This year, many brands are celebrating a variety of milestones. One of the most relevant anniversary of 2025 is Zenith’s 160th time. It’s an important milestone, but Zenith treated us to a highly selected anniversary model during the fair. It maintains a strong focus, so I can greatly appreciate it. The most notable watch was undoubtedly the New Senith GFJ, where this special 160th anniversary edition brings back the legendary Zenith Caliber 135. Plus, it is the first model in a complete new product line of the brand’s collection. Find out more about New Zenith GFJ
With its construction to watches and wonders, Zenith has cleverly deleted all posts on social media. This launched a big speculation game about what the brand had planned to celebrate its 160th anniversary with Watches and Wonders. If you’re a Zenith fan, you probably quickly understood the focus of the Geneva Fair. It was pretty easy to recognize Zenith would do anything to highlight his impressive track record in the Observatory’s chronometer competition. It is a big story of the brand’s “other” next to the famous El Primaro Caliver heritage. With the new GFJ, Zenith will revive the famous Caliber 135. After all, a modernized version of this legendary movement is more than just one time.
Zenith GFJ – brings another story to the current catalogue
In my introduction articleI have already explained a special story about Zenith GFJ. I will never go through the entire story again, but I will stick to the headline so that I can talk about the actual watch. As a reminder, Zenith’s cThe Aliber 135 is the most awarded movement since the golden age of observatory chronometer competition. The 230 Chronometry Awards won over the years are a record to date. To be a little more precise, it was the caliber 135-O. The brand was created specifically for the chronometry competition at the Observatory in Neukatel, Geneva, Cueddington, and Bethanson. In addition to that, Zenith has also created approximately 11,000 regular versions of the Calibre 135 for the standard production model.
Zenith has recreated this legendary movement to promote a new GFJ anniversary edition. However, the brand must not forget to update its caliber 135. In the newer version, Zenith kept the classic architecture of the original caliber. Quickly stand out is the oversized balance wheel featuring regulation screws, hairsprings with Bregget over coils, and a distinctive double-arrow regulator for fine adjustment.
Updated Zenith Caliber 135
Most importantly, Zenith has completely redesigned and updated its movement with modern technical solutions and materials. First, the power reserve increased from 40 hours to 72. This was made possible by a new main spring using Generale Resorts bioflex alloy. Second, the new gear train features optimized tooth geometry to improve caliber efficiency.
Like the vintage version, the Revamped Caliber 135 runs at 18,000 VPH. However, watchmakers increased the number of gems from 19 to 22, increasing their efficiency. Another latest improvement is the addition of a hacking mechanism. This allows the wearer to set the second time accurately. Finally, this movement is a COSC certified chronometer that adjusts Zenith runs within ±2 seconds per day.
Zenith “brick” pattern with signature
Zenith carved the caliber with a “brick” guillotine pattern to visually enhance the caliber. It’s a finishing style that we don’t often see. It was inspired by the red and white painted bricks that form the letters of GFJ at Zenith production. As you probably know, the initials refer to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. I really like this decorative pattern because it is original and gives off an Art Deco feel. On top of that, the bricks quickly refer to the world of architecture, and I think it feels good.
This pattern is a more traditional finishing style, such as the circular satin brushing on the barrel cover and the black polished finish on the crown wheel. Plus, the large gems bring a welcoming touch of colour. Overall, finishing here adds incredible talent to this modern version of the classic movement. The choices Zenith made to decorate movement atypical is an approach I understand and love. However, if you’re more interested in finishing up traditional movements, this may take longer to get used to.
The amazing charm of Zenith GFJ
The latest version of Zenith’s Caliber 135 is housed in an elegant 39.15mm platinum case with 10.5mm thick and 45.75mm lagtoo lugs. The new case design perfectly balances vintage influences and modern relevance. The bezel is neatly stomped to give it a character, and the mix of brush and polished finish adds a visual glow. I love this case style and we have to put it in context as this 160th annual GFJ is not just a one-off. But we get to that a bit.
