The 1990s were a time of major changes in the watch industry. These years were a period of reorganization and continuous recovery after the disability quartz crisis 20 years ago. Today we are considering the 1990s watch and design principles to consider whether they can stimulate the next trend in the watch industry.
Is it just me, or wasn’t it long ago in the 90s? It’s crazy to think they were now 26 to 35 years ago! So, it can be said that quite a while has passed since then. Over the years, my tastes have changed quite a bit. Just look at the watch to make the car design, fashion and of course, to make this happen. But over the past decade or so, we have seen the trends in heritage design over the past decade or so, with a focus on design from the 1950s to the 1970s, and in particular design from the 1950s.
Was it the time for a comeback in the 1990s?
More recently, I’ve seen them start to turn again towards the 1980s (I’m looking at you, a two-tone Rolex Explorer). The 1980s have become popular these days, and to recognize this, you need to remember the Kith x Tag Heuer F1 collaboration. But what about the 1990s? Is there anything in the notion that ten years can stimulate the next stage of reissuing watches?
At Watches and Wonders 2025, we saw Tudor unveil the new Black Bay 58. The Tudor Submariner prototype would have featured a red dial and a bezel. Will this be a rumour for brands that are increasingly aware of in their 1990s back catalogues? Only time can be seen.
Pierce Brosnan as James Bond
Did 1990s watches have a well-defined look?
If you look at a clock between 1990 and 1999, you will notice that it is not as “time” as the 1970s or 1980s watches. For example, if you consider the 1970s, consider a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Considering the 1980s, what comes to mind, at least for me, is something that’s two-tone or perhaps blocky shape. By saying “block-shaped,” I’m referring to watches like the Doxa Sub 600t from the Aubry era. The 1950s and 1960s were also the era of great innovative watch design. Perhaps there was no clear theme in either decade, except that each had been committed to breaking (or expanding) the boundaries between exploration and science, or aesthetics and design.
Image: Zeitauktion
Perhaps one of the most iconic watch designs of the 1990s should be the Omega Seamaster 300m. It marked a whole new look for the sailor, reflecting a more avant-garde approach. It created the first important cultural figure in the 1995 James Bond film Goldeneye, starring Pierce Brosnan as the bond of the same name. Watch – Quartz Seamaster 300m Ref. 2541.80.00 – Skeletonized hands and scalloped bezels have the characteristic that has come to mean the modern Seamaster 300m line. The watch bracelet also had a 1990s style. Did the 1990s have an easily recognizable look? The short answer is “No.” Because there was no single watch to set the standard for 10 years. However, I argue that the Omega Seamaster 300m is as close as any watch to meet its purpose.
Image: Zeitauktion
Ten years of both experimentation and return to classic hits
The brand had a very different approach to looking at designs in the 1990s. Let’s start with Tudor, for example. It began forking from Rolex, heading down an avant-garde road, releasing designs that are bolder (and less elegant) than the core catalogue of Tudor submarines and Oyster models. The release included watches such as Prince Dating’s “Tiger” chronograph and Hydronaut, a slightly submarine-like submarine. This shows that brands trying to get out of Rolex’s shadow have been faced with relegation to airport watch brand status. Unfortunately, these model lines weren’t as successful as Tudor had hoped for, so in the 1990s the brand continued to disappear into the shadow of Rolex.
Looking at this era of Tudor watches, there are still some great bargains. The design remains divisive, but there’s something about the hydronote, especially my favorite. The Hydronote debuted in 1998/99, so it is worn out as a 1990s watch, but I feel that much of its design’s ratios are widely representative of the era. The “faggy” nature of design is not very similar to the Omega Seamaster of the time. Tudor’s experiments endured in the 2000s and ultimately failed (with these specific model lines). Perhaps it was Tudor’s return to classic designs (Black Bay) from the 1950s that secured the brand’s current success.
The Second Golden Age of IWC
The 1990s were a great year for IWC Schaffhausen. In fact, it’s not uncommon for enthusiasts to call this the second golden age of the brand. The IWC design was very important about returning to classic hits. The Mark XII and XV were essentially technically upgraded versions of the Mark 11 Pilot’s Watch. Pilot chronograph ref. The 3706 Pilot’s chronograph had similar design languages. Ibid for reference. The 3705 ceramic chronograph is an impressive feat of the time. Big Pilot ref. 5002 in 2002 was a little more avant-garde place for the brand in its design decisions. With the power reserve indicators on the dial and the crucially up-to-date specifications, this was the bold engineering part of the new millennium.
IWC enthusiasts note that the designs that came from Schaffhausen’s watchmakers in the 1990s seemed particularly bold and strong. This has partly to do with the fact that they are very similar to instrumentation. They lacked an exaggerated air and were a cool alternative to Rolex watches. This was considered a conservative option. It’s not uncommon to hear that IWC in the 1990s was considered an anti-Rolex option for discerning buyers. But there’s a problem here. IWC leaned towards a historic design language, so I don’t think it’s fair to say that the tool watch looked particularly “the 1990s.” But the 10-year spirit doubled the mechanical watch after the quartz crisis – was proud.
Seiko was built on the success of dive watches
Seiko did an incredible job of expanding the options for mechanical dive watches in the 1990s. The famous SKX series debuted in that decade, paving the way for “Clocking Culture” as we understand today. By supplying a robust, water-resistant, reliable mechanical watch at a price range that many can afford, it greatly supported the overall exposure and viewing of mechanical timekeeping in the 1990s. I think it’s fair to say that these Japanese brands outweighed their weight in order to maintain a vibrant and prosperous mechanical watch culture in the 1990s.
Again, we are faced with a bit of a dilemma here. For example, was the SKX007 considered the definitive design of the 1990s? I’m not sure. The case and mobile phone showed a clear impact from the Seiko dive watch that preceded it. The SKX was an evolution, not an evolution in watch design. It was a lasting reference that continued to gain the love and support of countless enthusiasts and “normal” watch wearers. Of all the watches of the 1990s, this probably helped to enhance the future of mechanical timekeeping the most.
Will watches in the 1990s affect trends over the next few years?
More has been considered and written about this topic. I think it’s difficult to pinpoint what exactly “the 1990s look” was. This makes it an attractive opportunity for brands to revisit classics from this era. why? Because many brands approach things differently over the decade. Some looked back, while others were looking forward to it.
But what do you think, Fratelli? Do you think it’s an iconic watch design from the 1990s? And what are the “clearly 1990s” designs to return to modern watchmaking? I look forward to reading your suggestions in the comments.
