Jamie Weiss
Despite the recent marketing term “MIL-SPEC” (abbreviation for military specifications), the connection between the watch world and the military is clear. But in reality, MIL-SPEC represents something much more specific when it comes to watches than the abused buzzword. MIL-SPEC represents a set of standards to keep these things from happening, which is what makes these watches the most stringent in the world. Specifically, the term came to be a shorthand for “US military standards,” which has since become a more commonly used term for military standards of all kinds, or more generally military-spec equipment. Unless these “standards” need to make items as simple as possible on a military budget, but now there’s no need to worry.
But what makes a Mil-Spec watch? Many features can bring watches to MIL spec standards for use in operation, especially aspects such as extreme durability, low reflectivity, high dial readability, and relatively simple features. But all of them have to do a simple job: because they become tools for operators. That’s why there are favorites chosen for use by military forces around the world. They’ve expanded the original usage of MIL-SPEC terms somewhat, but they’re all getting spots on the list.
Casio F-91W
Without OG, you can’t have a list of the world’s hardest and most durable watches. Original hard case, Go-Everywhere, Do-Everything Casio F91W. It’s not a G-Shock, but you might think it’s a go-to for military operatives, but it’s still one of the most durable watches you can buy. This meant that they needed something inexpensive and functional that was particularly popular among newly enlisted people and would help them find their way into training and military life. Functionally, the F91W is one of the simplest watches you can find, featuring a full digital chronograph, an annual calendar with LEAP year adjustments, hourly beeps, backlights and alarms with 30 meters water resistance. It was introduced in 1989 and has become one of the bestselling watches ever made. Price: $60 (or less)
Seiko 5 SNKP21J1
The Seiko 5 is simple and reliable, providing everything the seemingly average wearer needs in any situation. This is certainly a use case for CIA operators, and this particular watch has become a very synonymous word. The CIA has a long history of publishing Seiko Watches until the 60s and 70s, and then in the 80s and 90s, many operatives spent a huge amount of time in the Middle East. This means that “Arabic Seiko” is highly regarded by the CIA community. And frankly, that also looks very cool. This is an outstanding piece with a unique look that is located in the Seiko 5 range. This 42mm watch is made of full stainless steel and has an automatic movement that displays time, day and date. The black dial features sword hand that leads to Eastern Arabian numbers, making the watch stand out as something special. Watches are currently discontinued, but are available in certain outlets. Price: ~$250
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm
When it comes to Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, there’s not much to say you still don’t know. It has 24-hour markings on an easy-to-read black dial, making it one of the most popular picks not just for field watches, but also among the watches in this price range. The 38mm case includes Hamilton’s H-50 movement with an 80-hour power reserve, and the 20mm lug width is extremely versatile in terms of strap options. Price: Starting at $950 from Time+Tide Shop (available at UK stores)
CWC Mellor-72 Mechanical
The Cabot Watch Company Mellor-72 is a homage to the first watch made for the British Ministry of Defense, originally published to the three regiments of the Army, Navy and Air Force. The simple dial with a hand-winding celta in a 38mm case prints Arabic and wide arrow insignia, and the strap is held in place by a fixed spring bar. Price: £460
Benrus Type I and Type II
Benlus was a key supplier of the US military during the Vietnam War, and was equipped with virtually all specialized divisions. MIL-W-50717 specified design details for Benrus production for both Type I and Type II sterilized on a 24-hour scale. Previously unavailable, Benrus offers both Type I and Type II as limited edition models, each in a 42.5mm x 47.5mm case. Price: USD 1,495 (Type I and Type II)
Marathon Large Diver Automatic (GSAR)
The Marathon GSAR is the only watch on this list, actually issued to the military, built on US specifications and provided to the Iraqi and Afghanistan troops. The robust diver boasts a water resistance of 300 meters, and its index and tritium tubes in the hand ensure a constant low light visibility. The 41mm diameter with the Sellita automatic movement can be too big, so the marathon also offers a 36mm version. Price: USD 1,500
Resco BlackFrog UDT
