Russell Sheldrake
Christopher Ward has become a bit of a beast over the last few years. Since the rise of the stratosphere of Belcanto, semi-British half-Swiss brands have taken the industry by storm. Now its follow-up, the C12 Loco, is a conceptually simple watch with extremely complex execution.
I call this work the best way possible, the Bell Cant Killer. I have been a huge fan of the brand’s Sonnerie AU passage for a long time, but despite more than impressive sales, I have always looked at it as a slightly niche watch. A certain degree of understanding of the history of the chiming mechanism is required to fully understand the complex movements of the watch and what it has accomplished. But to fully appreciate the C12 Loco, you just have to look at it. Of course, the work and innovation that Christopher Ward’s team has done is not just the depth here, but the visual impact of seeing the free balance flying on the dial held in place by the elongated bridge is fascinating no matter your level of clock education.
So why does this next chapter of Christopher Ward’s story make it so important? It is less complicated from a purely functional perspective than the Bell Cant, but offers more from a classic watchmaking perspective. The CW-003 move is an excellent demonstration of how far the brand’s ability to develop movements has come in such a short time. With a balanced visual on both the front and back, you can see that there was a lot of work on what this watch looks like and what it means to make it as visually enjoyable as possible. So let’s dive into the details of this watch.
Movement
We have no choice but to start with the movement. The CW-003 is a heavily reworked SH21, not only adding an expanded fleece pulling balance, but also creating a day of additional power reserves from 5 to 6. This is achieved through two barrel systems fully displayed via a sapphire case held in place by a beveled cock that allows for a complete view of the texture that is industrially applied to each. In this movement, the impressive element, or lack thereof, cannot further expose the gear train, winding mechanism, or twin barrel, but the gear train is completely hidden under the large plate.
However, this movement is not only visible through the caseback, but also has the main attraction, a free, open balance that controls the dial at 6 o’clock. It spins at a standard 4Hz, but thanks to the size of this balance wheel, it appears to achieve a higher beat rate. Regulated by screws, this is a great display of what Christopher Ward can achieve at home today thanks to the development and manufacturing of integrated movements in beer. Watches are regulated to stay between -0/+7 seconds per day. The development of this movement was not easy and not long-term. Once you’ve finished reading this, I recommend watching the documentary on Christopher Ward’s YouTube channel.
Going back to how carefully aesthetics are being considered at every step here, I mentioned that the gear train was hidden, so it’s clear that which part of the movement of this watch wants to focus on you. With the expanded power reserve offered by the two barrels and the enchanting, free-sprung balance, the only aspect you’re always on display is where the brand has placed an R&D budget and what sets this watch apart.
Dial
We already cover the main attractions of the dial, but we would like to highlight the genius team from the genius team from the Maidenhead-based Christopher Ward design team, in contrast to the Beer athletic development team. This simply adds the effect of movement on the dial that balance already brings.
In addition to these components, there is a lot of dead space on both the dial and the movement side. These will play in light, but remain intentionally uncharacteristic given the brushing, which can come with four different colors. With standard white and black or even brighter options, orange and blue, the watch gives it a much more energetic and youthful feel. We are used to seeing Christopher Ward’s vibrant colors in many iterations of Bell Cant, but these are two shades that we haven’t seen yet, and we feel that they deserve such an edgy, contemporary watch.
case
This watch makes sense in the case of the Bell Cant and may be its natural successor, but the decision to place it in the case of the 12 people, the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch, gives me a much more authentic vibe. This watch is modern and youthful with its edgy design, but I don’t think that’s the case with Bel Canto. The 41mm diameter measurement is very well worn thanks to the short lagtoo lug of 47.5mm, and its thickness of 13.7mm sounds more awkward than the wrist, as almost 4mm of its thickness comes from the front and back crystals.
But the angled case here simply acts as a frame where you can see the movement and the dial, but that doesn’t mean it’s an afterthought. I appreciate the inclined lugs and angled mid-cases that build a sporty aesthetic, but the bezel and caseback material is kept to a minimum. The crown is screwed, but the watch achieves water resistance of 30m. This feels a little low on watches that appear in such sporty cases and rubber straps. However, the fact that there is a crown crown makes this feel truly water resistant to 30m, and it’s not something you need to be nervous when going out to a light shower.
strap
These watches are available with dial matching rubber straps with unfolded clasps. The end of the spring bar is pinched so it can be attached via a very easy-to-use quick release system and, if necessary, can be replaced with the same matching bracelet as seen on the 12. A super comfortable option to drape wonderfully and if I bought it, it would be my choice as they are sold separately from the straps.
verdict
As I mentioned at the top, I call this the Bell Cant Killer. Bel Canto was visually and auditory interesting once an hour, while C12 Loco is interesting every time you see it. I feel that this barrier to entry from a knowledge perspective of this clock is lower than that of Bel Canto. You should also consider the platform on which Bel Canto was launched and compare it to the platform on which Loco is running. The two companies are barely recognised, mainly thanks to the success of Bel Cant. For me, this means that as the company matures and the supply chain is successful, Loco is better positioned for success, and now I feel ready to offer watches that capture the imagination of the market.
This watch feels like a success, and what defines Christopher Ward’s new era is when you move forward from the Bell Cant with a non-derived but evolutionary watch. The brand has learned the meaning of creating such a popular watch, and is now trying to capture that magic again. Time will tell if this “simple” time-only watch can do just that.
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Pricing and Availability
The Christopher Ward C12 Loco is on sale in the first place as the 750 will be available for pre-order on Thursday the 24th at 3pm on BST, with more available later that year. Prices: £3,795, USD 4,595, €4,950 (rubber strap), £3,995, USD 4,825, €5,205 (bracelet).
Brand Christopher Ward Model C12 Loco Case Dimensions 41mm(d)x 103.7mm
