Welcome to another Evergreens article. This is a Fratello series that asks if you’ve got a watch that’s been around for over a decade, or have enough watches to feel ubiquitous and have stood the test of time. We’ll explain whether they’re still relevant, how they feel today, and ultimately whether they’re worth the current price. In some cases, if the author owns/owns a particular piece, we dig into how their feelings towards them have evolved and whether they still deserve a spot in their collection. Today I am honored to feature my beloved 2006 all-steel Cartier Santos de Cartier XL.
Over the past few years, I have written a lot about my Cartier Santos Garbe. Because it’s one of my favorite watches. So if you’re looking for a very objective article on this watch, there are plenty of historical overviews out there, but you don’t need to go that far. I think the late George Cramer wrote one of the best summary articles when Cartier decided to suspend the Santos Galbet XL in 2016. But we’ll also start with a quick historical overview for readers who don’t want to click.
Cartier Santos in 1912 – Image: Cartier
The History of Cartier Santos (Des Cartier)
Louis Cartier developed this now-famous Square Wistwatch for his pilot friend Alberto Santos Dumont. The latter found it troublesome to take out his pocket watch while trying to break flight records while living in Paris. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented him with Cartier Santos, a square yellow gold watch with screws that holds crystals. Its robust design inspiration comes from the Eiffel Tower, with some saying that Roman figures refer to the layout of the streets of Paris and the wide boulevards.
Santos Garbe XL next to Santos in 1978 – Image: George Cramer
In 1911, Cartier Santos became regular production, and until 1978 it was the only type of Santos available. This means that it is always made of gold or platinum and can only be used with (leather) straps. In that sense, Cartier Santos was more of a dress watch for the few happy people than a mass sports watch. In 1978, Cartier introduced the first steel and Gold Santos de Cartier. What’s unique about this Santos was that it also comes with a matching steel bracelet with gold screws. The bracelet was not truly integrated with the case, but perhaps Cartier’s answer to the trend that Royal Oak, Nautilus and Ingeneur began their decade earlier. However, compared to these watches, the full steel version that came out later is particularly low cost.
(Me) Santos de Cartier Galve XL
The first version of the Santos de Cartier still had some sharp angles, especially when it came to transitioning from case to lug. Also, the link on the bracelet was very “square” (actually rectangular). For this reason, it is often called Santos Carre. In 1987, Cartier introduced the Santos de Cartier Garbe of Carbia. It abolished those hard corners and the bracelet links were convex shaped. Finally, in 2005, Cartier introduced the Santos de Carvier Galve XL ref. 2823. This is my favorite watch. Diameter 32mm, lug-to-lug length 45mm.
Inside there is an ETA 2892 automatic movement, designated by Cartier as caliber 049. Runs at a frequency of 28,800VPH, features 21 gems and holds a power reserve of 42 hours. It’s not an impressive in-house movement (or square shape in that respect), but for the price, I think it’s still a capable and reliable caliber. What’s more, the watchmaker can serve it, which is very convenient. With its 3.6mm profile, it is fairly slim, giving this Santos Galbée an overall thickness of 8.8mm.
Elephant in the Room: Current Santos de Cartier
So is the 2005 Cartier Santos Galve XL still relevant? La Maison suspended it in 2016 and reintroduced the Santos de Cartier two years later. The case received updates in terms of that percentage, but the watch has internal movements. But the most noticeable difference for me is the “overflowing” bezel, not the square one. I like the new medium sized Santos de Cartier dateless dial. Furthermore, although the case diameter is slightly larger, a shorter length of 42mm will make it very well worn on many sizes of wrists.
However, you can’t overcome the polished bezel flowing through a brushed bracelet. It simply doesn’t do it for me. I love the contrast between the Galve XL brushed case and the polished square bezel. It emphasizes the uniqueness of Santos’ designs. Contrast is exactly what it is. On the one hand, the Roman figures, their curves and small size make it feel like an elegant watch. Meanwhile, screws, stainless steel bracelet, square dial and bezel transform it into a sports watch. The designer feels that he has taken it a step too far with the overflowing bezels of the current Santos de Cartier model.
Is it worth it?
The medium-sized brand new Santos de Cartier currently costs 7,700 euros. Based on Chrono24 data, the Santos Galbée XL sells for an average price of 6,000 euros. In fact, it’s the most expensive thing since Chrono24 began tracking in 2013. However, I think we can find a little less due to the current state of the watch market and the fragile geopolitical situation. Let’s say there’s a price difference of 2,000 euros between the new Santos de Cartier and the Neo-Vintage Santos Galbée XL.
If you want a pristine watch, going straight from the Cartier Boutique to a brand new Santos may not be that stretchy. That way, at least start with a pristine, polished bezel. Also, you will get upgraded bracelets with QuickSwitch and SmartLink systems, so you don’t need any leather straps or tools to replace them with sizes. However, you will need to bear with the new bezel shape.
If you prefer a square bezel, I don’t think the Santos Galve XL is a bad option. Find one with unbrushed screws to match the rest of the bracelet. The internal movement is reliable enough, but replacing the bracelet for something else can be a little difficult. Again, it looks best with a bracelet anyway. Therefore, if you want to wear Cartier Santos on leather straps, we recommend purchasing a more elegant Santos Damon.
The final words
I’m still over the moon with the Cartier Santos Garbe XL I bought five years ago. I have no idea about replacing it with a new one. It’s comfortable and looks great in a variety of situations. I also find it unique in the overall landscape of the clock design. Yes, for me, Galbée XL is still very relevant, with the current Santos de Cartier as an option. But what do you think? Is the square bezel important to me and to you, or do you prefer the modernized Santos de Cartier? Please let us know what you think in the comments below.