US Navy seals appear to know a lot about MIL spec watches. Therefore, when creating a watch with a sticker, is it better to create one than an actual naval sticker? Retired veteran Rob Smith founded Resco Instruments in 2009 with his wife, U.S. Coast Guard veteran Nicole Smith. They set out to design and manufacture watches that serve the purpose of being sophisticated, simple and sturdy. Specifically, with Resco, the form continues to function, with no dials, subdials and bezels present if they do not serve their purpose. The number generated is relatively low due to the busy military schedule of watchmakers. But many of them have found their way to the active military wrist. The BlackFrog UDT keeps things simple with quartz movements, allowing fewer mechanical components to be wrong in the field. However, in pure terms, the watch can be specified with the Sellita W200 automatic. The 42mm stainless steel is complete with a full DLC coating for durability, and the dial is intentionally dark so it doesn’t shine too bright when you don’t want to see it. Price: $2,940 (quartz), $3,326 (automatic)
MicroMilSpec Millgraph
While many watchmakers have an established reputation for military commission watches, Norwegian micromill specs (hell, it’s in the name!) are separated from other parts of the industry, primarily by producing military commissions. Many of them are completely unique models. The Hardy chronograph is one of only a handful of models made publicly available to Norwegian brands, but it is compatible with operators. The left-hand drive pusher and crown are super slim lines, while the “Quadgrip” bezel is designed for easy operation when wearing gloves. Each subdial is explicitly labeled for maximum readability, but its tough titanium case is in the movement of the Joux-Perret L121. Price: USD 3,850
Tudor Pelagos FXD US Navy
Released in September 2023, the FXD was a somewhat controversial watch at the time. The world of watches begged to reimagining Tudor submarines for what now feels like eternity, and when the watch was teased, they provided submarines in the 1960s and late 80s, introducing reminders of Tudor heritage with the US Navy. It felt like the submarine was on the way. But what we got is the black dial and bezel version of the Tudor Pelagos FXD, a slightly different version of the watch used by French Marines. There are fine watches in every respect, but when discovered a few days later, it cooled the entire heap when the US Navy Seal revealed that it had been active for over a year. Objectively, it’s the perfect dive watch. The 42mm case is titanium, making it lightweight, durable and not overly flashy. There are no spring bars that will break down. Instead, the more unique integrated lug design keeps the straps securely locked in place. The spinning ceramic bezel is bright and very easy to read thanks to the full room, and the dial is spectacularly easy to read behind the anti-reflective crystal, making reading the watch very easy. Feedback from the sticker is understood to be that FXD was a great tool watch. I don’t know you, but I trust their judgment. Price: $6,140
Rolex Explorer II
It may be permissible to think that Rolexes is for the Puffer Vest Wearing Finance-Bros. Often, you will find that the first wound on the clasp will wipe away tears. In many cases you will be right. However, there is a reason why Rolex has a reputation for making some of the best watches in the world. Explorer II is the perfect example of this. It’s a watch that looks like a normal GMT on the surface and endures any amount of desk diving you throw at it, but under the surface there’s a watch as difficult as a claw. I’m really, really hard work. It is issued by apart from SAS, an elite special forces unit of the British Army. It is widely known that these people train the best and best training and run extreme secrets in secret, but a handful have made their way into the open market. It is engraved with a unique serial number and an iconic winged dagger badge, with the motto of “dare win.” Additionally, we know that young Prince Harry wore the Explorer II as his unit watch during his time of active service. Price: $15,550
IWC Big Pilot Watch 43 Top Gun
There’s nothing worse than being hidden in the shadows and being discovered along the way due to bright silver reflective scratches on the watch case. What a nightmare. Well, don’t be afraid, fellow spy players. The IWC has a military field style watch with a boring black ceramic case. Released to celebrate the release of a recent Top Gun movie, IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun is not a film prop. This is a serious kit featuring a 43.8mm full-back ceramic case, a Type A dial for ultimate readability, and the movement of the IWC 82100 to make the watch run perfectly. Designed specifically for military pilots, the Big Pilot Top Gun is perhaps one of the most preferred recent designs in IWC, featuring a simple and easy-to-read dial, a touch of top gun text, a titanium caseback and crown, and a black textile strap. It is definitely one of the “if you know, you know” watches. Price: $15,700
