco, and that could be a trade breaker for you.
The biggest advantage of both is that for watches that contain bespoke “rare” complications, they are very affordable as to what they are and that is the real kicker here. Usually, paying attention to this type of detail and exploratory design, it is very expensive and unattainable. For me, it’s a difficult choice. I love Loco’s modernist looks and technical skill, but the sound charm of Bell Canto beats me. (Even cheap Bell Canto people too.
I tend to prefer round watches to integrated bracelet designs, and I love the brighter, more refined steel loco and the more modest finish of the Belcant titanium case. We initially said that Loco was a Bell Cant killer, but in reality, Bell Cant is something that true fans of Christopher Ward’s debut smash hit love. Loco is the next logical step for a brand, especially from a technical standpoint, but if it’s appealing, Bel Canto pips it in my post at least in my opinion. Anyway, both are available from Time+Tide Shop.