The 39.5mm Formex “Baby” leaf represents the value of money we were once used to Tudor’s Black Bay series in the Covid era. It was just a few years ago, but Tudor runs the luxury market, allowing you to clean brands like Formex, Longines and Sinn to fill in your previous shoes. How does this change happen and what does that mean for us who are looking for quality watches on the 2020 Black Bay budget? That’s what we consider today.
I remember buying the Blue Tudor Black Bay 58 New in 2021. At the time, this was one of the hottest watches. As a customer paying to spend money on Covid Lockdown, who longed for the appeal of a more compact sized steel Rolex sports watch, there was a waiting list for it. I am one of those who were obsessed with the success of the Blue Black Bay 58 and decided to buy one for my 30th birthday. The Tudor Black Bay 58 became a phenomenon in watches and helped drive the brand to new heights.
Tudor was once a valuable king
Certainly, Tudor is supported by parent company Rolex and supports all the resources and know-how it brings. Historically, however, Tudor watches have not had the luxurious luggage that Rolex has fostered. On the one hand, the pursuit of luxury has made Rolex great. This was recently seen in the release of high beat movements with watches and wonders. Meanwhile, enthusiasts have denounced the long wait list, with some even claiming that they have lost some of the appeal of the toolwatch that the brand once had.
But it also helped that Tudor was able to provide a lot of value with its offering. As it’s just an Oris, I got a watch with a 70-hour power reserve, COSC accuracy and a blueprint for designs that go back to the Hanswillsdorf Golden era. As my colleague Mike Stockton noted in writing about the 2020 Blue Black Bay 58 release, “I think 58 people are of significant value, at 3,430 euros on a bracelet or 3,140 euros on either the tied variant.”
Where is Tudor going now?
Today, you can see that the Tudor Black Bay 58 priced at 4,510 and 4,620 euros for three and five rows of steel bracelets, respectively, and 4,290 euros for rubber straps. Yes, the New Black Bay 58 offers significant upgrades with higher prices. Fine adjustments, improved crown and bezel ergonomics, and improved meta-certified caliber have significantly improved the clasp.
Despite this, prices go up a bit. Last year I asked, “Is the rise in watch prices changing the arena for enthusiasts?” We saw the rise in prices for Tudor watches. My colleague Jorg wrote in his article about this topic, “Are you looking closely at Tudor price increases in 2024? Will it affect the success of the brand?” Tudor still offers good value, but brands are beginning to end the price category they once dominated. This can be seen not only as a result of inflation, but also as a step-by-step strategy to make Tudor and Rolex even more sophisticated.
Formex Reef feels like Tudor in Covid year
This development of Tudor’s pricing strategy provides more space for smaller players to grow on their own. One of these brands is Formex. This can provide a unique industrial design with an emphasis on the value of money and quality. Formex watches are rich in features, and take into account their job prices in particular. Recently I was able to spend time with the 39.5mm Formex “Baby” Reef and was impressed by the level of money quality. This watch reminded me of Tudor about five years ago and offers a big deal.
But unlike Tudors five years ago, we get a perfectly well thought out clasp with minor tweaks. Although there is no manufacturing diameter, it acquires a serviceable Sellita SW300-1 movement that is well-made with COSC accuracy. In addition to being a chronometer certified caliber, it is an automatic with a 28,800 VPH frequency, a 56-hour power reserve and 25 gems. The Sellita SW300-1 is Sellita’s answer to the venerable ETA 2892-A2.
Impressive specifications of the Formex Leaf
The Formex Leaf offers 300 meters of water resistance, comparable to the Rolex Submariner, and is over 100 meters above the Tudor Black Bay. It also has a fully acceptable level of room and a 6 o’clock date window. When dealing with Formex leafs, you receive the impression of a watch designed with a focus on functionality. In terms of design, the Leaf series is like a Vegemite (Australian Marmite version) watch. Unlike the Tudor Black Bay 58, Formex Reef is more avant-garde in its relatively “safe” design that riffs on Tudor submarines of the 1950s and 60s. Formex offers other types of watches in its lineup, including Leaf GMT and Field Watch. But for me, the 39.5mm leaf represents a challenge to Black Bay.
Some of the design decisions are… interesting. For example, the 22mm lug spacing (such as the larger 42mm sibling) in this 39.5mm version makes it look really bigger. The same goes for the bulbous sides that expand from the center of the case and provide a large footprint on the wrist. Nevertheless, it is only 11.4mm thick and the watch is wonderful and slim! This creates a great wearing experience with a watch that feels a little wider than the case size suggests, but remains comfortable even when hidden under the cuff. Perhaps the most amazing thing is that Formex offers this watch for just 2,070 euros. That’s not half what meta-certified Black Bay models sell today.
Another Tudor candidate – Legendary Diver of the 39mm Longins
The Longines Legend Diver is another great example of a diving watch with great specifications, excellent build quality and price (3,800 euros) that compete with Tudor Black Bay. Longines, like me, released some 39mm versions that suit them after more compact dimensions. This watch offers an elongated 12.7mm profile (crystal included) and a wearable 47mm lug-to-lug. In that case, it is water resistant to 300 meters, 100 more than Tudor Black Bay.
Raised Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock are coated with Super Luminova. The interior beats the COSC certified L888.6 automatic caliber. It has 21 gems, ticks of 25,200VPH and offers a 72-hour power reserve. The caliber is co-magnetic as long as it has a silicon balance spring.
sinn u50
German watchmaker Singh offers interesting options with the U50. This model is a beaded blasted steel bracelet for 2,545 euros. To do this, you will get a diving watch with a depth rating of 500m and a unique Sinn dial aesthetic. Inside slaps the true Sellita SW300-1 attempted. The case is only 11.2mm thick.
When I bought the Blue Tudor Black Bay 58, I was quite new to watches and didn’t know about the Sin. If so, I think it would have been fascinating to consider getting it, taking into account the combination of asking price specifications, quality and heritage.
Oris aquis Date
Oris has long been a fan favorite when it comes to valuable mechanical watches. For many, the Oris Divers 65 represents the gateway drug of a vintage-inspired automatic Swiss dive watch. Today we are looking at Aquis, the brand’s other key dive watch offering. Certainly, these come in larger case sizes than the Tudor Black Bay 58, but they wear very well thanks to the rug design.
In fact, the 41.5mm version is especially wearable for people with small wrists. The specifications are solid and the 2,400 euro ask price is reasonable. If you like more modern design attributes, AQUIS is an attractive option. Inside, it hits an Oris Caliber 733. This movement is based on the Sellita SW200-1. The watch’s bezel is ceramic, and is the latest upgrade compared to the aluminum bezel found in the Tudor Black Bay 58. The case is also 300 meters resistant and is even more sturdy than the Black Bay.
Final Thoughts
If they can embrace certain design attributes, I think Formex Leaf offers the value of money they once thanked Tudor (and Omega in the early 2000s). You can also see competitive products from other brands featured today, such as Sinn, Oris, and Longines. In fact, this easily becomes a much longer list, and can include options from many other brands such as Monta and Doxa.
But what do you think, Fratelli? Does the rise in Tudor prices create space for smaller players? And do you think of any of the watches highlighted in Black Bay here? Please let me know in the comments.
