Borna Boschunjak
The most common way to break down energy generation in a mechanical watch is to divide the classification between automatic and manual winding watches. The latter is rather self-evident, but automatic watches can take several forms in that the wearer has to wrap the watch themselves. There is a completely new way to generate energy from movement, resulting in inventions such as the Hublot MP-10 and Moritz Grossmann Hamatic. The micro rotor is one of them, employing a small vibration weight along the bridge of movement that allows for slimmer and automatically wound clocks. It was an invention that has never been really caught up in the mainstream sense, and although the progression was almost entirely on the path of slim movement, the micro-rotor still has a cult following due to its unique appearance and rarity. We matched some of the best.
Mr. Barth
If you think the micro rotor is like a signature on a high-end piece, you’re only half right. With the stalled development of affordable Swiss microrotors at the Ronda 2538 Harley in the 1980s, the Baltic Sea had to look elsewhere to introduce the medieval-inspired MR01. The latest update, Roulette, dumped the Breguet figures for sector-like dials, but the Chinese-made Hangzhou 5000A stayed. Some people have doubts about the first departure for watches offered outside the Aliexpress Marketplace, but it has proven to be a reliable performer and looks part of the price. Price: 545 euros (~US$600) from Time+Tide Shop
Yema Superman Slim CMM.20
Yema has been a source of unexpected movement in recent years, and with the introduction of the unique micro-rotor caliber Morteau 20, some parts developed by Olivier Mori and manufactured by Yema, have made the brand’s signature diver even more attractive as Superman’s Slim retains a thickness of 12mm while maintaining a water resistance of 300 meters. It may not be the most highly decorated movement, but at this price you are buying novelty and movement developments. Price: 2,490 US$
Horage replaces the date
Speaking of internal development and transparency, Horage has been defending those qualities since its brand’s founding. Supported by the history of other brands’ movement development through Plus, Horage has forged into the production of watches under its own name for 15 years. The Horage Superseded date is one of the more affordable options in the brand’s catalogue, equipped with a K2 micro rotor movement, with a GMT-like jump hour hand and a 72-hour power reserve case in a 904L steel case. If you want as much Swiss watch as possible, this is close enough to get it. Price: CHF 4,900 (~US$5,500)
Chopard Luc XPS Forest Green
We always order these lists in ascending order of prices and only two things make sense to look at Chopard LUC models early in writing. It’s a sign that the micro rotors are actually reserved for the high-end ones, or that this Chopard is surprisingly affordable, and both are true. The Chopard LUC XPS Forest Green, which comes in a diameter of 40mm, is a larger dress watch for 2024, but the Lucent steel case is just 7.2mm and is super thin. Of course, the height is measured at just 3.3mm thanks to the in-house microrotor movement, the LUC 96.12-L, with two barrels and COSC certification. It is difficult to call those that require a five-digit asking price and those that require a valuable suggestion, but this Chopard certainly outweighs its weight. Price: USD 11,800
BvlgariOcto Finissimo
The name of movement technology suggests a smaller rotor, but the Octo Finissimo Automatic’s micro rotors look genuine to the micro with its wide open display caseback. There is little to say about this watch in any way, such as the many thinness records held by the Octo Finissimo variation, and the fact that Bvlgari has given its legitimacy as more than just a fashion brand watch. Despite all the ultra complex or exotic case models, the basic three-hand October Finisimo is still the best reign for me. Price: USD 13,500
Czapek Promenade
I’m not usually the person who plays a hipster, but I have to say that I’m a singer of Czapek’s praises before it gets cool. Aside from my love for the brand (even in its predecessor era), the success of the integrated bracelet model thankfully did not turn Czapek into a one-trick pony. Now on sale, Gaust Dors was a star with its stunning blue dial, but in my opinion it obscured the unlimited product and SXH5’s movement, as well as the movement of the SXH5, one of the best micro rotors on the market today. The Sunray Guilloché dial and the sub-seconds in the center of the 38mm case are also reasonably appropriate. Price: CHF 17,350 (~US$19,500)
Louis Vuitton Tambourt
Just like what Octo Finissimo did with Bulgari, Louis Vuitton discarded its existing lineup of watches and refreshed it with a new Tambour. In addition to the LV push to bring back high-end brands like Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth, its Fabrique Du Temps workshop, in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers, has equipped it with a tambour with a micro-rotor movement. The decoration of the LFT023 reflects what Louis Vuitton wants to do with Tambour. Price: 19,000 Euro (~20,700 US$)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Golden Siena
It’s extremely encouraging to know that there are still brands out there that listen to customer feedback and act on it, and I can only imagine that is the reason for Tonda PF Golden Siena’s existence. For a long time, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF put on a date window at 6am, and although the colors were usually matched and not overly intrusive, this undated variant proves that it is the correct call. The internal micro-rotor movements are now a few years ago, but there is a lot of parage work on the vibration weight and base plate engraved on the Guilloche, making it so beautiful. Price: CHF 23,500 (~US$26,300)
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Moser has a unique design language, and the already impressive Grand Foo, the small seconds of the blue enamel of Foome, coincides with the stunning micro-rotor movement. Not only is it a great example of what a “modern” finish should actually look, but it also offers impressive depth despite being 4.5mm thick. This is achieved by the intricate skeletonization of the plates, giving the bridge a particularly visible airy atmosphere with the balance wheel and train arrangement. Price: CHF 29,900
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor
Did you know I said that the CZAPEK SXH5 is just one of the most visible micro-rotor movements on the market? That’s mainly because Laurent Ferrier exists, and I can never fully determine the two. Laurent Ferrier, a decent racing driver and creative director of Patek Philippe, has produced particularly stunning micro-rotors. There is a great depth to this movement, with the highlight being the polished bridge suspended the vibrating weight, and vice versa. Assegai’s hands are my personal favorite. Price: CHF 65,000 (~US$73,000)
Biver Automatique
The first biver release is an exercise-priceeded carillon tourbillon, and should be a yardstick for what the father-son duo considers as an “entrance-level” watch. I got the answers of the Biver Automatique and the almost decorated micro rotor caliber created by Dubois Dépraz. I have never seen a guilloche in the moving parts to this extent. Gorgeous, exaggerated, excess – explains how much you like, but at the heart of it, it’s a totally impressive craftsmanship show. Price: CHF 75,000
Monday’s Renault Tixer
All other micro-rotor movements on this list have their own benefits, but Monday’s Renaud Tixier deserves a place to simply advance technology and eradicate the main problems facing micro-rotor movement. RTVI2023 includes vibration weights with a central propeller that amplifies movement due to large masses, ensuring optimal energy production, which is often a drawback of microrotors. Read more detailed Monday’s overview to avoid holding your breath. However, the article itself could be twice as long. But it’s not so surprising considering that the watch was created by one of the most exciting young watchmakers in the Tixer and industry legends like Renault. Price: CHF 79,000 (~US$90,000)
T+T Timeless Pick: Universal Geneva Polar
I’m sure you knew this was coming. The timeless pick on this list may have been on only one watch, not just because I’m writing it… The universal Geneva Polar is appreciated more by the wider collection community, but Gerard Genta’s first design, and the story of defending micro-rotor technology is by no means a plot. It also helps to be one of the most beautiful watches ever made, at least in my opinion. I’m sure I wouldn’t be surprised to learn I’m obsessed with them. Vintage examples can come relatively easily, but I hope Breitling does justice for UG and Polar.
