Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi SPB499

Russell Sheldrake

We spend too long in this job and talk about the history and heritage of the Swiss watchmaking industry, so on the other side of the world, we sometimes forget that they have also made incredible watches for a very long time. The new Seiko Presage Classic series Urushi SBP499 takes direct inspiration from the first pocket D, made in 1895. Let’s dig into exactly how this watch can be achieved all of that, at first glance, something that looks like a relatively simple package.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lusyzel1_z4

Dial

The dial is the main attraction here, with its deep black glow and delicate gold printing. There’s a lot to unpack. First, let’s take a look at the techniques used to create this incredibly shiny dial. This effect is created by Urushi Lacquer, an ancient craft that uses the sap of lacquer tree Toxicodendron vernicifluum. Through multiple layers of lacquer and polishing, it is possible to build a dial of this quality with a high level of sparkle of this quality and a genuine depth that is almost impossible to achieve at this price. Of course, this is not the first time Seiko (or its premium Credol or Grand Seiko brand) has used urushi lacquer. It is also one of many feathers in the dialmaking cap that will help you stand out as a brand.

Next is this dial, especially the gold leaf print engraved on elongated Roman numerals. This style of Roman numerals were direct contact with the first pocket watch of the brand known as the Timekeeper when the company was called Seikosha. These digit designs make them elegantly elongated and compressed, making them almost similar to baton markers. Engraving these in a gold matte tone adds the charm of this dial. There is a sense of minimalism in which the tiny markings of the train tracks and everything else on this dial are applied in a uniform tone, allowing the sheen of the dial itself to shine.

Cleaning this dial is a hand with a centre-mounted time and minute leaf, and a hand with a crescent counterweight that is very impressive for a mile second. The 6 o’clock sub-dial lets you know if your main time hand is reading AM or PM, as the 24-hour hand acts as an indicator for day and night. It’s elegant complexity with nothing to distract from a simple dial, but adds an additional layer of functionality.

case

Everything about this watch’s dial has a classic cry, but the proportionality of the case forces it into a more modern category. With a width of 40.2mm, thickness of 12.1mm and 48mm to lugs, this watch is outside of vintage style sizing and falls into the proportions that many consider to be ideal for modern consumers. We recently got smaller and smaller with the exact same movement, but here we decided that this watch felt a little more modern when on the wrist.

Also, what helps this watch feel modern is its 100m water resistance rating, which is much more practical than many other dress watches on the market. I feel the rest of this case is rather unremarkable. It has a straight lug that stretches out a fair way from the case, an open case back to show off the automatic movement inside, and a decent size, easy-to-use grooved crown. Like almost all Seiko designs, nothing feels out of place here, and everything serves a functional purpose, while making the dial a major attraction.

Movement

Continuing this watch running is Seiko’s automatic 6R5H caliber. It’s an impressive small movement that maintains a 72-hour power reserve while performing standard and 24-hour indicator hands. This is Seiko’s long-term 3Hz variant of 6R movement, and has proven again and again to be consistent and cost-effective in what you’re getting. There is no flashy finish to talk about, but you can see the watch’s brass rotors and heartbeat through the sapphire caseback.

strap

Holding this watch together is a simple black leather strap with an unfolding buckle. It’s good to know about this strap, but the leather used in it was sourced from leather tanning that has been certified as sustainable by the Leather Working Group (LWG) international organization. But what really matters while it’s on your wrist is how the leather complements the deep black on the dial.

verdict

There’s always a lot to say about Seiko dials. There’s something more to say when they combine ancient Japanese techniques with inspiration from the company’s very early days. One of the things I have always admired this brand is making this level of design and craftsmanship available at this accessible price range. It’s also interesting to see that while many in the industry are appearing to be shrinking their watches, Seiko definitely isn’t afraid to stick to standard sizing rather than still having a market.