Inside the case is a dial that reveals its true glow only when you see it in real life. As I explained, the three-part dial has many nice details. It starts with a combination of the small second subdials of the Lapis Lazuli Center and Mother-of-Pearl. Despite their different textures and visual presence, it’s great to see how well the two complement each other. Additionally, the Lapis Lazuli parts only come with applied Zenith Star, brand logo and model name. Things are purposefully kept easily to maximize impact.
Seeing is just as good as it seems…
The third part is a blue outer ring with an engraved brick pattern that adorns the movement. This ring holds an applied facet time marker and a series of 40 small hand-applied beads that act as micromarkers. These well-executed but functional details add a lot of refinement to the dial. Thin, faceted, pointed baton hands neatly conclude the overall aesthetic. Keeps the elegant look while making it easier to read. The small second hand is also simple in style, so the mother-of-pearl subdial gives the largest amount of space shine.
This cleverly designed dial is the great eye-opener of this 160th anniversary GFJ, and we all agree that looking at metal watches makes all the difference here at Fratero. That’s when the details really come back to life, and the bright blue shades have the greatest impact. Also in an intro article, Zenith said he would create 160 of this limited edition. Each one will be featured on a blue leather strap to match the dial.
The importance of Zenith GFJ
However, if you want the most influential version of this watch, you can also order it with a full platinum bracelet. I got a preview of the Geneva bracelet, but take it to a completely different level. The seven rows of bracelets are wonderfully detailed and extremely comfortable, greatly enhancing the watch’s presence. Looking at the watch with a bracelet is one of the many highlights of this year’s watch and wonders. I was a little excited when I wrote the introductory article based on the press kit, but the image of the bracelet was not included. But when I finally saw the watch on a bracelet and all the different details that make it an absolute pleasure to see the dial, I was sold quickly.
The excitement grew even further when Zenith announced that GFJ was not a one-off creation. As the brand has explained between watches and wonders, this first GFJ model marks the beginning of a new product line. The plan is to release at least one GFJ model with a revised caliber of 135 per year. Future models will have the same case with a variety of precious metals. Additionally, you will see various dials on the new watch. It’s an exciting idea and I can’t wait to see what’s next. In parallel with the introduction of GFJ, Zenith has announced that the current elite line will be cancelled. That makes sense as the Elite feels like the least relevant product line in the Zenith collection.
Where Zenith GFJ fits
More importantly, the new GFJ line adds relevance based on story and design. I think sharing other historically important stories is a smart move by Zenith. The Caliber 135 has a great legacy that shows that there is more to the zenith than the El Primero. Plus, it makes sense for this brand to make this product line a completely high-end proposal. In a recurring episode of clocks and wonders in last week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Robert-Jan said the GFJ line could be that of Chopard’s LUC collection. This is a great idea.
This allows Zenith to come up with a series of watches powered by the Modern Calibre 135, tapping directly into the center of the brand’s history. On top of that, I like the modern updates and the incredible finish of the caliber.
Watches you want to know more
Gerald stated in his article that he covers his favorite watches and questions. On the move side, I wonder that GFJ is not as modern as ever as a successor to everything in the past. I strongly oppose our resident Frater veterans about it. The new caliber is 100% of the latest version of the classic Zenith 135. Certainly, the architecture of time-only clocks is not as visually exciting as a chronograph. However, the recognition that this particular movement was able to win an astounding number of station chronometer awards gives it a connection with its modern successor purpose. Whether or not the architecture is visually appealing is a matter of personal aesthetic taste at that point.
With the news that more GFJ watches can be expected, we will soon be wondering if future models will display a variety of finishes and styles. I think Zenith has the best creative team in the industry right now. I think we are always finding great ways to push boundaries while respecting the rich history of our brand. So for now, there’s no doubt we’ll see a better follow-up for this first GFJ. The 160th Year Model is the perfect example of Zenith’s incredible creative team work, and one of the great introductions of this year’s watches and wonders.
