At the end of 2023, Michiel Holtinlich showed us his first sketch of his new decorative clock in his studio in the heart of Delft, the Netherlands. In May 2024, he felt confident enough to finally officially unveil the watch. I hadn’t seen them in real life yet, so I recently visited the Holsinrich team again and was very excited to see a whole new decorative model well. Lex has already looked into the “entry-level” signature decorative clock using multi-level dials and dive lugs on CNC machines. Today I will focus mainly on the 3D printed Signature Lab series and the impressive Ornament Nouveau.
However, we’ll start with a clock that’s very similar to the signature decorations that Lex has considered. The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Delft Blue features a Grade 5 titanium case added to the same CNC with a dive design. But instead of frost metal and sapphire dials, the Delft Blue Edition has a white ceramic dial with blue padded Arabic numerals.
Holthinrichs Signature Delft Blue
In his studio, Michiel Holtinrich showed us how difficult it is to find a party that can offer thin, strong white ceramic dials. It took quite a few iterations to reach the final iteration, but the results are impressive. I was already looking at the clock in the photo. But in reality, I was even more excited. The combination of the dynamic case shape, latest manufacturing methods and shiny white dials with deep blue Breguet-inspired numbers work very well. Watches blend different eras of designs, and the contrast between them makes the results even better.
The Signature Delft Blue Edition has the same 38.5mm case as the signature decoration, with a thickness of 7.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 46mm. The rugs don’t hold their wrists accurately, even if they dive a lot, but their shape suggests they do. Inside, there is a top-grade Sellita SW300 automatic movement with a custom-made gold kilometer. Like the signature ornament model, the signature delft blue is part of the usual collection. For “regular” signature decoration models, it costs 3,750 euros (e.g. VAT), rather than 3,500 euros (Ex. VAT).
Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series
Next, step up to the Holthinrichs catalog with the Signature Lab series. This is a limited run of only 30, and unfortunately it’s already sold out completely. Still, the next series is not far from the previous series, so it’s a good idea to take a closer look. On paper, it has the same dimensions as the Signature Lab series’ signature ornament models, but its skeletonized lug gives it a more refined look. This model also comes with a Grade 5 titanium case with manual finish (rather than a CNC machine). So there is a great contrast between the hand-polished area and the raw part, which is the result of the printing process.
In addition to a more refined case, there is a solid metal that acts as a dial. It features an engraved sunburst pattern and copper patina. Finishing is a manual process. That is, each dial has a unique pattern and a shade of green. Like the dial, the modified Sellita SW300 movement rotor also features custom-made patina. This time, it is achieved by acidic heat treatment. The rotor also holds a tungsten weight that has been treated with a beautiful shade of shaved heat somewhere between blue and purple.
As mentioned above, the Holthinrichs Signature Lab series is already sold out. However, the team is already working on the next series.
Holthinrichs Orname Nouveau
Now, we reach the real Piace de Recistance. The watch also features a skeletonized dive lug. However, this time they don’t end up in caseback. Instead, notice how they bend upwards and continue all around the bezel. You can choose from stainless steel or titanium cases, but this is always the result of a combination of 3D printing, accurate CNC machining, and a wide range of manual finishes. Michiel showed me a few cases, but it’s not exactly the same as the others.
Not only is it an ornamental nouveau case, it is impressive. The same goes for that movement. Holthinrichs says this was the first Dutch production port. It was developed, constructed, finished and assembled in the Netherlands. To achieve this, the teams usually worked with third parties who manufacture high-precision medical devices. The main plate has a concave shape at both the top and bottom, but on the back there is a combination of brain waves, frosting, highly polished bevels and a large hand lattice surface.
In front, the main plate is covered with several bridges made of stainless steel. They hold a gear train, keyless work, and two barrels in place. Finally, you reach a 3D sapphire balance bridge called the Holsin Bridge. This was probably the most complicated part. All previous examples of other watch brands appeared to consist of several thin layers instead of one thick piece like this. The result is a nearly invisible balance bridge that allows for a peek into the center of the HW-M02’s manual winding movement.
I wear sunglasses outside
UV light can affect the lubricant inside, as the entire movement is skeletonized. So with the help of a third party, Holthinrichs developed the UV-sensitive Eclipse Dial. It works like my serengeti photochromic sunglasses. When the UV light hits the dial, it changes to a smoked black surface. After that, step inside and the dial slowly clears again. I don’t think this is the first time a watch has featured a Photochromic dial. But I think it is the first time that it has served such a noble cause.
Holthinrichs’ decorative Nouveau case is 39.5mm in diameter, 9.5mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Its movement operates at a frequency of 21,600VPH and features 24 gems. The two barrels have an 83-hour power reserve, and the watch is 50 meters resistant. When it comes to personalization, there are many options. For example, you can choose different colors for MainPlate, anodized chapter rings, Eclipse dials, and hands. You can also choose from a variety of levels of finishing and additional engravings. This increases prices and lead times.
Prices for Holthinichs Ornament Nouveau start at 55,000 euros (Ex. Vat) for stainless steel models and 60,000 euros (Ex. Vat) for titanium versions.
What do you think?
In real life, Holthinrichs watches are like miniature sculptures. Each passed through the hands of Holtin Rich artisans. It’s amazing to see what Michiel can achieve with his architectural background and design-driven approach. I think these watches are unique in many ways. And we can’t wait to visit the Atelier again to see what’s in place for the future.
In the comments below, let us know what you think of these Holthinrichs Ornament Watches.
