Zach Brass
Lately, when it comes to Rolex, conversations are mostly sticking to professional Rolex models like Submariner, Daytona, and GMT Master II. That’s fine, I’ll get it. They are very good watches that all have a rich heritage. That being said, despite the fact that those watches are very good, I think there are some that beat them as the best modern Rolex you can buy. I’m talking about just a Rolex date. Don’t be furious with my hypothesis yet. First let me explain the reason.
Rolex DateJust: A simple backstory
DateJust was first introduced in 1945 as reference 4467 11 years before Rolex introduced dates. The original 36mm size remains the core and purchased the largest date you can buy until 2009 when Rolex introduced the 41mm variation. Unlike Cellini, which proves a hit or miss, it was eventually cancelled, but DateJust has remained a staple in the Rolex catalog since its introduction 80 years ago. It will become a very familiar face and is primarily associated with success, achievement, milestones, the symbols you have created.
Obviously, I’m partially on DateJust considering I own a DateJust 36 ref. 126234, this is a watch that is important to me about my relationship with my grandfather. It was his go-to watch throughout my childhood, and it sparked my interest in the world of watches. Again, many grandchildren can say that the ubiquity of the model and the date just for date were grandfather’s watches… well, the “grandpa’s clock” element may work against modern dates. I’ll go back to this later.
Rolex dateJust 36 ref. 126234 Spec Check
This stainless steel dating Just 36, bright blue dial, white gold fluted bezel, and jubilee bracelet are actually time capsules. Its diameter is the same as the original date that it debuted in 1945, and is a lug-to-lug with a thickness of about 11.6mm. The entire 100-meter water-resistant case is performed with a sophisticated finish with a mixed finish introduced by the bracelet. Inside is the caliber 3235, a 70-hour internal movement that is also seen on the Submariner date, regulated by the highest-grade chronometer standard of +/- 2 seconds per day.
Why is the date the best Rolex you can buy today?
I really believe that statement, you know, and I put my money where my mouth is. First, DateJust offers a spectacular aesthetic variety. Personally, I think the 36 is the best size. Cartier’s tanks are now smaller, and the IWC’s leading pilots intend this classy date to look the best in its (original) medium size. However, there are also 28mm, 31mm, and 41mm options so people who don’t agree with me can’t see on 36.
Materially, historically speaking, you may be surprised to hear that it is not very common in precious metals. To do this you usually need to jump to the date. However, in the current catalog, all sizes are available in Oystersteel, White Rolesor (Steel Case and Bracelet, White Gold Fluted Bezel), and Everose or Yellow Roles (steel case, gold crown and bezel, steel/gold bracelet). If you want more sparkle, you can also choose a diamond set bezel across all sizes and material compositions. oh!
As for the dial, there are also tons to explore. I have a fan-like voice like my bright blue, black, champagne, white, and bright tones of pink, purple and mint green. Each size and material configuration has a different number of dialing options. For example, White Rolesor 36 has 12 options.
Once you’ve refueled, DateJust is available in both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets. Both are great, but I personally preach the dometed bezel model looks best on oyster bracelets, and in Jubilee the bezel model is best seen with grooved or diamond sets. It is worth noting that jumping from oysters to Jubilee adds around 100 USD to the final price tag.
More importantly than price, such diversity is what Rolex’s professional models ultimately gave dates something they didn’t. Your (steel) submariner is basically available in black only and looks just like everyone else, but dating can make you feel more.
To be fair, versatility is at the heart of my discussion here. The second point is that I want to hone it with something I like to call “robust elegance.” The date, at least 36mm and 41mm, takes advantage of the exact same 3235 movements found on Rolex submarines, retaining 100m water resistance despite its sophisticated aesthetic. So, on that front, there are all the features of a suitable daily sports watch. Aesthetically, however, the dating just is at least quite smart casual, dressed up further with a grooved bezel and a jubilee bracelet configuration.
I don’t actually intend to grab a pitchfork with intense rage when I see someone wearing a Submariner in a suit (editor’s note: speaking to myself), but I feel like the Submariner is forced into such a wardrobe, but the date is a true beach and boardroom watch. It can handle almost anything that Submariner can do in terms of stress, depending on any outfit – unless you’re actually planning to lower your Rolex to 300 meters. I wear mine on my vacation, swimming in the sea during the day, and in the evening I wear it in a white tablecloth steakhouse. In my opinion, it’s Gadapapa.
Finally, we need to deal with the economy of hype clocks. The rarity of Rolex in retail stores has long been bothering us, but everyone is stuck with steel sports, but dates took the back seat. That’s what makes the retail experience even better because you can actually have it! I picked up DateJust in September 2021 about six months after posting my orders and deposits. It’s still quite a wait, but it was exactly what I was quoted. A breath of fresh, clear air compared to enigmatic dances like the GMT Pepsi and Yellow Dial Oyster Perpetual 36.
DateJust is not a hype Rolex, and, if any, doesn’t have a huge secondary market premium. It holds enough value to get your money back if you want, and since it doesn’t have such a crazy premium, there’s less appeal for burglars to swipe it compared to Daytona, which is sold at retailers with triple-fold.
Close thoughts
Let’s put that back together. Yes, some view DateJust as basic and simple. But if you ignore the hype that has become an integral part of being a watch fan for many, it’s not so bland when you consider it to be one of the most configurable Rolexes in the current catalog. There are plenty of colours and materials with processed clothing to the degree indicated by the bezel and bracelet combo of your choice. It has the advantage that it can be worn seamlessly without feeling out of place in any situation. And despite its inherent elegance, it is almost as robust as the stable of its professional collections. Dates may not be the watch people hold their breath with clocks or wonders, but it is a timeless classic and never loses style.
