Buffy Acacia
The Tudor Black Bay collection should be one of the most popular retro-style watch series to date. Given the wealth of design in the 50s and 60s, Tudor has to pull from his historic connection to Rolex. That being said, they raised the price themselves. Whether you’re trying to save money or need something that’s not an obvious choice, there are alternatives to Tudor Black Bay catalogs, such as chronographs and GMT variations.
Timex Harborside Coast
Getting into the bottom edge of watchmaking requires a bit of caution as quality can vary widely between manufacturers and price ranges. So, trustworthy brand names are important because even if something goes wrong, they can at least provide a proper guarantee as a backup. The Timex Harboride Coast is actually a homage to the vintage Rolex Submariner, and is in the hands of Mercedes style time, but the vibrant crimson bezels and gold leaf details have a striking similarity to the old Tudor heritage Black Beylev. 7922R, or current M7941A1A0RU-0001. The 43mm stainless steel case may be less refined than its Tudor equivalents, but the 100-meter water-resistant, steel bracelet and reliable quartz movement make for a solid tool watch. Mineral glass crystals also have date magnifiers. Price: 119 US$
Seiko 5 Sports SRPE53
The bezelless look of the Tudor Black Bay 41 can have a slightly acquired taste, but if you get it, it’s covered in the Seiko 5 Sports Catalog. Case and dial for this ref. The SRPE53 is now direct contact with Discontin’s Seiko Skx divers, but unlike other “5kx” models, the rotating bezel has been changed to solid steel. It offers something much more casual, and even a bit more dressy fan-like. The 40mm diameter fits well on all kinds of wrists thanks to the length of the short 44.6mm lug-to-lug, and the 11.5mm thickness isn’t bad at all in an automatic watch with a 100m water resistant swim. The Calibre 4R36 is displayed via the Hardlex Caseback and offers a 41-hour power reserve beat at 21,600 VPH. Price: 295 US$
Lorier Neptune
Now in its fourth iteration, Lorien Neptune was designed with the late 1950s in mind, leading to gold leaf details, an oversized crown and tall dome crystals. Lumed Bezel looks like a Bakelite, but since it is actually part of acrylic, there is no need to worry about cracking. Seeing Lorier as a micro-brand, Neptune has been polished over generations to match the tastes of fans as closely as possible. Equipped with the Miyota 9000 series movement, there is a date or no date option housed in a water-resistant 39mm steel case up to 200 meters. Price: 499 US$
Christopher Ward C65 Aquitaine GMT
The Black Bay 58 GMT is almost a fan favorite over the BB58 itself, and it’s not easy to find a replacement without resorting to a straight homage. Christopher Ward’s C65 Aquitaine GMT is objectively gorgeous with a creamy room that swims in vintage charm and a shiny ceramic bezel. The Sellita SW330-2 is an incredible movement for watches at this price range, and GMT complications allow this 200m dive watch with a thickness of 12.7mm. It also wears well due to the length of the lug from the 46.68mm lug tombling a diameter of 42mm. The red pop on the GMT hand is the perfect final touch linked to the red on GMT printing. Price: USD 1,610
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Singer Inter.Bezel
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono has a very specific look that most brands don’t touch. It’s also a diving watch, but is it a very sporty racing chronograph that is drenched in a vintage flavour? It’s a bit of a strange ball and it can find a clear alternative. But Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Singer Inter.Bezel is approaching. The dial is based on the singer-created archive Nivada Grenchen Reference (which dialed the still-famous “Exotic” or “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona), as you can see from the Lollipop index on Twin-Register Subdials. The panda dial drills holes in its 60s lace look, while the aluminum bezel offers fantastic contrast. The model also comes with Nivada Grenchen’s new tool-free interchangeable bezel system and five free bezels. It is water resistant to 100m and features a Landeron 70 automatic chronograph movement. Price: USD 1,975, soon available from Time+Tide Shop
Rad Captain Cook 37mm
The Tudor Black Bay 54 was a welcome release for those with smaller wrists, but what about the alternative? A reissue of a genuine vintage watch, Rad Captain Cook is one of the best options of heritage, looks and value in the form of 37mm. Originally released in 1962, it was discontinued in 1968, and only about 8,000 models were produced in a 35.5mm case before it became obscure. The first reissue came out in 2017, and later became Rado’s flagship dive watch with a wide variety of designs. You can find some of the early reissues called Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook with a beautiful brown sunburst dial. Otherwise, the new 37mm model is available in green, blue, white, and various diamond index models. It also benefits from the 80-hour movement and its luxurious slop ceramic bezel. Price: 2,250 USD
Oris Diver Date
The Oris Divers 65 was one of the most popular vintage style divers for good reason, but recently it was given a facelift as an Oris Divers Date. Increased water resistance from 100 to 200m will ultimately earn a diver’s name more than mere aesthetic, despite always fully capturing the spirit of skin divers of the 1960s. Other recent changes include a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, a 39mm case diameter that matches current trends, and a sapphire case back that shows off the Sellita SW200-1 with a customized, conventional red orris-wrapped rotor. 41 hours of power resistance with a smooth 4Hz beat rate makes it a great everyday wearer. And the timeless style is a little more refined and versatile than Tudor Black Bay. Price: 2,700 US$
T+T Timeless Pick: Citizen Promaster “Fujitsubo”
If interest in Tudor Black Bay comes from a desire for a capable, mechanical tool watch, citizens can fill that void. There are many affordable Citizen Promaster watches to choose from, but the limited edition Citizen Promaster “fujitsubo” also applies to the incredible vintage-inspired aesthetic. It has a detailed elapsed time bezel with 200 meters water resistant, bright pips, and meets all ISO requirements for printing “divers” on the dial. The Sunburst Blue Dial is just as attractive as the blue ring surrounding the bezel insert, providing a point of difference with most divers. The automatic caliber 8204 provides a 40-hour power reserve cache cue at 21,600VPH along with a 1-day/date display. This reference is a limited edition of Promaster Range’s 35th Anniversary Day, selling for $1,195, but there are still discount units floating through third-party retailers.
