Zach Brass
For better or worse, Breguet is a brand that refuses to indulge in a hype culture, dedicated the entire 250 years of its existence to pure, traditional watches. Anyway, salt-worthy watch enthusiasts are rooting for Breguet. It’s been so lively these days, Breguet has not kept up to the rapidly evolving release cycle that most other brands are currently accustomed to. In a market where you look at everyday wearable sports watches, it’s not easy. Naturally, Breguet splashed it by reintroducing it into the type xx and type 20 catalogs. There were quite a few accidental conditions within the collection community, at least within the collection community, where the larger 42mm case size and a very controversial 4:30 position date window was completely unavailable. Well, that’s no longer a problem. With the heels of two anniversary heels of the 250th anniversary (Classics and Traditions of the 18K Breguet Gold), it is now a turn with two new references of the Breguet Type XX Chronographe, a new 38mm case size and a dateless dial.
case
Fun Fact: 2025 marks the 70th anniversary of the first Solid Gold Type XX Chronograph, so these watches actually celebrate their second anniversary. But for the first time in any generation of XX type I got it at 18K Breguet Gold. Consisting of gold concentrated in silver, copper and palladium, Breguet Gold ultimately nets a warm tone that feels like aged yellow gold, rather than a new shade like rose gold.
With a diameter of 38.3mm, this case is truly a modern sweet spot for medium-sized sports watches, perhaps with a smaller lug-to-lug length suitable for more wrists. Also, the thickness of the case, which is about 1mm thin and 13.1mm, is likely due to the new configuration of the 728 caliber inside, so we’ll dig a little deeper. It is also worth noting that on the scales from 42mm to 38.3mm, the depth rating has decreased from 0.50m to 50m.
When you fram the dial, each watch has a 12-hour scale on a bidirectional rotating bezel, but each comes with a different colored filling. The Black Dial Sports fits the black numbers, but the limited edition comes in blue to match the dial accent. There are no clicks on the bezel rotation. Instead, it’s smooth rotation with friction resistance to prevent accidental rotation.
Dial
Like the Gold Type XX and its ceramic bezel, both have a new 38mm Type XX chronograph with logos applied at the 12 o’clock position, both have Fauxtina elements. But that’s where the similarities at the foreground end. There are two configurations, one of which is the limited edition model with vertically brushed silver 925 dials, with Breguet Gold Applied Indice and Numerals, and blue accents on the dial and counter text. In comparison, the anthracite aluminum variant features an oversized vintage resupply of 15 minutes, replacing the silver counter for 30 minutes. It also has a fully printed dial (except for its Breguet logo) that stays true to its source of inspiration, avoiding the tachimeter scale, unlike silver watches.
The black feels very type xx, but for casual Breguet fans, the limited edition dial may seem a bit off the field on the left. However, there are no random ones. On the black dial, the modest “AL” mark between 7 and 8 reveals that it is made of aluminum chosen in honor of Lewis Breguett, who pioneered the use of Duralumin, an alloy made up of 95% aluminum sheet metal for his aircraft. To bring the dial as close as possible to the original black, the aluminum is hilarious and gives it a rich black colour.
The limited edition Silver 925 dial has a secret signature and also shows materials between 7am and 8 hours’ index. According to Breguet, the source of inspiration for this dial is the historic No. 1780 watch. The dial design itself is different, but no. The tribute is appropriate given that the 1780 is a case of gold. I have to confess that it’s not a watch I know very well, but the ultimate result is a more casual foil for a militaristic black dial.
strap
The limited edition 38mm Type XX Chronograph model has a bold blue gradient calf leather strap that is paired well with the blue touch of the dial.
The regular production model pairs with a gradient black leather strap that looks almost subtly tropical, with beautiful golden stitching that matches the hue of the case.
Both straps have a replaceable quick release tab on the bottom, and the 18k Breguet Gold Pin Buckle fastener is well-installed with a screwed bar. So if you want to quickly release the strap from the case, you will need to first remove the bar that holds the pin buckle in order to transfer it to another strap.
Movement
The thinner case could be attributed to a 728 caliber manual scratches variant introduced in 2023 when this latest generation Type XX first debuted. The Calibre 7278 is on display within the limited edition model, but the regular production variant gets a 7279, and the only difference between them is the tiny summaries. Both have 5Hz beat rates, flyback features, column wheels and a 60-hour power reserve.
The lack of gold plated and beautifully groomed winding rotors with Breguet Gold remains true to the original Type XX, bringing a non-blurred view of movement. Breguet seized the opportunity to make the most of the important bridge real estate by adding manual windings with Breguet 19 aircraft, its routes, and European and North American coastline motifs, contributing to the first transatlantic flight from Paris to New York.
verdict
Jump to the end, I love both of these watches. Holding them side by side, I couldn’t decide what I like more, but I know I’ll be happy to wear and own. The small 38mm case, the attractive colours of the Breguet Gold, the balanced, dataless dials and their clear representations, and the stunning hand-carved movements all speak to me. That being said, a price tag of over USD 40,000 will quickly ground my budget plane. At this price range, Breguet places 38mm Type XX chronographs very desirefully, stacking them against tough competition.
The limited edition 250-piece model will have little problem with sales, as there are definitely 250 Breguet followers who feel they need to have one in their collection. Also, although not precisely limited, I suspect that black dials will not be produced in large quantities every year. Ultimately, Breguet has done a great job recently in debuting an exciting watch, at least in terms of evaluating their presence. However, I would like to know if and how it is trying to present a new product that is more accessible to the price, so that more Breguet fans can join in on the fun, despite the fact that Breguet is still high-end and expensive.
Breguet Type xx Chronographe 38mm Price and availability
Both Breguet Type XX Chronographe 38mm models are now available for purchase. Price: 43,500 US$ (Black Dial, Regular Production), 45,200 US$ (Silver Dial, 250 Piece LE)
Brand Breguet Model Type XX Chronographe Reference 2075bh/99/398 (Black Dial)
2075bh/g9/398 (silver dial) Case dimensions 38.3mm(d) x 13.1mm
