When asked to compile a list of my favorite watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose came to mind first. So when I got the chance to spend a decent time with it, I jumped on it. I spent a few days on my wrist with this beauty. This is how we got along well.
Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose Chf 17,900. The brand produces 25 of these. Also, a gray dial version limited to 25 and a yellow gold model limited to 15 have appeared along with this.
Specifications of Angelus Chronography Steel Rose
Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose was immediately intrigued as soon as I read about the diameter of 37mm. It is atypical for such a retro chronograph to be run in vintage modified sizes. The stainless steel case is only 9.25mm thick. Angelus pairs with these modest dimensions and relatively oversized 44mm lug-to-lugs, providing the watch with some degree of excellence on the wrist. It has a box-style sapphire crystal up top and a sapphire window on the case back. Angelus rated the watch water resistance to 30 meters.
Internal tick caliber A5000. This monopusher chronograph movement was produced by La Joux-Perret, but is far from the average Ebauche chronograph movement. First of all, this has a 4.2mm profile. Equally important is rare in a world dominated by the Spartan Valjoux 7750 derivatives. The hand-winded caliber runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has 42 hours of autonomy.
This movement features a well-known coat degeneve finish and two-tone colorways in steel and yellow gold. Overall, calibers don’t come across as Ebauche. Angelus has a long history of producing in-house monopusher calibers dating back to 1925.
Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose’s Dial
However, the star of the show here is the dial. Angelus calls it Rose Bronze Dome Dryman. I call it salmon. It features a subdial engraved in strength within the particle-shaped main dial, with circular brushing displayed at the outermost end of the dial. Three finishes on one dial sound like a lot, but the composition doesn’t appear above. In fact, I have not been consciously registered. This is great. Registering is that the dial is constantly changing with the light and always offers something different.
Angelus plates applied indexes with black rhodium. The resulting stiff contrast ensures readability and a very clean and cohesive overall aesthetic.
I have to give special credit to my typography. The typographic tradition of Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose Honors Vintage Watches. This type has all the features of vintage dial printing, including flat top 4 and A, hook 7, open 6 and 9. There is also a distinctive sharp lines to prevent ink from pulling up. Overall, it feels like a vintage dial in every respect, except for the very modern clarity of its execution. It also offers Angelus bonus points for no ugly digital distortion in the font.
Wearing an Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose
Immediately after Angelus Chronographer rose to my wrist, I knew it was right to choose it as a W&W favorite. It somehow combines the best vintage and modern watches. I’m not used to the vintage watches that offer the sharpness, paris and solidity I felt here. Meanwhile, chronographs of this size are certainly rare in today’s market.
The main reason is that there are no calibers available. The most common and affordable chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7750 is over 7mm thick. So you need to go to the high end to find something subtle to use in monitoring these proportions. Unfortunately, most high-end brands tend to make big chronographs that have many visual impacts. But for me, this is how modern Holy Trinity chronographs should feel. Praise, Angelus! spot!
The long lug is completely curved to the outline of my wrist. They provide a stronger presence and make the watch look inty without sacrificing the vintage charm. With a thickness of less than 10mm, the Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose Slides slide under the cuff without any problems. The extremely supple nubuck straps complete a very comfortable package.
Is it subjective or is it?
This watch reminds me of coriander. After all, genetic variation determines people’s response to aldehydes, which contain most of the scent of herbs. You either love it or don’t. I can only imagine Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose splitting the viewer in a similar way. why? Now, because of the sub-dial arrangement.
I think either you love the vintage look or you think you’re crossing it. I’m firmly in the previous category. For me, the two subdials dressed in the center of the dial add a lot of charms. It has a bit of a nasty dissonance to it, it helps to make it more beautiful.
The spacing is the result of the layout of the La Joux-Perret base caliber. The subdial pinion is 5.5mm on the left and right sides of the central hand stack. Angelus makes the most of it by using the resulting space outside the dial for obviously easy-to-read telemeters and fine scales. These are much packed with the wider eye chronograph layout.
Close thoughts
Overall, I can probably say I’m deeply engrossed in the Angelus Chronographer Steel Rose. Its proportions, sophisticated case, beautiful dials, typography and handsome movements all hit the spot. My only complaint is that I will never see it again. With the CHF 17,900 price and a limit of just 25, I’m unlikely to own one or come across someone wearing one. And that’s my lovely fratelli, great sympathy.
What do you think about the new Angelus Chronograph Steel Rose? Let us know in the comments section below!
