Michiel Holtinrich, the architect watch maker, created the name of himself and his brand in 2016 by introducing the world’s first watch in a 3D printed stainless steel case. . And, although it’s a sensual curve, the human touch made the watch sexy. The machine could only do that much. You will need the craftsmanship of the craftsman manual and you can complete them to make them look and feel. As you can imagine, this type of manufacturing is expensive and reflects prices. To allow more people to enjoy the fascinating shapes of his work, Michiel decided to use CNC processing to create a more affordable collection. I was able to try two versions of the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, the brand’s entry-level watch, at a price of 3,500 euros before tax.
The Netherlands is a country built and controlled by compromise. To make concessions is very Dutch. So, Dutch’s Miciel Holtinrich was probably not too upset when he had to adjust his production process to create watches at a more affordable price than before. He probably already imagined what the CNC machine watch of his design would look like. The Signature Ornament, a new entry-level watch, looks great and perfectly matches the Holthinrichs design code. Michiel may have compromised on manufacturing, but he did not do so in design. So, just like the more exclusive, 3D printed, bespoke ornaments that Thor wears on his beige Kaufman alligator strap, the distinctive ornament is not about compromising the watch’s brain.
Try two versions of Holthinrichs’ signature decorations
I think the correct word to describe Michiel Holthinrichs is “frenzy.” He was at Fratello headquarters to deliver and pick up some watches, and before I knew it, we were engaged in energetic conversations about all kinds of topics – yes, It’s just a car. Miciel is a self-taught car nut, a trained architect and deeply loves Pininfarina’s designs. The good thing is that his schooling, enthusiasm, and love look on his watch. Especially in his 3D printed watches, the raw portion of the case has a look that goes back to the education of a watchmaker. He gives a name for the modernist style of Horlogerie Brut. This is a hint from Le Corbusier’s Béton Brut. This concept is translated into plays about textures, material integrity, natural patina, and raw details derived directly from the manufacturing process. Manual finishes are deployed to provide strong contrast.
Dropping line
The smooth, swooping lines of signature decorations also lead to classic car aesthetics. This 38.5mm case is made from contrasting raw and brushed grade 5 titanium, including a 3 o’clock signed crown. The bezel and case band have an impressive concave surface. The 50m water-resistant case also comes in a thickness of 9.85mm, which includes double dommy sapphire crystal with a thickness of 2mm. So, which elements look like a car? Well, the car-inspired shape is more impressionistic than the literal translation, but the answer to the question lies in the lag. The dramatic flow and shape, and delicate three-dimensional details, cannot make you think of the clear fenders of cars dating back to the first century when Art Nouveau was all angry.
The flowing lug does not connect to the central body of the case. Rather, they connect to the underside of it and follow the shape of the case gracefully. A prominent and prominently proportional lug gives the watch the length of the lug from a 46mm lug. And like the case, the rug shows a nice mix of raw finish and brush finish.
Movement concessions
To keep Holthinrichs’ signature collection at a lower price than its previous pieces, the brand chose the robust top-grade Sellita SW300. This automatic movement may be a cost-effective choice, but Holthinrichs didn’t just put ready-made calibers on their signatures. Instead, the movement was customised in the form of a bespoke rotor that echoes a cantilever marker on the dial. The rotor shows five inner segments similar to the reflection of the sunrise. It is a contrasting refined bevel and brings it to life through the brushed finish on the top. This rotor also features a tungsten weight, with 18K gold plating matching the incredible art nouveau design language.
Layered dials deserve all the attention it can get
There are five dial variations of Holthinrichs signature decorations. The Delft Blue version has a ceramic dial, and the other four have a dial made from matte metal pieces. Choose from 14k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, or white or black rhodium. The Rose Gold Dial was freely available in a paired version with a green Epsom leather strap. The other had a white rhodium dial and was equipped with a cognac colored Epsom leather strap.
Each dial has a frosted metal base and a layer of double-dome sapphire crystal over it. This second layer features a printed Holthinrichs logo and minute markers. The third layer is a solid metal marker ring in which 12 sharp teeth act as time markers.
For ease of readability in the dark, the cantilever index was applied to Super Luminova C3. All this sounds three-dimensional and certainly does look like that. It’s not just the depth of the dial that creates a visual minispectacle for the dial, so it can also be called “architecture.” In fact, they are also responsible for the shape of the index and how these suspended objects reflect light.
Wearing a signature decoration from Holthinrichs
Let’s start by saying that the pink gold dial version with green straps is a wonderful and classy color combination that’s my favorite. But that doesn’t mean I didn’t appreciate anything that had a white rhodium dial. Both versions have a great presence in the 38.5mm case watch. The slightly longer but curved design makes the small watch perfectly fuse with your wrist. Second, the contrast between the curve and the much sharper, edgy elements of the three-dimensional dial creates tension and dynamism. Comfort comes from a lightweight titanium case and an Epsom leather strap that closes with a titanium pin buckle.
Is €3,500 (example: tax) a good price for Holthinrichs’ signature decoration? If you dismiss this watch based on the existence of the Sellita movement, you come to a small amount of watches with well-thought, unique design and details that have been staring at it for years. The smooth, sculptural curves, striking angles, contrasting finishes and subtle colors convinced me. Is it Pininfarina on the wrist? No, it’s Holsinrich.
