[f]Here’s why Rolex Dating 16234 checks all boxes

This year marks the 80th anniversary of DateJust, the “mother of all modern watches,” according to my colleague Gerald. And I disagree. When Rolex introduced the watch in 1945, it set a new direction for the company, followed by many other brands (long after). Watches for daily use, 3 o’clock date window, automatic movement, incredibly comfortable steel bracelet. Please date very early next to the current one. You can see that they are very related. However, this trend tends to apply to most Rolex models.

Rolex DateJust 16234

To highlight Rolex DateJust, we run a series of articles on Fratello. Some editors choose their favorite references. You will see why this exercise is being conducted at a later stage. My “ultimate” date reference was 16234 and has been around for a long time. I don’t own it (about that soon), but it’s something I would buy today if I was shopping today.

My preference for the Rolex Date Just 16234 is linked when I first started to enter the watch. It is a go-to watch for anyone wanting a Rolex and remains one of the most recognizable models today. In this article, I will explain why a long postponed date for 16234 is my absolute favorite.

Datejust Reference 16234 was introduced in 1988 and was produced until 2005. There were two major improvements in the previous generation (see, for example, 16030/16013/16014): sapphire crystal and new movements instead of Yems (Caliber 3135). Details of the movement later. Sapphire crystals are not a favorite for everyone, especially if you’re interested in vintage watches, but they offer a slightly more carefree pleasure in wearing a date.

ca. 2000 Rolex Date Just 16234 with porcelain white dial. Images via Bulang & Sons

162xx is the sweet spot for Datejust reference

In the 162XX series, the case design remained the same as its predecessor. At one point, Rolex removed the hole in the lug, which I like aesthetically, but not convenient. On the other hand, why do you want to remove the jubilee bracelet? My point is that I love it much more than later date just references, and there are clear technical advantages over the former references. 162xx is the best in both worlds.

The Rolex DateJust 16234 features a tapestry dial from the CA. 1991. Image via LangedykVintageWatches.

I own a DateJust 1600, a graduation gift from my mother. However, I have often considered getting additional dates like 16234. Reference 16234 has a wide range of dialing options, a big plus for this watch. After seeing it at a used watch store in Gerard in The Hague for a long time and years ago, the salmon pink dial with the Roman numerals in white gold was my absolute favorite. And what about the variations on the Tapestry dial? wonderful! My favorite is the ivory dial version of Roman numerals. This became a creamy colour over time.

Rolex DateJust16233. Image via ManbodhWatch.

Two colours are definitely an option

This series also comes in gold and steel versions in 16233. The bracelet has a yellow gold center link, and the watch has a gold bezel and a crown. The two-tone Datejust can be considered a typical 1980s iconic watch. It is often mistaken for the wrist watch of American psycho Patrick Bateman (this was Seiko with a date-just appearance), but it is found in many other films and series.

Rolex DateJust16233. Image via ManbodhWatch.

The DateJust 16234 is a little more modest, but the white gold features a jubilee bracelet’s curled bezel and polished central links to add that extra playfulness in the sun.

Caliber 3135

Caliber 3135

As mentioned above, the inside is the movement of the Rolex caliber 3135. The predecessor, the 3035, was a relatively large step up from the Caliber 15XX series, which featured a higher beat rate and a quick set mechanism for dates, but the new 3135 had some additional tweaks. The 3135 has a balance bridge rather than a balance cock for improved stability. The 3135 is also slightly thinner, with four more gems. The Calibre 3135 had some minor improvements over its lifespan, including the Palac Rom Hair Spring, but the early movement of 3135 still had Nivarox (Swatch Group) hairspring. Not only did Datejust use this movement, but the Submariner, Sea Dellerer and Yacht-Master also had caliber 3135 inside.

Rolex DateJust 16234 with Ivory (Cream) dial. Image: Bulang & Sons

Why am I not (yet) owning it?

If Rolex is my favorite reference (and 16233 as a second), why don’t I own it? I’m not sure exactly. I think my date of 18238 replaced the need to own a 16234. It might add to Jubilee’s 1600 date just (I wore a 1601 white gold fluted bezel), but that’s also very similar. That said, this article and my colleague’s series on dating just rekindled my interests in search of my favorites. It’s just a great everyday watch, and more appropriate than a single day or a four-digit date, I say.