There aren’t many vintage watches on my wish list. Some, I was lucky enough to find over the years. Others, I have moved out of metal and watched it. It changed my perspective on them. But a very few examples make my heart beat faster. It must be admitted that most of these models come from Angelus. Sadly, these are not seen frequently in the market anymore. So, every time someone appears, it gives hope to our small but enthusiastic community. There are still some gems. This is the story of my Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe, such a gem.
Please note that this article is not a collector’s guide. I would like to cover Chrono-Dataluxe in this context, but I still need to do some research. And unlike the others, I don’t want to state assumptions as fact when I’m unsure.
Google to rescue
Watch collectors, especially vintage enthusiasts, have a variety of tools to help you find the watch they want. The usual suspects monitor eBay, Chrono24, multiple auction sites, and forums. Until recently, the WatchRecon app was also a tool that acted as a search engine for the sales section of the Watch Forum. The website is open for several weeks, but iOS no longer supports the app. As a vintage guy, I used all these tools and then some. One thing I didn’t think would help with the hunt was the regular Google search. When you do your research, you often use Google image searches, but regular searches usually lead to many watches (Long Live SEO) sold at auctions or popular dealer sites.
Last Sunday evening in November, I Googled “Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe.” I do this from time to time and see if there have been any new posts I might have missed. And it was – an image from a German dealer’s website that I didn’t know much about. So I clicked on it and my chin fell. The watch I saw was available not only in pure white but also at a relatively reasonable price (due to its rarity). I should have been more excited, but over the years I’ve learned that so many things can be done badly while finding a watch and tying it on my wrist. Still, I decided to send you a short email asking about more information and of course availability.
Cross References and More Cross References
To my surprise, a day later I received a short but sincere reply from the dealer in the north. That means the watch is actually in stock and ready to ship anytime. While waiting for the answer (Monday was that dealer’s holiday – oh, predictions!), I sent the link to a small group of trustworthy collectors. I know my vintage Angelus watches, but it’s cheeky to me to say I’m an expert on all models (or even one!). In the meantime, I went to work and tried to dig as deep as possible into information about Chrono-Dataluxe. As always, my Bible was Angelus Collector’s Guide by my great friend Dr. Christophe Öhm-Kühnle. Once I was convinced that the watch was kosher, the details of the guide matched, and the collector’s friend was optimistic. There was one more thing I had to do. We negotiated the price.
The vintage market has been very soft these days and there is some wiggling room. I didn’t try to be rude as I knew how rare this watch was and I was pleased with the final price. Let me say I paid less on the bracelet than the new Tudor Black Bay. For me, it’s still a lot of money for vintage watches that I wear sporadically. But that’s crazy about this hobby. We buy watches that may not be able to get much wrist time. However, they fit into the collection as building blocks to the brand’s history that many may have forgotten. For me, Chrono-Dataluxe is the foundation of the vintage Angelus collection, not necessarily because of its rarity but complications.
Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe
During its heyday, Angelus produced a series of in-house calibers. The SF 21x family was the first family to have movements like 215 (chronograph), 216 (hours only), and 217 (chronograph and triple dates). In 1945, Angelus launched another line with a smaller caliber, the SF 25X. This line includes movements like the 250 (chronograph) and 252. Other models, like Angelus Tinkler and Medical, may be rarer than CDL, but there was no internal movement. For this reason, Chrono-Dataluxe is the rarest Angelus model with an internal caliber. And what a watch! The 25x movement is smaller than its predecessor, so the watch was smaller than its previous model. As a result, the CDL has a diameter of only 33mm, with 40.5mm from the tip of the lug to the tip of the lug. It is only 11.5mm thick thanks to its hand-winding movement.
Remember that the Chrono Duttlex came to the market around 1948, even when comparing it to vintage standards. That’s why I look at a petite watch. However, the beauty was not only in the movement, but also in the complications of the watch and the design of the dial. Chrono-Datoluxe offers a non-normal combination of days, dates, and months. Additionally, the 252 caliber is based on a 250, which also provides a chronograph function. In such a small case, there are many features. But to make things even more special, the 12 aperture gives a big date feature.
Contrary to normal date functions, large dates move the first and second digits of the date individually. This will appear to Senators Lange 1 or Glashütte Original. But this is Angelus…and we’re talking about 1948.
Quickly to get it
Let’s go back to trading. The money was coming, and the dealer communication was slow, but nothing had been raised with the red flag. Everything was said and done within a week, and by the following Monday, the clock was in my hands. And again, what kind of watch was (and still is)! It was breathtaking with perfect features, but as you can imagine, it’s a critical issue with a very complicated vintage watch. The day after I received my Chrono-Dataluxce, I last went to London with my 2024 4A pint and within a few weeks I went to Tokyo. The watch came with me everywhere and worked without any problems, ordered praise from fellow watch enthusiasts. Overall, my experience at the dealer was great and it was quick enough to get it. The Chrono-Datoluxe is fantastic and is a great companion to the 250 chronograph and the 255 Dato12.
Final thoughts
I plan to cover the history of the Chrono Dattorx in the future, and perhaps other models will be in the spotlight. For now, stand here as evidence of two things: a beautiful vintage watch and the fact that you don’t know where you found it. Open your eyes, look at your family and continue searching for that special piece. Perhaps it’s hidden in the stocks of a small German dealer in the north.
