In the tradition of true watches and wonders, Patek Philippe adorned us with a series of new introductions. The Geneva brand has unveiled 14 new watches and unique desk watches this year. Among them, they are always outstanding. This year’s big releases were neither a very complicated watch nor a new addition to the Nautilus or Aquanaut lineup. Even the new little cubitus model was not a real story about the town of Patek. It was all about the amazing new Calatrava 6196p. However, in the shadow of the watch, Patek Philippe released another Calatrava. New Calatrava 8 Days ref. The 5328G in white gold is the third model in a specific set of Calatrava models first introduced three years ago. Take a closer look at the watch and discuss its relevance.
In 2022, I reported on the release of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326g and Calatrava ref. 5226g. At the time I called them showstoppers. They turned out to be exactly that for multiple reasons. Two Calatrava models presented a new aesthetic that can be labeled with more casual and adventurous labels. Their opinions were as divisive as they were strong. In particular, it seemed like you had to be a lover or dislike, regardless of the reason. But as always, there is a nuance behind the strong opinions. It will be revealed in the release of the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328g. Three years after the release of the first two models, the new watches perfectly show that the aesthetics are here. But let’s look at the watch in the broader context of Calatrava’s lineup.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref Story 5328g
Before diving into the broader context, Nacho wrote an introduction to the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328g. In the article, he explained the details of the watch, so if you want to read more about it, check out his work. In short, the new 41mm white gold model presents a new caliber that has been in development for five years. First, the new caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J has a 192-hour power reserve. This stems from innovations focused on new efficiency through the double barrel construction and the escape of Pulsomax with Silinvar Escape-Wheel and Lever. As a result, the watch has an 8-day power reserve and a ninth extra “spare” day to wind the watch.
Second, the dials that show the power reserve and calendar functions have a vertical layout. It gives the watch a beautiful aesthetic and makes it easier to read. The power reserve indicator is located on the top half of the dial. It displays a clean 8-day power reserve, and a red marker appears on the extra day of the 9th day to warn the wearer to wrap the watch.
In the lower half of the dial is a subdial that will function with the second and calendar of the subsidiary. The smaller of both hands indicates seconds, while the larger the date. A small integrated opening displays the day of the week.
I’ve seen quite a bit of integration of this clever element from Patek Philippe. A great example is reference 5236 with an inline permanent calendar. Last year, Patek unveiled a platinum version of its watch with a stunning salmon-colored dial, which was the outstanding release of Thomas’ brand introduction in 2024. That particular release is in common with Calatrava 8 days, as we will find out later.
Calatrava 8 days ref. 5328g as part of the Calatrava lineup
But first, let’s create some context. Currently, Patek’s Calatrava collection consists of 14 different models. However, these 14 models are spread across eight references, two of which are female references and one is a highly creative Ref. 5088, this is hardly a regular reference. This leaves the references of five gentlemen, splitting them into three classic silhouettes and two more casual references. The former includes a classic style of 39mm ref. 5227, Characteristic ref. 6119 Hobnail bezel and brand new ref. 6196 written by Mike. More casual Calatrava references are four sporty references. The 6007 model was introduced in 2023. Finally, ref. 2022 5226 is basically the date and time version of ref. 5326 It was introduced, and a new ref. 5328 from this article.
Patek Philippe Calatava Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326g (left) and Calatrava ref. 5226G (right)
However, these two are not part of Calatrava’s lineup. As most of you know, Patek Philippe has created a series of watch complications and epic complications with technically superior calibers, regardless of links to its basic collection. That’s the reason for ref. 5326 and ref. The 5328 is part of that series, not the Calatrava lineup, despite the brand calling it the Calatrava model.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time Ref. 5524g
Another example is Calatrava pilot travel time ref. 5524 and travel time Chronograph Ref. 5924 model. This doesn’t even have a basic counterpart in the Calatrava collection. It can also make creating a context for a release a little more challenging. But as we discover, it is important to understand ref. 5328 and their two brothers.
Calatrava 8-day characteristic ref. 5328g of brothers
The connection between these three models is easy to create. All three feature a similar round-shaped white gold case. This design features a slightly chamfered bezel and a stunning hob nail pattern across its sides. As a result, it has been firmly rooted in the past, but it is modern and relevant. All three models combine dials with similar textures as their case. An inspirational reference for the textures of the two charcoal gray dial models introduced in 2022 was the classic body of the photo camera. Whether that gives you extra depth or not, for me, reminds me of my father’s classic Minolta camera, he took photos during his family vacation.
