Tom Austin
One of the refreshing things about microbrands is that they are willing to break molds and not follow typical watchmaking practices. They often create their own design language, apply it to traditional concepts, and in the process they produce very interesting watches. Usually, we start with a standard recipe with a simple round case and bezel, expansion lug, no crown guard, and generally major complications. The rest is open canvas, ready for designers to become creative and come up with something fresh. Havid Nagan is a young brand in the process of defining its style and language of design, drawing inspiration from the principles of design of the 18th and 19th centuries and a clear focus on adding a modern twist.
Founded in California by designer Allen Bazelcanians, Havid Nagan specializes in the concept of établissage. This essentially means using a network of manufacturers to produce all the elements of the watch, and at the last moment they put it all together and complete it all. This sounds like a normal modern industrial procurement practice, but of course, tradition is tied to watchmaking. Back in the 18th century, watchmaking was mostly a cottage industry, and the labor sector of watchmakers in the UK, Germany, France and Switzerland meant these workers could produce parts from their homes in quiet times. These are collected by “établisseurs” and assembled into a complete watch.
This was a process that ultimately declined quite a bit as most large watchmakers moved their production systems within the company. But today, the surge in microbrands that enter the space at so many different levels has allowed this model to revive, allowing brands like Havid Nagan to flourish. The brand released its first watch in 2022, the limited edition cushioned Guilloche style HN00. This was followed by the 2023 HN01 Lucine Moon Phase, followed by another modern cushioned watch that captured a selection of classic details and finishes. And now, after learning many lessons along the way, the brand is ready to showcase its latest watch, the classic watch.
case
It was important for Nagan’s founder Allen Bazelkanian to maintain the proportion of classic wearables, so the 316L stainless steel case fits 38mm in diameter and 9mm in thickness. These proportions mean they don’t feel fragile, but they sit in a sweet spot similar to the clocks of an inspired era. The elegant rug is a very refined scalloped side, in contrast to the brushed finishes you find elsewhere in the case. Additionally, the watch maintains a 50-meter water resistance rating.
Dial
The classic is a modern take on a classic watch with a round shape design, utilizing a typical Calatrava-like layout, baton hour markers, a central hour and minute, and a small second dial at 6 o’clock. It looks traditional, but there are also some modern features here. First, the colors with finely textured central dial plates are finished off white or black with slight gradient effect.
The light dial features a contrasting touch of orange and red, while the black keeps things more monochromatic. Both dial configurations are overlaid on sapphire rings, stretching the time markers, displaying subdial indexes, and hovering over a baseplate finished with a Clous de Paris Tronqué Guilloché finished in either ivory or black. It has a unique look that gives the watch a sporty Mitsu-grade aesthetic.
strap
The classics allow for multiple strap options created by Jean Rousseau Paris. One option is a light brown crocodile strap, while the other is a green textile, and we’re beginning to look across many more traditionally styled contemporary watches, such as the new code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet. This seems to be a trend towards a younger audience of leather, so it makes sense that the classics offer something else. All straps are secured by a 316L stainless steel buckle.
Movement
The watch is powered by the AMT6600, a chronometer certified caliber by the Sellita Specialist Division of AMT Manufacturing. It’s great to see that this is not a pre-made ETA or Serrata movement. Honestly, that’s fine, but it looks like all micro-brands are starting their watches on the SW200 recently.
The AMT6600 looks great. As seen through the caseback at the exhibition, it is a large movement filling the case, decorated with polished screws, dark ruthenium treated skeletonized bridges and 5N gold treated finish hammered with main plateau. This clean design gives this manual winding movement a very modern look. The caliber is COSC certified, and features a modified barrel that beats at 4Hz and offers a 63-hour power reserve. Overall, this movement has an impressive and smart design at this price range, and it’s a welcome sight to see what’s used.
verdict
The classic is an interesting next step for Havid Nagan. It’s very different from previous watches, but it can translate the vision of capturing aspects of traditional design and converting them into modern ones. The price of USD 9,000 is very fair considering how unique this piece is, the level of movement details and the delivery of something different on the dial. If you’re looking for something you don’t see every day, the ones from Havid Nagan Classic are certainly worth looking.
Havid Nagan Classic One Pricing and Availability
Havid Nagan Classic One is available directly from Havid Nagan. Price: USD 9,000
Brand Havid Nagan Model Classic One Case Dimensions 38mm(d)x9mm(T)Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistance 50m Crystal Crystal Front and Back Dial Ivory Texture Center, Black Guilloche Base Plate, Sapphire Ring
Black Texture Center, Ivory Giroche Base Plate, Sapphire Ring Strap Leather or Textile, Stainless Steel Pin Buckle Movement AMT6600, Manual Winding, COSC Power Reserve 63 Hours Function Hours, Minutes, Seconds Stock Price $9,000USD
It was created in collaboration with Havid Nagan. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with the editorial policy.
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