The Buffy Acacia Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is back in 18K Rose Gold. It uses salmon and charcoal dial tones to give it a much more dressy look than previous steel models. The automatic El Primero 3610 has a 1/10 second chronograph with weekday, moon and moon faces and a 60-hour power reserve.
Most famous people in watchmaking dabbles in a variety of styles, but few have mastered the connection between vintage and modern like Zenith. As if retro reissues and contemporary ceramic pieces aren’t enough in themselves, watches like GFJ are a surprising example of how both worlds collide. However, while the Swiss legendary chronometry has focused primarily on innovation recently, the new Chronomaster’s original triple calendar gold pays another tribute to the early El Primaro refinement with a rose gold twist.
Some people recall Zenith along with designs from the 2000s under the leadership of Thierina Tough. But while there’s nothing wrong with the bold Y2K monsters, the current trend is even more modest. The improved Zenith is actually one of the fastest brands to adopt smaller, vintage-actuated case sizes, and the Zenith Chronomaster’s original triple calendar gold is the same. This was run in 1970 with 25 prototypes and now uses the legendary A386 case between Chronomaster and El Primero collectors. At 38mm diameter, it is the same as its predecessor, but does not feel the old-fashioned feeling on your wrist. The lug-to-lug distance is only 46mm, making it even more wearable and has the appeal of unisex. Perhaps the most striking part of the case is because, in fact, the lug brushing is actually done in a sunburst pattern emitted from the dial rather than in a straight or circular shape. In contrast to the refined champhar and bezel, it is a very impressive and unique effect.
When Zenith reissued the stainless steel version of the watch last year, the gray, green and panda dials performed the inherent sports of the Chronomaster personality. The rose gold version is naturally dressy at the moment. The charcoal background features a smoky plot, with the 10th scale and chronograph subdial in rose gold bringing the same warm elegance as the salmon dial. Moon phase complications are particularly appealing in the vacuum black sky, contrasting with the rose gold moon and stars, but weekday and moon indicators blend subtly together. I’m sure there will be people who will see the hackles rising in the 4:30 date window, especially as they will be cut to some of the printed numbers, but the entire dial is well balanced to escape with that minor design crime.
Of course, it’s very noteworthy to think of the El Primaro on the back of the Chronomaster’s original triple calendar, packing the extra complications into a 14mm height. The original El Primero was intended to address such modular complications, so the prototype came out just a year after the original’s release. This automatic chronograph has a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, resulting in a time interval of 1/10 seconds. The middle second hand runs faster, so there’s a running second hand, a 60 minute counter on 6, and another 60 second counter on 3. Moonface and weekday display adjustments are made via hidden pushers on the side of the case, but the moon is adjusted by scrolling through the Crown Quick Set Day. The view through the Sapphire caseback is impressive. WindingRotor is skeletonized to reveal the open scenery of El Primero.
Gold Prices and Availability of Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
Zenith Chronomaster’s original triple calendar gold is now available. Price: CHF 25,400
Brand Zenith Model Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Gold Reference 18.3400.3610/21.C911 Case Dimensions 38mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) Case Material 18K Rose Gold Water Resistance 50m Crystal Opening Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, 1/10s Chronograph, Date, Day, Month Availability Now Available Price CHF 25,400