For the new ref. 5328, that reference fades somewhat due to the blue color of the dial. But I enjoy the texture regardless of the tone. It has proven to be an interesting canvas of numbers on the dial. The applied white gold Arabic numbers are filled with white rooms for the new Calatrava 8 days. Matches the overall blue and white color scheme of the dial. Previous models were dark grey and beige combinations for a more vintage overall feel. In my opinion, both work well.
Patek Philippe ref. 5172g
The connection works deeper than it appears to be the first
But focus on the applied numbers and syringe style hands. Because it’s an interesting place. If you know the Patek Philippe collection, you will recognize the style as we see it I also used it in a more classic style model. A great example is the gorgeous white gold ref. 5172 Chronograph Available with either a blue dial or a stunning salmon dial. As you can see, there is a clear kinship between these chronographs and the Calatrava model.
Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Permanent Calendar
But that’s not where it ends. Don’t forget to mention ref. 5320G with an inline permanent calendar? It also uses some of the above mentioned design elements. These features tie all these models together and become family regardless of the dialing run.
Patek Philippe ref. 5373p Left-handed Chronograph
Before we proceed, we need to mention another model. Destr Chronograph ref. The platinum 5373, which was announced in October 2022, also has similar design characteristics. Over time, it has become a recognizable style for brands that do not exist in their current collections. The figure style dates back to the 1940s, with classic chronographs from brands such as REF. 130, successor, ref. 530, and ref. Especially 1579. You can also see the syringe-style hands used in references. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”.
Legendary ref. 1591 – Image: John Goldberger
However, the combination of numbers and syringe style hands is connected to the historically famous Patek Philippe ref. 1591. This water-resistant, permanent calendar with bright dials and hands was a direct inspiration for the bibliography. 5320 above. This style laid the foundation for today’s watches.
Return to Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328
So where does this leave the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref? 5328? First of all, it’s great to see the large-scale Calatrava model look running far deeper than many of the discussions in 2022. I was already a fan of Calatrava ref. 5226 and Calatrava Annual Calendar Travel Time ref. 5326 From 2022. This new Calatrava 8-Day Ref. The 5328 reminded me of how much I enjoy all three of these models. Plus, it was eye-opening to see that the designs were so deeply rooted in the brand’s style that it made it easier to view these Calatravas even more.
On the wrist, the Calatrava 8-day style is converted to a watch that holds the middle between the siblings and ref. 5172 Chronograph. The blue and white combination removes it from the more adventurous style, giving it a slightly more stylish and even formal overall presence. It’s a joy to wear with a 41mm case that is only 10.52mm thick. Plus, realizing that this watch is slim with calendar complications and is easy to read thanks to its vertical layout, it was outstanding for me with this year’s release.
Final Thoughts on Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328g
This thin profile reminded me of my connection to the Calatrava Ref. 6119. They share a pattern of hobnails despite being a completely different watch. Because that’s what this insight sums up. I love the more adventurous style of the three Calatrava models, but many people don’t. Whether you don’t like the dial texture or the overall, more adventurous style of these references, it’s completely fair. However, it’s good to create a little context to make sure that the style is deeply rooted in the brand’s collection. After that, the watch makes more sense.
A highly preferred Calatrava ref. 6196p
Now we can debate whether these three models are the appropriate Calatrava models. But for me, they are. And it is based on the fact that they have an aesthetic connection with other models. But even more importantly, Patek Philippe creates fluidity in the collection, allowing brands to place completely different designs in their Calatrava series. Sometimes it can be hard to figure out why a brand mixes things up with a variety of Calatrava models so dramatically.
As a former brand strategist, I sometimes find it difficult to follow Patek Philippe’s basis on some of its decisions. But as a fan of branded watches, I think it leads to a great variety in classics like the popular Calatrava ref. This Calatrava like 6196p and more modern model 8 day ref. 5328G deserves praise. Ultimately, that’s the most important thing for me. Finding excitement within the series. And that’s exactly what I found in the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328g.
